.308Win V. 6.5 Creedmore

[Shorty308]

I bought a Remington AAC 16.5" .308 for a new handy suppressor ready deer rifle. Turns out the rifle is a complet TURD and I will have to rebarrel it. My question is should I go with 6.5 Creedmore for a 600yd White tail/Mule deer set up? I want to keep the barrel length below 18". I know the .308 is performer in the killing department first hand. but how does the 6.5 stack up against it in the shorter barrel length?

 

[AZShooter]

I think you would loose performance on deer by going with the 6.5 creedmore with such a short barrel.

I would be inclined to keep the 308 and see if I could get it to shoot. How did you determine the 308 is a turd? If you could bore scope it and find a flaw you could get Remington to replace the barrel.

Otherwise what have you tried to get it to shoot? Lots of things to check with the rifle including proper action screw torque. Are you handloading for it?

If the rifle has issues and you rebarreled you could still have a poor shooting rifle.

 

[FEENIX]

I think you would loose performance on deer by going with the 6.5 creedmore with such a short barrel.

I would be inclined to keep the 308 and see if I could get it to shoot. How did you determine the 308 is a turd? If you could bore scope it and find a flaw you could get Remington to replace the barrel.

Otherwise what have you tried to get it to shoot? Lots of things to check with the rifle including proper action screw torque. Are you handloading for it?

If the rifle has issues and you rebarreled you could still have a poor shooting rifle.

+1!

 

[Shorty308]

I have gone over everything on the rifle 3 times over. It has to be a ****** barrel. It shoots to Remington spec 1.5-2.5" at 100yds so I doughbt I will get any help there. I don't realy want them touching it any way. Specs on the rifle: Manners MCST, epoxy bedded by me. I am competent in bedding rifles and have done many before. Wyatt's DBM, Kennfarrel 20 MOA rail also bedded. Barrel has been recrowned, xmark tuned and lightend by me 2.5 lbs. badger bolt knob, Mark 4 M5 ERT 6-20x50mm in Kennfarrel rings. I checked the scope and rings on another rifle, has no issues printing 1/2 MOA on that rifle... So the scope is good. Action screws are torqued to spec played around with that too. The rifle has also gone through a proper barrel break in procedure, around 260 rds down the tube now. I do not reload so factory ammo is all that has been shot. FGMM 168/175, Hornaday 168 amax/178 BTHP/super performance, HSM 178 amax/168 Berger, South West ammo 178 amax, Black Hills 168/175 SMK. All between 1.5-2.5 MOA.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Sometimes something as simple as recrowning the barrel can help...

Not saying that's what it is, but it could be. Without looking at the rifle, it's almost impossible to guess.

 

[AZShooter]

Oops Mudrunner:

"I have gone over everything on the rifle 3 times over. It has to be a ****** barrel. It shoots to Remington spec 1.5-2.5" at 100yds so I doughbt I will get any help there. I don't realy want them touching it any way. Specs on the rifle: Manners MCST, epoxy bedded by me. I am competent in bedding rifles and have done many before. Wyatt's DBM, Kennfarrel 20 MOA rail also bedded.

Barrel has been recrowned, (hidden right in the middle)

xmark tuned and lightend by me 2.5 lbs. badger bolt knob, Mark 4 M5 ERT 6-20x50mm in Kennfarrel rings. I checked the scope and rings on another rifle, has no issues printing 1/2 MOA on that rifle... So the scope is good. Action screws are torqued to spec played around with that too. The rifle has also gone through a proper barrel break in procedure, around 260 rds down the tube now. I do not reload so factory ammo is all that has been shot. FGMM 168/175, Hornaday 168 amax/178 BTHP/super performance, HSM 178 amax/168 Berger, South West ammo 178 amax, Black Hills 168/175 SMK. All between 1.5-2.5 MOA."

Well Shorty308 it does sound like you have an issue. Too bad you cannot try some handloads.

I wish you the best with your new barrel.

 

[Browninglover1]

Would a 6.5 Grendel be a more efficient option for that short of a barrel? That's what I would probably run if I was building a short 6.5.

 

[IXS]

gun)I have a 6.5 Creedmoor but I have never had a .308win before, I have always wanted one, but never got to it, so I can't really say who I think would be the best.

 

[MudRunner2005]

If you don't want to wait 6 months to get it back, pickup a Bartlein 5R .308 1:10 blank, and have a local smith true the action, fit and chamber the new barrel it for you. For $550-600 you could have a hell of a shooter. Or you could wait 6 months for Remington to email you back to tell you what you already know.

I hate to sound blunt about it, but I know I've been this route with my 700 .338 WinMag and debated and weighed all the options... Easiest and best option was to buy a new barrel off ebay in the chamber I was really wanting (7mm RM), and had my smith true it and put it together. Turned out to be the right choice. Took no time at the smiths and ended up saving me many a migraine even though it cost me money.

Sometimes its best just to cut your losses and figure out the best way to proceed forward. IMO, when it comes to bad barrels on rifles that cost less than $600 MSRP, sometimes it's best just to swallow your pride and open the checkbook.

My Browning 7mmRM I bought used, got about 100 rounds down range, barrel started wildly throwing shots. Had to eat that $600 and stick a new tube on it and pay the smith.

Bought a new Weatherby Accumark ($2,100 rifle)... Factory barrel started caving in. After years or stress and a complete pain in the butt, I finally had enough. Traded it back to the store I bought it from for a huge loss back before thanksgiving...

My examples are mearly to show that I do feel your pain, and have been through this myself on several occasions. I am not a well-off individual...But I do save for my hobbies. So I also understand the wanting to send it off for free perspective, too. I just don't think you'll like the outcome and it will probably end up just a waste of time. A new barrel and blueprinting has a much better chance of resolving your issue.

 

[Shorty308]

If you don't want to wait 6 months to get it back, pickup a Bartlein 5R .308 1:10 blank, and have a local smith true the action, fit and chamber the new barrel it for you. For $550-600 you could have a hell of a shooter. Or you could wait 6 months for Remington to email you back to tell you what you already know.

I hate to sound blunt about it, but I know I've been this route with my 700 .338 WinMag and debated and weighed all the options... Easiest and best option was to buy a new barrel off ebay in the chamber I was really wanting (7mm RM), and had my smith true it and put it together. Turned out to be the right choice. Took no time at the smiths and ended up saving me many a migraine even though it cost me money.

Sometimes its best just to cut your losses and figure out the best way to proceed forward. IMO, when it comes to bad barrels on rifles that cost less than $600 MSRP, sometimes it's best just to swallow your pride and open the checkbook.

My Browning 7mmRM I bought used, got about 100 rounds down range, barrel started wildly throwing shots. Had to eat that $600 and stick a new tube on it and pay the smith.

Bought a new Weatherby Accumark ($2,100 rifle)... Factory barrel started caving in. After years or stress and a complete pain in the butt, I finally had enough. Traded it back to the store I bought it from for a huge loss back before thanksgiving...

My examples are mearly to show that I do feel your pain, and have been through this myself on several occasions. I am not a well-off individual...But I do save for my hobbies. So I also understand the wanting to send it off for free perspective, too. I just don't think you'll like the outcome and it will probably end up just a waste of time. A new barrel and blueprinting has a much better chance of resolving your issue.

Completely with ya on that one. It's definitely not going back to remington! That was my plan buy a nice Bartlein barrel chambered in either 6.5 or 308 and have the local smith true and blue print it. My real question was if the 6.5 Creedmore will give me an advantage of the 308 in a 17" ish barrel on deer sized game out to 600 yds.?

 

[RonS]

Oops Mudrunner:

"I have gone over everything on the rifle 3 times over. It has to be a ****** barrel. It shoots to Remington spec 1.5-2.5" at 100yds so I doughbt I will get any help there. I don't realy want them touching it any way. Specs on the rifle: Manners MCST, epoxy bedded by me. I am competent in bedding rifles and have done many before. Wyatt's DBM, Kennfarrel 20 MOA rail also bedded.

Barrel has been recrowned, (hidden right in the middle)

xmark tuned and lightend by me 2.5 lbs. badger bolt knob, Mark 4 M5 ERT 6-20x50mm in Kennfarrel rings. I checked the scope and rings on another rifle, has no issues printing 1/2 MOA on that rifle... So the scope is good. Action screws are torqued to spec played around with that too. The rifle has also gone through a proper barrel break in procedure, around 260 rds down the tube now. I do not reload so factory ammo is all that has been shot. FGMM 168/175, Hornaday 168 amax/178 BTHP/super performance, HSM 178 amax/168 Berger, South West ammo 178 amax, Black Hills 168/175 SMK. All between 1.5-2.5 MOA."

Well Shorty308 it does sound like you have an issue. Too bad you cannot try some handloads.

I wish you the best with your new barrel.

This sounds like all to common of an issue with the 700's. I went through the same thing. Bought a 243 varmint hoping to develop it into an F Class rifle two years ago. It shot 2.5 MOA with factory ammo out of the box. The question that went through my head was, what kind of varmints do they expect you to hunt with this? Wild horses at a limit of 200 yards?

Over a period of 6 months I changed the stock, bedded it, replace the trigger with a Timney, lapped the barrel, reworked the crown and tried every combination of powder, bullet, charge and primer I could using Forester competition dies to reload with. Got it to shoot a little under 1 MOA with some loads. Not good enough for F Class. Sent a nasty email to Remington and they wanted to see the rifle. I sent it to them. Then sent it back with a note saying they lapped the barrel and a test target shot at 100 yards. The group in the test target was 1.5 MOA... Sent that piece of garbage down the road and I'll never buy another Remington rifle. Now I buy Savage and every rifle I've bought will shoot 1/2 MOA or better out of the box. 1/4 MOA in the case of my LRP 6.5 Creedmoor.

 

[Shorty308]

This sounds like all to common of an issue with the 700's. I went through the same thing. Bought a 243 varmint hoping to develop it into an F Class rifle two years ago. It shot 2.5 MOA with factory ammo out of the box. The question that went through my head was, what kind of varmints do they expect you to hunt with this? Wild horses at a limit of 200 yards?

Over a period of 6 months I changed the stock, bedded it, replace the trigger with a Timney, lapped the barrel, reworked the crown and tried every combination of powder, bullet, charge and primer I could using Forester competition dies to reload with. Got it to shoot a little under 1 MOA with some loads. Not good enough for F Class. Sent a nasty email to Remington and they wanted to see the rifle. I sent it to them. Then sent it back with a note saying they lapped the barrel and a test target shot at 100 yards. The group in the test target was 1.5 MOA... Sent that piece of garbage down the road and I'll never buy another Remington rifle. Now I buy Savage and every rifle I've bought will shoot 1/2 MOA or better out of the box 1/4 MOA in the case of my LRP 6.5 Creedmoor.

This is the first and only Remington rifle I have ever bought lesson learned. Should have stuck with Savage. I have 3 center fire Savage heavy barrels that do 3/4 MOA on a bad day. I will give Remington one thing their action is sooo much smoother and just all around better to the touch.

 

[Shorty308]

If you don't want to wait 6 months to get it back, pickup a Bartlein 5R .308 1:10 blank, and have a local smith true the action, fit and chamber the new barrel it for you. For $550-600 you could have a hell of a shooter. Or you could wait 6 months for Remington to email you back to tell you what you already know.

I hate to sound blunt about it, but I know I've been this route with my 700 .338 WinMag and debated and weighed all the options... Easiest and best option was to buy a new barrel off ebay in the chamber I was really wanting (7mm RM), and had my smith true it and put it together. Turned out to be the right choice. Took no time at the smiths and ended up saving me many a migraine even though it cost me money.

Sometimes its best just to cut your losses and figure out the best way to proceed forward. IMO, when it comes to bad barrels on rifles that cost less than $600 MSRP, sometimes it's best just to swallow your pride and open the checkbook.

My Browning 7mmRM I bought used, got about 100 rounds down range, barrel started wildly throwing shots. Had to eat that $600 and stick a new tube on it and pay the smith.

Bought a new Weatherby Accumark ($2,100 rifle)... Factory barrel started caving in. After years or stress and a complete pain in the butt, I finally had enough. Traded it back to the store I bought it from for a huge loss back before thanksgiving...

My examples are mearly to show that I do feel your pain, and have been through this myself on several occasions. I am not a well-off individual...But I do save for my hobbies. So I also understand the wanting to send it off for free perspective, too. I just don't think you'll like the outcome and it will probably end up just a waste of time. A new barrel and blueprinting has a much better chance of resolving your issue.

This was my exact plan I complety agree with you. There is no way the rifle is going back to Remington. I will find a high quality blank and have my local smith true and blueprint this rifle. I have heard all kinds of hype about the 6.5 Creedmore so my main question was would it be worth going with over the .308 for a 600yd deer rifle in a 17" ish barrel?

 

[IXS]

OK thanks for the advise I will have to check into this guy