RCBS, Hornady, Redding, or Forster Dies

I am using Redding Type S for my target gun without the expander ball and use an expander mandrel to set neck tension. I use a Redding comp seater.

For my 6.5 PRC I use a Forster FL sizer amd itnprodices very consistent runout and 2 thou neck tension. I use a Hornady seater with eldx stem and micrometer adjuster. It produces very good and consistent ammo.

I also have a hunting 6.5 CM that I uses a redding body die and Lee collet and it works well, too.

The Redding setup for my target gun is the most expensive consistent setup but I anneal and turn necks for it, too. The huntongbrigs I just anneal and trim as needed for brass prep.
 
I have a pair of 223s that I shoot for chucks and in one I use Lapua brass and in the other I use Starline. I bought a separate Redding Type S FL/bushing die for each because the brass cases require different bushings to set neck tension and I set the dies for each rifle to bump the shoulders 0.002. When I started reloading for a new 25-06 I settled on a set of RCBS Matchmaster dies to get started. It was impossible, for me anyway, to set up the seating die because it was not long enough to accommodate the long 25-06 case. I was able to send them back and waited for a set of Redding Type S dies to be avail for the 25. NICE dies. Great accuracy and very consistent MV with the right powder and primer combination. I'm sticking with the Redding dies.
 
I have found Foster sizing dies generally superior particularly when coupled with final mandrel on turned necks. Like Wilson seating dies and found them consistent and precise. Recently tried Mighty Armory sizing dies in .308 and .223 with very good results: less than .001 TIR.
 
What dies does everyone out there like? I own RCBS and Hornady, but not the other higher end ones. Anyone that has experience with both, any personal preferences? Are they worth the extra $? Looking for my long range hunting 300 win mag!
I've used RCBS for 49 years and I haven't been let down yet....but not to say that any of the others aren't good too....just haven't found a reason to try them.....RCBS parts are available almost EVERYWHERE....not just online....that's important to me! Just me!
 
I use a mix of dies and my last batch of 300wsm ammo gave me a .366" five shot 100 yard group and that was using standard unsorted 1x fired Winchester brass fired from the bench out of my 100% stock T3
I used a Redding body only sizing die to size and bump the shoulders .001-.0015" back then neck size using a Lee collet then a .307 mandrel from 21st century with thier die body.
Used a Forester competition MM BR bullet seating die
Since going to this die combination for my HP bolt rifles have enjoyed the highest level of consistent accuracy in my 25+ years of reloading for HP bolt rifles.
I have tried and own dies from RCBS Redding and Lee
The dies FOR ME that have made the biggest difference have been the combination of the Redding BOSD and the Lee Collet neck only sizing die and the Forrester CMMBR bullet seater.
I feel for reloading ammo for 100% factory bolt rifles like mine this is an excellent die selection.
Forgot to add I use my salt bath annealing kit to anneal after every firing
Usr to anndal after every 3rd firing now as it's so fast and easy to do I amneal every time now.
Haven't Chronographed in a long while as my tripod got destroyed and haven't found one I like well enough to buy so I really need to Chronograph my loads to confirm their actual consistency.
 
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My early experience was primarily limited to RCBS, beginning 45 years back. The first set were for a .264 Win Mag I had built in 1972. Those dies are gone, but I still have the rifle. It remains in pristine condition, with its original Douglas air-gaged barrel, and shoots 1 moa if I do my part. (shown below with the Nightforce scope). Along the way I switched to Redding dies and have been very happy with them. And I did have one set of custom dies made by Hornady for a .450 Alaskan project rifle. During all of that time, I used reloading to identify a load that my rifles liked, and stuck with it. I was not inclined to try endless combinations of many bullets, each with several powders.
I am now 74 yrs old, and assembling what likely be my last project rifle, chambered for the .300 Norma. For that one I will be using Whidden dies, and will decide during the next week whether to use their fully custom dies, since they also have an 'off-the-shelf' version of their .300 Norma dies. Whichever version I chose, they will include a micrometer adjustable seater, and bushing sizer so I can control neck tension.
By the way, I read most of the posts in this thread, and would make just one comment: I have found reading to be easier, more informative, and quicker when what was written included punctuation and capital letters. So when an author does not believe that what they have to say deserves the small amount of extra time necessary to include punctuation or capital letters to divide their message into proper sentences . . . then I do not believe it deserves the extra time it takes to read and discern the content of their message.
 

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What dies does everyone out there like? I own RCBS and Hornady, but not the other higher end ones. Anyone that has experience with both, any personal preferences? Are they worth the extra $? Looking for my long range hunting 300 win mag!
I have a set of RCBS Competition in 300 win mag, and Redding master hunting dies in 338 win mag, really like these sets, still use my lee neck sizer for my 300 win mag. These two are my best dies I own. Started off using Lee dies( had my LEE full length sizing die break, which is why I upgraded. I still use the Lee dies for pistol and some other calibers. But now that I have more funds I would recommend the Redding or the higher grade RCBS. I have not tried the Hornady sets.
 
For hunting and long distance precision my choice will now always be Whidden. I'm not sure I have seen better quality or have had better service.
I do own several mentioned above and they are great, I just think Whidden is better.
 
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I buy Forster honed neck BR dies and have the expanders modified or make new one's. I know not everyone can do this, but you can order the size you want from Forster.
I find how a neck is worked and how the bullets are seated are the most important factor to accuracy.
I mostly use Redding comp seaters, but have a few Forster one's, you just can't use heavily compressed charges with the Forster.

Cheers.

I have tried to order honed dies directly from Forster and they told me no, I had to send in a die i owned and they would hone it. Is there some certain way you order them?
 
I have tried to order honed dies directly from Forster and they told me no, I had to send in a die i owned and they would hone it. Is there some certain way you order them?
 
My early experience was primarily limited to RCBS, beginning 45 years back. The first set were for a .264 Win Mag I had built in 1972. Those dies are gone, but I still have the rifle. It remains in pristine condition, with its original Douglas air-gaged barrel, and shoots 1 moa if I do my part. (shown below with the Nightforce scope). Along the way I switched to Redding dies and have been very happy with them. And I did have one set of custom dies made by Hornady for a .450 Alaskan project rifle. During all of that time, I used reloading to identify a load that my rifles liked, and stuck with it. I was not inclined to try endless combinations of many bullets, each with several powders.
I am now 74 yrs old, and assembling what likely be my last project rifle, chambered for the .300 Norma. For that one I will be using Whidden dies, and will decide during the next week whether to use their fully custom dies, since they also have an 'off-the-shelf' version of their .300 Norma dies. Whichever version I chose, they will include a micrometer adjustable seater, and bushing sizer so I can control neck tension.
By the way, I read most of the posts in this thread, and would make just one comment: I have found reading to be easier, more informative, and quicker when what was written included punctuation and capital letters. So when an author does not believe that what they have to say deserves the small amount of extra time necessary to include punctuation or capital letters to divide their message into proper sentences . . . then I do not believe it deserves the extra time it takes to read and discern the content of their message.
Grammer seems to be a lost art! Great school system we have!
 
I have tried to order honed dies directly from Forster and they told me no, I had to send in a die i owned and they would hone it. Is there some certain way you order them?
You can buy them and wait straight from Forster, or buy them from Grafs etc and send them in for honing and wait. Either way you have to have them first and pay upfront for the honing service.
Due to COVID, I cannot get any sets sent OS because the courier they use wants $200+ for shipping. Not desperate enough to pay that.

Cheers.
 
Grammer seems to be a lost art! Great school system we have!
No intent to start a flame war, but not sure what the point here is?
I don't see grammar in the following guide.
Ten Rules of Written Communication
There's one thing that makes every relationship work: communication. It doesn't matter if that
1. Know what you want to say before you say it.
2. Keep it simple.
3. Use bullet points.
4. WIIFM.
Acronym: "What's In It For Me?"
5. Don't get bogged down.
6. Call to action.
7. Edit.
8. Spell check.
9. Take 5 before hitting send.
10. Follow up.
 
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