Muzzle Brake Question, Ruger Precision Rifle

A muzzle brake is only as effective as the percentage of the propulsion gas that is turned 90 degrees to the bore axis. Anything less than 90 degrees will impart some thrust (ie, kick) to the gun. Therefore, any gas that leaves in the direction of the bullet travel will impart kick. However, that kick will be small if the annulus between the bullet and the brake exit hole is small.
 
We tested the effects of bullet-brake radial clearance on ballistics. In our application, we found that smaller clearances would more likely induce yaw on otherwise stable bullets.
The assumption is that asymmetric alignment between the bullet path and the brake's circular hole left an asymmetric layer of muzzle gases about the bullet. That would lend to an asymmetric force about the circumference of the bullet, which would presumably induce yaw.
We also found that increasing the distance between the muzzle and the brake hole reduced the likelihood and/or amplitude of yaw. Apparently, removing muzzle gases from the bullet at a point where the muzzle gases are less dense reduces the amount, if not the distribution, of asymmetric forces.
That said, in our application, we determined Goldilox zones for 30-cal (0.348"), 6.5mm (0.302"), and 6mm (0.281").
Please note that these "zones" presume alignment with machining tolerances common to many quality barrel manufacturers. Also, know that the "muzzle brake" hole in our device is much farther from the muzzle than a dedicated brake. Given that your brake is much closer to the muzzle, it would follow that a 0.331" hole on a high-quality brake installed on a properly prepared muzzle would be just about right for a 30-cal round.
If you're suspicious about the barrel/brake/caliber combination, use an alignment rod (Brownell's has them) to check concentricity. Punch holes at ~50 yards and 100 yards to check for yaw.

Interesting and thank you! That's some great info.

The 30-06 rifle is shooting decently with the Ruger brake installed. 17 shots today. "Decent" but not superb groups. Then again, the rifle has never shot superb groups. It has however filled a lot of tags. :)

Guy
 
I have built 2 brakes for my 458 WM and 45-70. My first one the diameter was too large, sorry too many years ago to remember how much overbore it was and it didn't work really well on the 458. My next one I built it with a 0.10 oversize and it worked great. I cut the first one off and made a thread protector out of it. I made the exact same mistake on the one for the 45-70 brake so I invested in a reamer to get the 0.10 over and it too worked.
Here's the one I made for my Marlin 45-70.

1653395263645.png
 
Last edited:
You, Sir, are correct; my BWAG is that is their cost-cutting measure. Instead of manufacturing 3 different MBs for 308 Win, 6.5 Creedmoor, and 243 Win. The ideal clearance for optimum performance is .020", as @jimbires noted. I have one of Jim See's blast tamer MB made for 7MM-.30 cal, but it is on a .30 cal rifle.
Another advantage for Ruger is that they then can't get the brakes mixed up on the production floor and ship a rifle with the wrong size brake on it. That could be really, really bad!
 
Thanks sable t, I left the muzzle brake job to my gunsmith since he's been putting them on for 20+ years but what I like is he explains the what's and why's on what's getting done. He mentioned the .020 and also importance of bore alignment. I will probably never attempt it myself but I do like to learn.
I sure appreciated muzzle breaks when I shot the 50 cal or Ma duece. Sure was FUN
 
On my 6.5 CM RPR I have a Gen. 1 Little Bastard muzzle Brake from American Precision Arms that has worked very well.

I chose the Little Bastard on a test of muzzle brakes on "Precision Rifle Blog" that said this brake was among the few had the least effect on accuracy and the most effect on reducing recoil.
 
Top