Let me think out loud for a moment . You have a good brake on your rifle that does what it's designed to . So when you fire your beast every thing starts to move backward at mach 1 stops in a fraction of a second then starts to move forward in that same fraction of a second is that correct ? It takes one heck of a well built mechanical device to live that kind of a life . So then it also takes being put on your rifle as solid as it can be as well as being built as well as it can be . This is the place to find out how others mount their scopes and what scopes they think are what works best for them . As with any other products there are differing quality products designed for different applications , I don't want to use a Kia when I should be using a tank but then I don't want to use a tank when a Kia is what I need .
Scope that won't break on 300 win mag
- Thread starter Blackpowder72
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Ronald W Schaefer
Well-Known Member
Spend thousands if you must...My son and I shoot Viper Vortex 4-16X44 HS-T on Sendero .300 WM and my .300 Wby Mag MK V mounted via tally rings and bases and they work great--solid, great glass, reliable tracking & return to zero, super warranty, 30 mm tube and easy on the brain with custom turrets from Kenton industries. Total investment is about $860 with rings, base mounts and custom turrets. I also have safe full of Zeiss, Kahless and Leopold but experiencing a growing Viper Vortex collection--5 now.
Backcountry sports
Well-Known Member
I have 3 of those set ups all perfect great glass with kenton turrets haven't had any issues have 10 of vortex scope all perfect
Ronald W Schaefer
Well-Known Member
Nice, that's what Im sayin'...son turned me on to Vortex--I took a chance and have not looked back.
Army uses mark 4s, the seals use nightforce and the Marines use S&B nightforce TT
Creedmoor shooter
Well-Known Member
And also shoots from a lead sled
freddiej
Well-Known Member
DDWing, I used Leupold weaver bases and rings to mount the scopes. I even took the barrel off, enlarged the screw holes to 8-40 from 6-48. The scope mounting was rock solid. at that time I was going through scope mounting in Gunsmithing college in Lassen County California. The mounting was checked by my instructors and certified better than good. My instructors and I theorized I must have gotten some very bad/cheaply built scopes. I stretched out the LOP so it would not hammer my shoulder and take out the reticle in the scopes I put on the rifle. the rifle was very light weight. the scope and rifle combo was a bit under 6#. I tried putting weight in the stock butt and fore end. nothing worked. that rifle just wrecked scopes. The Weaver scope I put on it the last time was on it for 3 years then just gave up. I own another 2- 300 win mags ; they have not wrecked a scope yet. I can not explain it. that gun is gone from my life. BTW, Eric, my bench partner on the other side had a Savage 110 in 7MM-R/M that did the same thing. it wrecked scope too.
I shoot a lot, thankfully part of my job. I shoot everything, slugs, black powder, airguns, .17hmr-.375 H&H. in 12 years of doing this and using a lead sled on occasion I have never had a scope fail at the range. I am currently doing work with Meopta and I assure you their scopes are built tough and backed by a quality European manufacturer. Like always, you get what you pay for.
Haven't seen any explanation of the manner in which the said scope's break, ( shattered glass, caps fly off, etc). So this is a guess, A guess ! I have a hunting pal who owned a Savage 110 that turned up with a crack across the rear tang ahead of the guard screw. Now my friend has forearms like Popeye, and has never used a torque driver to tighten the guard screws. But I know he always tightened the rear screw first. ( we had a discussion on which should be tightened first the front or rear). My point is the action inletting system in that stock was misaligned. There was a "hump " under the receiver between the action screws. Tightening the screws "flexed" that tubular receiver ( I had a hard time believing that was possible) . This guy isn't a long range hunter, he uses peep sights in lieu of a scope and likes to stalk up deer. Caliber .308 win. So there was no scope to break. but the tang showed the stress.
So my guess , the inletting of this scope eating 300 win mag of the thread , is uneven and tightening or overtightening of action screws flexes the receiver , and transfers stress to the scope. ( pulls a scope ring out of plumb, most likely the rear). When that 300 win mag touches off, the scope can't take anymore .
Just a fork full.
So my guess , the inletting of this scope eating 300 win mag of the thread , is uneven and tightening or overtightening of action screws flexes the receiver , and transfers stress to the scope. ( pulls a scope ring out of plumb, most likely the rear). When that 300 win mag touches off, the scope can't take anymore .
Just a fork full.
I have gotten into the habit of bedding all my scope bases to the receiver. I use a simple approach of tightening the screws at the rear of the one piece base and bed the front of the base. Even with the best of bases, there is usually a gap( .005-.020"). I use 5 minute Devcon with Minwax paste was as a release agent. Can't imagine that amount of gap stressing the scope or receiver.......but whynot play it safe?
I also like to bed my 1 piece mounting bases but I generally check the base with the screws to see which one I want to bed first . On my 2 piece I like to use my lapping bar to make sure that the bases aren't tilted and then bed them clean up the holes and mount them after it cures .
Arkansasdad
Well-Known Member
If you buy Near 1 piece mounts you will not have to do this. Good shooting.
Backcountry sports
Well-Known Member
Nice looks like a cooper model 52
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