small copper shavings when seating bullet, what is going on? (6.5prc)

[Toolhand]

I had the same problem when using an older style chamfering tool. Changed to a k&m controlled depth chamfer and have had much better results. It's more expensive than other hand held chamfering tools but is well worth it in my opinion.

 

[redneckdan]

Is your chamfer smooth or does show signs of tool chatter? An irregular surface on the chamfer can gouge the bullet as its seated.

 

[koja]

Use a lyman M die,mandrel with a step to hold bullet.M dies come short and long bodies, I use a 270 mandrel in short body to do 6.8 spc.etc.I am lazy reloader nowadays.I use starline and lapua brass a lot.Both come trimmed to specs.I take brass out of the bag,load in progressive.M die in place of sizer.lee fc lightly on last station.Size on a single stage,clean,go again.No issues on 5.56,6.8,6.5 ,22-250, 8-10 loadings.

 

[bigedp51]

Another vote for the Lyman type "M" expander, you just bump the case mouth onto the second step. After brass spring back the case mouth will be approximately .001 larger than bullet diameter. This helps after wet tumbling even when using a VLD deburring tool. Meaning the case mouth will not scratch the bullets and cause the small brass flakes.

That being said I bought a sonic cleaner to clean my brass and prevent case mouth peening and eliminate the brass flakes. Below a .44 Special case after wet tumbling and you can see the dents and dings on the case mouth. And when these cases were expanded I would get fine brass flakes inside the case and on the expander.

Bottom line I got tired of having to trim and deburr the cases after each wet tumbling to prevent the brass flakes.

 

[GLTaylor]

Bigeclipse,
Just a thought. Sinclair sells 2 different mandrells. One is slightly tight for neck turning brass. The other is a true expander mandrel. They are only about .001 apart in diameter. I have ordered the wrong one before and the smaller mandrell can cause what you describe.

 

[25WSM]

See response 10 and 11. Chamfer a case mouth and then press it against your finger and twist. Then do the steel wool or scotch Brite. Smooth as a baby's butt when done. No more shaved brass and bullet will start to seat much easier. Plus a bullet pulled from a polished case mouth will have no lines running down the bearing surface. Try this first and I think you will be good.
Shep

 

[loaders_loft]

I got the idea from Varmint Al. Read all about his steel wool spinner here.

Varmint Al's Handloading/Reloading Page

 

[Almondgrower]

I polish the case mouth with extra fine steel wool. I have a little 1/2" copper cap full of steel wool, with a screw and nut in one of the stations of my RCBS trim mate prep center. A couple seconds spinning smooths out the case mouth completely.

Do you have a pic by chance ? I'd like to try it too ! Another question , I chamfer/debur on new cases till smooth but I also do it lightly after firing and resizing ..........now I'm thinking ......I looked at some fired resized cases and I can still see the chamfer inside , seams like removing brass each time for minimal gain maybe .......??? I know cases stretch threw firing and resizing and once trimmed you are mostly squaring it up again therefor needing to re chamfer . What do you guys do ? Do you chamfer after every fire and resize or periodically??

 

[Almondgrower]

I got it , I didn't see the varmint Al link

 

[25WSM]

I only chamfer after trimming.
Shep

 

[25WSM]

For polishing I started with a 1/2 nut driver chucked in my drill. Stuff it full of steel wool and press neck in center and spin the drill. Once you get a depression in the steel wool it gets easier to keep it centered.
Shep

 

[loaders_loft]

Correct. Only chamfer after trimming or on new brass. However I use the steel wool spinner every time.

 

[loaders_loft]

Pics

 

[Almondgrower]

Pics

Where do you get the 1/2" copper cups , I'd like to set that up on my case prep station also