School me on the 338 Edge...

Gents - I've been wanting to go with a 338 Edge or 338 RUM for a while now. What seems to be the best twist rate and contour? It seems the 1:10 handles up to the 300's. I'd like to be able to run anything from 225-300, but would primarily focus on heavier projectiles.

Thanks!
 
Just wanted to give you guys a heads up that we have added 338 EDGE to our product line up. We have been focused on supplying some of the best-known ammunition manufacturers with cases bearing their headstamps. Now we are expanding our operations to include direct to consumer as well as distributor network sales of our own ADG branded cases. 338 EDGE was a great fit for us as we already had been working on the RUM family as part of new calibers for 2017. For more info you can contact us at [email protected]

ADG Brass,

You don't have the price posted on your website.

On GunBroker you have a Buy it Now auction for 338 RUM brass

$99 for 40 pieces. Or $2.47/piece, plus shipping.

Is that what your 338 Edge brass price is?
 
ADG Brass,

You don't have the price posted on your website.

On GunBroker you have a Buy it Now auction for 338 RUM brass

$99 for 40 pieces. Or $2.47/piece, plus shipping.

Is that what your 338 Edge brass price is?

There are some different options regarding pricing, PM sent.
 
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Gents - I've been wanting to go with a 338 Edge or 338 RUM for a while now. What seems to be the best twist rate and contour? It seems the 1:10 handles up to the 300's. I'd like to be able to run anything from 225-300, but would primarily focus on heavier projectiles.

Thanks!
1-10 is what I use with heavy varmint contours :)
 
OK, newb questions here...
I'm using a Hornady OAL gauge with a 300 RUM case that I sized up to 338. (338 Edge)
With any of the 3 bullets I have, I put the bullet in the Hornady OAL case, then I push the bullet up and into the lands, and stop when I feel resistance.
Then I subtract the length of the rifling impression left on the bullet, and that's the COAL for that particular bullet in my chamber, with zero jump to the lands using this method?
Almost every time I push the bullet up into the rifling, I'm leaving very short rifling impressions on the bullet. This is normal right?
Thanks
 
Don't push into the lands, just push to just touching lands.
That will give you your coal.
The more important measurement is the ogive measurement. That will be what you base your load development on. How far off the lands you load the bullet, and the most accurate way of knowing that is knowing what the ogive measurement is where the bullet touches the lands.
 
trueblue, you're right.
I think what was happening was that the bullet was a little off center in the OAL gauge, and it was dragging in the rifling on one side and not the other. And it was leaving marks making me think I was jamming the bullet into the lands.
Thanks
 
I use r-p brass on mine, my reamer is a longer throat but not stepped, I step up 300 rum in one pass but the brass I use was all new,I use a 300 rum fl S bushing redding with a .362 bushing gives me a .003 interference fit on just cleaned up necks, my loaded size is .365. I dont have to bump back every shot, when I check my case datum length I am usually about .001 under on a fired case but if it does get tight the 300 rum die does great..I also have a 300 rum and a 338 rum , I use the 338 rum comp seater to seat with and it does fine, I rarely have to adjust for concentricity. If I want to only neck size I use the 338 rum sizer and set it not to hit the shoulder. My 300 redding sizer didn't have to be reamed, I have read some guys have to but mine worked perfect. I use a 1-10, 30" Heart, for the 300 otm and I am running it at 2850 with h1000 (91.5) I also jam the lands .005. My brass lasts to where I dont even think about it any more. I have a bunch of 285 Amax bullets that I bought before they changed to the eld and the Amax will shoot very well to but I have had a bit of trouble with the eld's. I recently have got a couple 8#jugs of r33 but I haven't tried it yet in that chamber. I use a Nightforce +20 pic with a lug and 6-48 screws (locktighted) and it stays tight. the lug on my rifle is .250

If I had it to do over the only thing I would change is my reamer would have been a stepped throat (Bore-rider)or to my understanding(may be wrong) a +P. I recently did a 7mm Ultra rouge for the 195 and it is a stepped throat and it is a laser, both are hunting rifles so barrel life is a non factor to me here and if I do burn one it is just a Saturday with a blank at the lathe to twist out another.

twomore, what kind of troubles did you have with the 285 ELD?
The previous owner has load set up for the 300 OTMs, and I'm going to ry the Hornady 285 ELDs as a another load.
Did you keep the powder and load the same with the 285's, as your 300's?...91.5 grains of H1000?
Thanks
 
twomore, what kind of troubles did you have with the 285 ELD?
The previous owner has load set up for the 300 OTMs, and I'm going to ry the Hornady 285 ELDs as a another load.
Did you keep the powder and load the same with the 285's, as your 300's?...91.5 grains of H1000?
Thanks
I did use the same load, I use it on the amax 285 and it shoots lights out I did try a few different seat depths but didnt help much ,they still shot just under 1 moa but both the berger and amax shoot .3 in that rifle . I didnt spend much time with them probably could find the sweet spot like i did with the otms
 
I did use the same load, I use it on the amax 285 and it shoots lights out I did try a few different seat depths but didnt help much ,they still shot just under 1 moa but both the berger and amax shoot .3 in that rifle . I didnt spend much time with them probably could find the sweet spot like i did with the otms
Could have been the brand new bullet to ,my lot was one of the first. They just seemed to not go to sleep as quik , like i said the amax sure flies good , i bought plenty of them when i heard they were going to discontinue them
 
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