School me on Suppressors?

[22Kreedmire]

Edited below

 

[22Kreedmire]

Rugged use a complete stellite baffle stack. Extremely strong and resistance to erosion. Yes The brake can act as a sacrificial baffle depending on the material of the baffles in the suppressor Look at thunder beasts new can. The brake has to be replaced half way thru the life of the can when doing the "surge cycles". Nobody runs stuff that hard.. but the brake still takes the brunt of the blast.

 

[rustyshackleford]

Why do you need a blast baffle we use stainless baffles in a 300rum

Shorter barrels or higher rate of fire

 

[Sikadog]

Why would you want a short barrel on a ultra velocity rifle, and for rapid fire just shoot with a brake and ear defenders.

 

[22Kreedmire]

Why would you want a short barrel on a ultra velocity rifle, and for rapid fire just shoot with a brake and ear defenders.

Because people like variety

 

[Tangent]

 

[rustyshackleford]

Why would you want a short barrel on a ultra velocity rifle, and for rapid fire just shoot with a brake and ear defenders.

Lol I didn't say it was smart. An inconel or stellite suppressor make a lot of sense for AR's. Titanium probably makes the most sense for bolt guns. Suppressors, like everything else, can be tools for a purpose or a tool for general use. Different feature sets different uses.

 

[Sikadog]

Sorry i forgot you shoot ARs we dont get the option over here.

 

[6.5-300 BEE]

My GEMTECH suppressors combined with the GEMTECH quick lock adapter give the brake + suppressor combination. However GEMTECH has two shortcomings. 1. The cans are not user disassembly enabled. 2. There is some "spitback" between the can and the quick lock, much like bolt rifle with a pierced primer (although not as violent). As soon as the ranges reopen, I'm trying a precise shim washer, w/ OD = to the can, between the quick lock and the barrel. Should block the blowback.

 

[JAYgs8163]

I run rugged surge suppressor. Rock solid QD Mount that literally can't come off And rock solid repeatability between off and on. I switch it between about 75% of my rifles and they are always zeroed where I had em .. I run 3 port brakes on some and the flash hider on some. If the brake won't time with 1ish shim I have my buddy install the brake on his lathe. Shooting 300wm. Most recoil no brake. Less recoil suppressor. Least recoil brake only.

Rugged makes some GOOD stuff. I almost bought the Razor but opted for my socom 300.

 

[22Kreedmire]

Rugged makes some GOOD stuff. I almost bought the Razor bought opted for my socom 300.

Yes they do. We have 4 in our group 2 surge and 2 razor. They are simply awesome.

 

[Blackhawk]

You could have just said that a properly oriented taper interface is preferred. Improperly machined trash will always be improperly machined trash. Don't like shims ? Get a better gunsmith. Don't like timing brakes? Get a better gunsmith. Don't like crappy gunsmiths ? Get a better gunsmith.

Perhaps you might consider a self timing muzzle brake such as the MBM brands ( Check out his videos and you might just change your mind.)
FYI MBM stands for Muzzle Brakes and More !
There are a number of Self Timed Muzzle Brakes on the market and to my knowledge all use just one crush washer which does not in fact need to be literally crushed. This is accomplished by using a two part brake system which requires very little tension to stay in time.
I will agree that on some brakes in order to keep them in time the use of a series of crush washers is truly a pain , however after watching his videos and seeing first hand for myself how well they work I now have one on my .338 Win Mag. and a second one on my .300 Win Mag. Additionally I have two more for my 6.5 Creedmoors. This makes four (4) in total all without any misalignment problems.
They are very easily timed and can be removed for a simple cleaning or placed on any firearm and retimed as long as the TPI is the same in less than a minute provided you have a good rifle vise like the Tifton and a handy armorers wrench for an AR or a decent 3/4" wrench.

 

[ajkellerusmc]

Direct Thread is the way to go. Better accuracy in my experience and some of the QD attachments become stuck by carbon buildup and then they are a pai to remove. DT is accurate and simple. Be sure to use some automotive silver antisieze compound on the threads and they screw on and off by hand easily.

 

[Kimber7man]

It appears some are solidly in each camp on the DT vs CB model of an Ultra 7.

I went the CB route solely based on the advice of Ray at TBAC. I have more rifles than suppressors and find it much easier to rockset the Compact Brake onto the threaded barrel. I am more secure in knowing that I'm not screwing a DT suppressor on and off the muzzle threads each time I shoot the rifle. Reduces the somewhat minuscule risk that I'd bugger up a muzzle thread if something went wrong.

I can't say which way is better for you - mainly a matter of personal preference I guess.