Ruger precision rifle

Morning, I have M77V tang safety in 22-250,22-250AI,243,308,25-06 and 220swift.

the accuracy is outstanding in all except the 25-06 in new unfired.. Now days

u can put a timmey trigger on the tang safety models V rugers. the more u shoot
them the better

they shoot. very happy owner.

Thank U shoot shoot shoot

Just Country life member NRA and TSRAlightbulb


I have a M77V collection 220 swift 243, 22-250, 308, and a 6mm. All shoot outstanding.
The 243 is flatbolt that are rare and love hornaday ammo along with the 22-250
The 6mm is new in box yet and the bolt is still in the manila envelope yet.
 
morning, I handload for all of mine. the accuracy is superb. these V's have had

a extreme increase in price. i due not have the 6mm. i have a custom rem.

6mmAI. stone cold killer.

thank u

just country NRA-TSRA life member
 
I have one in 243. It's nice in that I picked up a set of Burris rings at the store, pulled a scope off another rifle and was shooting a complete rifle just that fast. I'm trying some Sierra 107's. I started with H-100V and it never really grouped well. I suspect the 4350 burn rate may be a little fast. Switched to H-4831 and it's doing fine. It shoots a half inch pretty easily with this combo. Slower powder behind a heavier bullet seems to be what it likes. I put a magnetospeed on the end of it and was doing some testing and got a 5 shot group with 4 more or less in one hole with the 5th being a flyer. I don't really count accuracy with a chronograph strapped to the end of the barrel though. I'm noticing this rifle will throw a flyer per group but haven't ruled out me being the cause. ES with H-4831 is about 50-75 fps but I'm still doing some testing. The ES tightened up a little when I got to .010" jump so I may try a little closer but won't jam the bullets even if it helps accuracy. I had some very old reloads that I decided to break in the barrel with. I pushed the bullets a little deeper into the case and went-a-shoot'in. They shot pretty well. I put some makeshift targets out to 200 and hit everything I was aiming at.

If I was looking for things I didn't like about it, I guess I'd say that the rifle is heavyish, the adjustable stock looks like it might want to hook and grab things, the key mod hand guard feels odd in my hand and the safety is hard if not impossible to reach in the prone with a loud detent click which cannot be quieted much even with two finger manipulation but all in all, those things are pretty much nothing and some of those things contribute to the performance of the rifle in other ways which makes those issues a compromise and not a problem. Oh... and it's black and black stands out about as badly as white. Other advertised features that I didn't mention all work acceptably well without a hitch. This here is a good serviceable rifle/tool that can shoot along side of a custom although should not be confused with the refinement of a full custom. Personally, I find that to much refinement results in lack of hard use or unreasonable regret when me and my gear take a header for some odd reason and I'm scraped and so is my gear. I've also noticed that in terms of performance, there is not a direct correlation in money spend to performance gained. You can spend more money and you'll probably get more for it but the fact that this rifle is being compared to full customs should not be overlooked. It's been a while since I've thought this but for a rifle, this is money well spent.
 
I feel like a lot of people are overlooking the chassis system of this rifle. You may be able to buy a gun that shoots as well for maybe less, but try putting it in a chassis.

I bought a tikka to build off of with a 7mm shillen and I am into it for 700. I still have to put a stock on it which minimum will run 100 to 600 for a traditional stock and if i wanted to run a chassis, 400 up to 3000 i believe some are running 1500 for most.

And this is a inline chassis system not just something that you bolt up to the bottom. And it takes AR furniture. You can almost buy this rifle and put a barrel on it for what JUST a chassis system will cost with similar features.

I will have one someday, anybody want to sell me the stock off of theirs? I think I would love it on my AR.
 
I will be shooting a Tac match at Core the end of September and hope to see at least one being ran there. I may end up with one down the road, but definitely not sold on them yet. gun)
 
The guys over on the Snipers hide are going crazy over the RPR. There is over 40 pages. They all are shooting great. One guy did put a custom barrel on one in a 6 Dasher and it is shooting one hole groups in the teens.
 
One thing I've noticed about this rifle is that accuracy degrades quite a bit during load development if I ignore cleaning the barrel. Last night, I ran about 40 patches of Hoppes #9 over a couple of hours and swabbed out all the powder fouling until the patches were mostly clean and then dry patched it thoroughly. I then ran a wet patch of Boretech Eliminator down the barrel and it came out nearly as black as the first wet patch when using the Hoppes. About 20 more patches of Boretech and all signs of the remaining powder and copper were out. Just saying the solvent you use makes a difference. Let the Boretech sit overnight and got quite a bit more gunk out the next morning. Cleaned chamber and bore thoroughly with dry patches. Next morning, 1/2" groups again.
 
foam or a brush will save your patch budget......

Was tearing the drawer apart looking for a brush but couldn't find one. Also, I can't seem to find a bore guide that fits that action so removing the patch at the end keeps things cleaner till I discover what guide fits.
 
Was tearing the drawer apart looking for a brush but couldn't find one. Also, I can't seem to find a bore guide that fits that action so removing the patch at the end keeps things cleaner till I discover what guide fits.

That brings up a question. How do you remove the bolt to clean it? Do you remove the stock?
 
my can came.

IMG_6792_zpsytov8oau.jpg
 
Oooooo! Great looking setup. Going to compete in PRS? What brand of can is that?

PATCHES & BRUSHES:
I'm now of the opinion that the only brush I will be using is one with plastic bristles.
I think brass brushes remove too much copper and screw up grouping for a while until more copper is deposited.

That said a good copper solvent cleaning is required maybe every 500 rounds or so. Then you start all over getting more copper laid down and groups tighten a bit.
 
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