8mm Thread

Torque all your action screws to 45 inch-pounds if you have a wooden stock, and 65 inch-pounds if you have a synthetic stock with aluminum bed block (or aluminum pillars that are bedded).

Also, check your scope base screws, make sure they're properly torqued to manufacturer's specs, and make sure the rings and cap screws are properly torqued to spec. Also, make sure that scope is a proven scope that is not damaged.

Next, if all else checks out, and it's still having problems, I would look towards ammunition, and would start reloading for it. You can then tailor your loads for your rifle and will most likely bring that down to closer to MOA, and in some cases, better than MOA.

Thanks. A torque wrench is high on my list of things to get. Might order it today. Been putting it off for a while. It's a McMillan fiberglass stock. Not bedded. Nothing is torqued with a torque wrench, just torqued by my fairly inexperienced feel. Scope rings are tight. Scope bases came on the gun when I bought it. They felt tight so I didn't mess with them. (Probably been on there since the seventies, lol.) I just replaced the rings and scope. And the stock. Scope is Leupold VX-3 that I robbed off my 22-250, which is one of my more accurate rifles, with that scope.

I think I have everything to get started reloading, including RCBS 8mm Rem Mag die set, several flavors of 8mm bullets, and 1K Federal GM215M primers. Just need to get a bench set up (build one or reinforce a workbench that's already there). I've been shooting up Nosler factory ammo and saving brass.

:oops: I will admit that the barrel could probably use a good scrubbing with copper remover.
 
For scope rings and base, I strongly recommend a 1-piece picatinny rail setup, especially on large magnum cartridges. It adds some rigidity to the action, and allows those rings to really clamp down and stay in place and keep that scope from moving. It's a much stronger setup than the old Leupold dovetail mounts. I use EGW HD 20 MOA bases on all my rifles, and Seekins Precision 30mm Low rings on all my centerfire rifles.

Another tool I HIGHLY recommend getting is the Hornady COAL tool with the modified case gauges. They sell one for 8mm RemMag.

You will need both of these...

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/570611/hornady-lock-n-load-overall-length-gauge-bolt-action

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...ngth-gauge-modified-case-8mm-remington-magnum

Another good tool to have for your calipers is a comparator. It measures off the ogive of the bullet, which is MUCH more consistent than measuring to the tip of the bullet.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/3...ullet-comparator-complete-set-with-14-inserts

To find out if your gun will actually shoot good, I recommend finding the measured distance to the lands for your chamber, and then seating your bullets 0.015" less than that number with a book starting load charge of powder. Load up 10 rounds, and go shoot it, and then study the results. It won't be always be the best groups, but if your groups shrink down to 1.5" or less, then you know that you're on to somethings and that your current barrel is worth further testing. That way you don't waste alot of time money and headache on a bad barrel.
 
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Thanks. I usually use Leupold rings and bases, but this rifle came with Weaver rings and bases. I pulled off the see-through Weaver rings and put my scope on with some medium Weaver rings (since the bases were there and seemed fine) and called it good.

Might have to get a rail.

Seekins, huh? That's what I'm getting for my 6.5 SS that I'm having built now. Mostly because I think they'll look cool on the rail on my action. Another thing I was thinking of ordering today. I am putting together a shopping list, lol. Might have to add a set for the 8 mag.
 
I used to have a ton of 8mm rifles. Now I'm down to a 325wsm and a 1942 98k with zf41 scope.
I strongly considered a 325 WSM. Might still end up with one some day.

I wanted one rifle to cover everything in North America bigger and tougher than deer. I couldn't decide between a 300 Win Mag and a 338 Win Mag. Like Goldilocks, this one's too big, this one's too small, this 8mm is just right. Now I catch myself wanting a 325 WSM and an 8x68S and an 8mm Rem Mag and one or two 8mm wildcats. Then I slow down and think, "What happened to wanting ONE rifle for all this??" Life would have been much simpler if I just got a 300 WSM for the lower 48 and something bigger for Alaska (should I ever get to hunt Alaska). But no, I have to get hooked on eight millimeters. Every thread I see about a cool 338-something-or-other makes me think "I could neck that down to .323 . . . " :rolleyes:
 
......know that you're on to somethings and that your current barrel is worth further testing. That way you don't waste alot of time money and headache on a bad barrel..........

.......Good mounts, and rings, a good scope. Things that can be viewed as improving the rifle system, but continue with the rifle are good choices.

.......Cartridge specific reloading equipment is a good investment if you're committed to the cartridge. Meaning if you were to re-barrel would you still choose that cartridge, or would you prefer to go into with the options of changing things up.

.......Cleaning, tightening. etc. always good advice.

.......I don't know what you're end accuracy needs are, but I think you're close to that fast twist barrel, and maybe a cartridge that fully exploits the 8mm bullets available today.
 
On Kenny Jarretts website in the 323 Jarrett section of Kennys pet calibers he talks about rebarreling numerous Rem 700's in 8mm Mag that wouldn't shoot well. He suspects the bore and grooves were slightly oversized. Not saying that is it but something to consider.
 
.......Cartridge specific reloading equipment is a good investment if you're committed to the cartridge. Meaning if you were to re-barrel would you still choose that cartridge, or would you prefer to go into with the options of changing things up.

Fairly committed to 8mm, but not necessarily 8mm Rem Mag. Rebarrelling is being considered because I don't think the factory 24" barrel is long enough to get the potential out of that long cartridge. And the barrel is a bit ugly, IMO with a couple of screws plugging the holes where the factory front sight used to be. Craig Boddington has one with a 28" barrel that he loves. I might split the difference and get 26-27" if I change. A little more weight out front was something I thought I might need, so I was considering a slightly heavier profile, but with the new McMillan stock with LimbSaver recoil pad, I'm no longer too concerned about recoil. IF I rebarrel, it'll either be to the same 8mm Rem Mag, or possibly a 33 Nosler necked down to 8mm (with which my long action would leave a little extra room to seat bullets out long). But if I could get it to shoot MOA with this barrel, I'd probably leave it alone.
 
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On Kenny Jarretts website in the 323 Jarrett section of Kennys pet calibers he talks about rebarreling numerous Rem 700's in 8mm Mag that wouldn't shoot well. He suspects the bore and grooves were slightly oversized. Not saying that is it but something to consider.
And I've heard internet rumors of bad barrels on the first year or so of production of 8mm Rem Mags. I'm not sure when mine was made, but I'm starting to suspect the barrel.
 
I think a 308 Norma Mag necked up to an 8mm would be about as good as it gets for a hunting rifle.
 
.......Good mounts, and rings, a good scope. Things that can be viewed as improving the rifle system, but continue with the rifle are good choices.

.......Cartridge specific reloading equipment is a good investment if you're committed to the cartridge. Meaning if you were to re-barrel would you still choose that cartridge, or would you prefer to go into with the options of changing things up.

.......Cleaning, tightening. etc. always good advice.

.......I don't know what you're end accuracy needs are, but I think you're close to that fast twist barrel, and maybe a cartridge that fully exploits the 8mm bullets available today.
The only cartridge specific investment I mentioned is the $6.29 case gauge... Other than that, all of that equipment can be used for every other gun he owns...
 
I think a 308 Norma Mag necked up to an 8mm would be about as good as it gets for a hunting rifle.
When I first started looking at 8mm, I was considering necking a 338 Win Mag down to .323. That would be very similar. Thought I really wouldn't see any significant improvement over a 325 WSM. Really thought the 8mm Rem Mag was slightly overkill. (And I'm splitting hairs, because there's not that much difference in velocity between any of those.) 8x68S Schuller would be just about perfect, but it was just about ungettable in the U.S. (Now brass seems to be becoming more available, so that's a possibility.) I drew up some designs I really like for a wildcat based on necking down a 375 Ruger and shortening it just a bit. That would be a pain in the butt, where necking down a 33 Nosler would be easy.

My original target:
wildcat.jpg
 

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