School me on the 338 Edge...

I've done some research on the cartridge, but I can't seem to nail down some specifics...

What are the majority of shooters using for brass? Reformed 300 RUM brass, or new Bertram brass?
Is it a pain to reform 300 RUM brass? Cuz I have a pile of it...
What's the "best" barrel length, and twist rate?
The 300 grain bullet seems to be the "go-to" bullet...correct?
How about reloading dies? Use re-machined 300 RUM dies, or custom made dies?

Sorry about the newb questions

Thanks

Tagging in. I am converting my 300 RUM to a 338 Edge this winter. I have 300 RUM Norma brass, 30" Rock Creek 1-10 twist. Hoping to shoot the 285 gr ELD-M. I also would like to know if the Bertram brass is worthwhile over the Norma?

easier size neck up than down no issue. bought into 300 ultra early 2000's when it was cheap bought discontinued Remington ammo couples years ago along with collecting online. Redding dies sucks my needs to be polished and doesnt size the neck. So I use hornady 338 neck sizing die works great bump shoulder back with redding. RP Brass is ok but don't expect 3000 fps 300 grainer load more than few times primer pockets go out (+p 30" ). 285 little data that I have 30-50 fps faster than 300 sierra . RL33 make me hit over 3000fps h1000 2980 sierra 300g with 6-grove 30" +P mcgowen. Next barrel would like to find 3r or 5r still keep it single shot. Be Careful with 3/8 ar500 it will bend it out to 800 while

Touch base with Defensive Edge. They are sponsors here and they are the pioneers of the 338 edge. Very helpful and plenty of knowledge.

http://www.defensiveedge.net/

Earnhardt said:

Is it a pain to reform 300 RUM brass? Cuz I have a pile of it...

Click to expand...

It's easy and easier if you anneal.

I anneal after every firing.

Many say R-P brass doesn't last but I'm not a hot rod loader so I'm at 5. Truth that on the R-P brass it is the primer pockets that go. Other brass is "better" but at $1 per per shell cost/benefit is pretty good.

After going through all this my process is simple.

A series of expanders, going up ~.010 each pass. Anneal after 2 passes. The last pass to .339 inside diameter.

Neck turn, just skim to smooth out the little bit of shoulder at the bottom of the neck. You are looking for .015 to .0155 neck thickness.

Neck size and good to go.

I use my Norma RUM brass for my 300 RUM Bench Rest but that rifle may be changing.

Thanks for the replies fellas!
How about the machining/parts upgrades on the gun when changing over from the 300 RUM to the 338 Edge?
Besides getting a new 338 barrel chambered, what other action mods are suggested or required to upgrade to the 338 Edge?
A thicker recoil lug?
How about scope mount screws? Can a guy keep the standard 6-48 screws for the scope mount, or is it advised to drill and tap, and upgrade to a 8-40 screw/base combo, due to increased recoil?

I use Weatherby actions with EGW scope rails. Changed nothing else.

Not sure of 6-48s for a rail but bed it or locktite it. As in locktite the surfaces.

If you're going to get an Edge, get the +P version.

Mudrunner, with the +P version are your extending the OAL of the cartridge, not allowing the bullets to fit into the magazine anymore ? And basically turning the gun into a single shot.
Thanks

Earnhardt said:

Mudrunner, with the +P version are your extending the OAL of the cartridge, not allowing the bullets to fit into the magazine anymore ? And basically turning the gun into a single shot.
Thanks

Click to expand...

That depends on your rifle, and how you've got it setup... But the +P is the throat design of the chamber, not the cartridge itself. The cartridge is still the .338 Edge, the chamber is .338 Edge +P.

Here's some reading on it...

http://www.defensiveedge.net/index.php/338-edge-p

The Edge is an astonishing cartridge even without the +P. I'm running a full house load of 91.5g of H1000 in Norma brass with a 300 EH at 2855 fps. The brass is holding up great.

6-48 base screws have held up fine on my EDGE, be sure and use lock tite. I've been using Rem brass it's tougher than Norma but will require more prep and sorting. I'm now using Bertram, I have had it for a while now but been busy with other rifles. I did load up one piece with a top end load shot and resized it 7 times and stopped there because I ran out of time, that piece is sized again and ready to load without any issues. It is more expensive but worth it to me.

As for the comment on 300 gr pills going through 3/8 ar-500 out to 800. I have had a different experience, and have not had issues shooting 3/8 ar-500 steel as close as 400 yds.

Earnhardt said:

I've done some research on the cartridge, but I can't seem to nail down some specifics...

What are the majority of shooters using for brass? Reformed 300 RUM brass, or new Bertram brass?
Is it a pain to reform 300 RUM brass? Cuz I have a pile of it...
What's the "best" barrel length, and twist rate?
The 300 grain bullet seems to be the "go-to" bullet...correct?
How about reloading dies? Use re-machined 300 RUM dies, or custom made dies?

Sorry about the newb questions

Thanks

Click to expand...

I use r-p brass on mine, my reamer is a longer throat but not stepped, I step up 300 rum in one pass but the brass I use was all new,I use a 300 rum fl S bushing redding with a .362 bushing gives me a .003 interference fit on just cleaned up necks, my loaded size is .365. I dont have to bump back every shot, when I check my case datum length I am usually about .001 under on a fired case but if it does get tight the 300 rum die does great..I also have a 300 rum and a 338 rum , I use the 338 rum comp seater to seat with and it does fine, I rarely have to adjust for concentricity. If I want to only neck size I use the 338 rum sizer and set it not to hit the shoulder. My 300 redding sizer didn't have to be reamed, I have read some guys have to but mine worked perfect. I use a 1-10, 30" Heart, for the 300 otm and I am running it at 2850 with h1000 (91.5) I also jam the lands .005. My brass lasts to where I dont even think about it any more. I have a bunch of 285 Amax bullets that I bought before they changed to the eld and the Amax will shoot very well to but I have had a bit of trouble with the eld's. I recently have got a couple 8#jugs of r33 but I haven't tried it yet in that chamber. I use a Nightforce +20 pic with a lug and 6-48 screws (locktighted) and it stays tight. the lug on my rifle is .250

If I had it to do over the only thing I would change is my reamer would have been a stepped throat (Bore-rider)or to my understanding(may be wrong) a +P. I recently did a 7mm Ultra rouge for the 195 and it is a stepped throat and it is a laser, both are hunting rifles so barrel life is a non factor to me here and if I do burn one it is just a Saturday with a blank at the lathe to twist out another.

BEEMAN said:

Tagging in. I am converting my 300 RUM to a 338 Edge this winter. I have 300 RUM Norma brass, 30" Rock Creek 1-10 twist. Hoping to shoot the 285 gr ELD-M. I also would like to know if the Bertram brass is worthwhile over the Norma?

Click to expand...

I did get some bertram brass to try but I necked it down to my 7mm Ultra rogue lol, when I sorted and checked volume it was almost identical to my rem brass. I have not spent any time with it yet shooting but loading it it is very nice brass. I have Nosler brass also but that brass holds 4 or 5 grains less volume so I just dont use it much, other than in an old 7mm rum sendero I shoot the 168 vld's thru. for some reason when I tried the ELD-Ms my rifle opened up a good bit and I wasnt able to tighten it up with seat depth changes, I havent tried the r33 yet but I will with the eld-m