Ruger accuracy

[johnnyk]

chad44,
I started out with a Ruger M77 in .270 Win. years ago. To start with it shot 1" to 1.5" groups at 100yds with factory ammo. Good enough for even the smallest NC whitetail. Shortly after purchasing it I got in to reloading (or should I say "reloading got in to me!") and this brought the groups down to an average of 3/4 to 1". Then I had the action bedded, barrel floated and the trigger adjusted and that took the groups down to an average of 1/2" with my reloads. I killed tons of deer with this rifle. When I started getting the itch to shoot at longer ranges back in the late 80's I swapped it out for a heavy barreled Sendero.
These three items (bedding/barrel floated/trigger adjustment/swap) along with having the crown dressed up may bring the ole girl around. Not sure if trueing the action without spinning on a new barrel will do any good. I have no experience in this matter. If you decide to go with a new barrel also, now you're into new rifle prices.

The stock touching the barrel interrupts the barrel's harmonics (i.e. vibrations) which occur as the bullet passes through the barrel. With consistent loads (i.e., reloads) these harmonics are "repeatable" and contribute to consistent groups. Consistent loads can be developed even with the stock touching the barrel (it may take a while), however, if your stock swells from moisture or humidity or shrinks from an overly dry area, then the "sweet spot" load you've developed will likely go to crap. Not something you would want to happen on the "hunt of a lifetime". Best just to float the barrel and eliminate the possibility.
Bedding solidifies the barreled action to the platform and contributes to overall consistency. Done right, it is legit.

Hope this helps in your decisions. Let us know how it goes. JohnnyK.

 

[porkchop401]

I can't speak for the older rugers. but I have a ss 77hawkeye. that I sold that after a trigger,bedding job and. barrel float would not do better than 1"and 1/2" at a hundred with partitions speer deep curls and Sierra. Ayear later I had it back in a trade I tried 180 tsx and with a little load. development .75 groups are the norm with 3000fps.Man I am glad I got that rifle back.

 

[Tnwhip]

I bought my old 25-06 Ruger in 1978. I wanted a long range varmint and deer rifle to replace my Rem. 788 in 308. I got into reloading at the same time. I worked on the trigger and bedded the stock and floated the barrel. It would shoot Hornandy 75g hp and 100g sp around 1/2 to 3/4". After all these years the barrel finally gave up the accuracy. Two years ago I had my gunsmith buddy install a #7 Douglas barrel in 280 Ackley, I assumed he trued the action. I put it in a Boyds laminated stock. I had a little trouble working up loads for it and the barrel was copper fouling really bad. I lapped it and worked up a load with H1000 and she is a 1/2" gun again. My old gunsmith buddy loved Mausers and he said he liked the Rugers better than Remington. He passed away right after I got my barreled action back from him. He was a great friend and I learned a lot from him over the years. I miss him alot. He would be happy I got it to shooting good and I shot my longest shot on a deer at 573 yards across the bean field last year with it. I also have a Bicentential Ruger in 220 swift that my cousin bought back in 1976. I have heard Ruger use to put Douglas barrels on there rifles back then? We use to shoot crows with it across the bean fields. I bedded and floated the barrel on it. I have not shot it in several years but the last time I shot it for group it was still shooting 2" at 200 yards. Now I have acquired two Rem. 700 SPS Varmints, one in 22-250 and 308. They are nice rifles and both shot great right out of the box. The 308 has been put in a Bell and Carlson Carbelite stock and the 22-250 is still in the Rem. plastic stock. I have only shot about 40 rounds of the bulk Win.45hp in it but they shoot under 1". The Rugers are hard to find Accessories for, at least my old tang safety models. You just don't have many choices like you do with the Remingtons. I like my Remingtons but I still love my Rugers.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

I own an older ruger m77 in 243. It is totally stock and shoots minute of deer. I would like to make it a shooter. I have asked several people and the general saying is that most guys won't work on a ruger action. Is it necessary to blue print this or would swapping the barrel and stock be sufficient? I don't want to break the bank but is putting a high end barrel on an untrued action pointless?

If you're shooting an "older" factory rifle, don't expect miracles. It is what it is. The best accuracy i got out of my Tang Safety M77 7RM was about 3/4 MOA, which isn't bad considering it was a factory rifle. I burned the barrel out and was interested in re-barreling it and asked the question here in this thread...

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/ruger-m77-action-build-33427/index2.html

Bottom line is that the M77 just isn't the best action to do a build from or spend time and $$$ on.

If you really like your M77, go for it. I have spent a lot of time researching rifle actions and quite honestly, M77's are not near the top of the list. Mine is retired will likely stay retired. I've killed a lot of critters with it including a B&C Big Horn ram and I will hold on to it for sentimental reasons but no plans to give it an upgrade.

My smith actually likes M77's and when I asked him about the angled front action screw. He said, well, I re-driil and tap that out, which means you also have to modify the bottom metal and stock.

Whatever you decide to do, good luck and a good plan requires minimal luck.

 

[porkchop401]

I think Montana Rifleman is on the Mark there are just better actions to try and get super accuracy out of. I found a sweet spot in mine but it would not be a choice for a build. On the positive note the thing is super reliable in harsh conditions. Very popular in Alaska where folks carry there rifles year round in the bush .

 

[Tnwhip]

What is wrong with Ruger Actions? Why would it not be as accruacte if it was blueprinted? Cost ? What are the negatives?

 

[MontanaRifleman]

What is wrong with Ruger Actions? Why would it not be as accruacte if it was blueprinted? Cost ? What are the negatives?

The biggest issue is the angled front screw. It causes a lot of problems in a lot of Rugers. Most smiths redrill and tap the reciever to make the front screw perpendicular to the reciever. The recoil lug is integrated which is a good thing but not very beefy. The trigger sucks but you can get a Timney. The ring/mount system is proprietary and you are stuck with Ruger rings unless you get custom ones made at a large cost. The bolt release is bulky and not as easy to use as most other actions. The push feed and CRF bolts are good. Very few aftermarket accessories and stocks available.

 

[FEENIX]

The ring/mount system is proprietary and you are stuck with Ruger rings unless you get custom ones made at a large cost.

Mark,

Look at one of the links on my response #3, I used a Ruger-to-Weaver adapter by Burris to open up my options on rings.

Cheers!

Ed

 

[Tnwhip]

I drilled and tapped my reciever put a Picatinny rail on mine. Had to make a spacer to go under the back. They do make a Picatinny rail that clamps on reciever.

 

[MudRunner2005]

The biggest issue is the angled front screw. It causes a lot of problems in a lot of Rugers. Most smiths redrill and tap the reciever to make the front screw perpendicular to the reciever. The recoil lug is integrated which is a good thing but not very beefy. The trigger sucks but you can get a Timney. The ring/mount system is proprietary and you are stuck with Ruger rings unless you get custom ones made at a large cost. The bolt release is bulky and not as easy to use as most other actions. The push feed and CRF bolts are good. Very few aftermarket accessories and stocks available.

Mark, remember, EGW & Near Mfg. both make picatinny rails for the recievers. Only downside, is that you have to have your smith drill & tap the 4 holes for you. However, I think it would be worth the investment since you would be able to use whatever rings and scope you wanted to, after having it drilled & tapped. Just my opinion.

 

[Tnwhip]

If you're shooting an "older" factory rifle, don't expect miracles. It is what it is. The best accuracy i got out of my Tang Safety M77 7RM was about 3/4 MOA, which isn't bad considering it was a factory rifle. I burned the barrel out and was interested in re-barreling it and asked the question here in this thread...

Miracles do happen. They can be made to shoot.
This is what my old tang safety 220 swift 1976 bicentennial model will do after all these years. I reworked the trigger, and piller bedded the walnut stock and recrowned the barrel years ago back in the late 80s. Don't know the round count, We haven't shot it to death just used it on crows and coyote's. Always heard the Swifts were barrel burners and have been afraid the accuracy would leave it. But it is still going strong. I looked for my 280 ack targets but couldn't find them.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Whip, I had a bicentennial .220 Swift at one point in time, about 11 years ago. Traded a set of tires for it. Then traded it to a guy I worked with (at the outdoors store) for his custom Model 7 .22-250 the same day. I never did find out what he did with it. We both wound up screwing the other over on the deal, because both guns had shot-out barrels. Difference was, he KNEW his was, but I had never shot the .220, so I was unaware. He came back to work the next day, showed me a target, and it wouldn't group a pie-plate @ 100 yards. LOL I felt bad, till I went to shoot his .22-250 he traded me, and it was almost as bad. So I had it rebarreled to a .308 Win, and never looked back. Best thing I ever did for that rifle was rebarrel it. My smith is GOOD! That thing was shooting 1 hole groups @ 100 yards. I've never in my life seen a rifle that was more accurate than that one was.

 

[FEENIX]

Mark,

Look at one of the links on my response #3, I used a Ruger-to-Weaver adapter by Burris to open up my options on rings.

Cheers!

Ed

Another pix of the adapter ...

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Mark,

Look at one of the links on my response #3, I used a Ruger-to-Weaver adapter by Burris to open up my options on rings.

Cheers!

Ed

Ed,

Thanks for the links. Very interesting reading the threads on the subject. There are more options available than I though but most of them such as Near and Farrel are what I consider in the custom class and a little spendy compared to other common quality options. Also, they still leave those dirt collecting divots in the top of the receiver The question is, how many hoops and how much $$$ does one invest to make it work? When is it better to switch gears and invest in something a little more upgrade friendly? That was eventually my decision after A LOT of investigation and solicitation of opinions, which included smiths and a well know barrel maker.

Like I said, I may give my M77 a facelift someday because of its history with me, especially since my smith likes them (not Dave Young, my smith down here in Three Forks, Glen Demaray) I sure wouldn't go out and buy one for a donor.

BTW, sweet rifle in your Facelift thread. What did you do regarding bedding, pillars, angle front screw etc.?

Mark, remember, EGW & Near Mfg. both make picatinny rails for the recievers. Only downside, is that you have to have your smith drill & tap the 4 holes for you. However, I think it would be worth the investment since you would be able to use whatever rings and scope you wanted to, after having it drilled & tapped. Just my opinion.

Mud,

Didn't know that EGW made a rail for the M77. That said, I checked out their site and called them. The rail they sell is the standard and not the HD and they don't make a steel version. I might consider it for a lighter chambering... maybe a 22-250 or 243 or smaller. I'm not sure it would be worth the investment from a practical view. I would only do it because like I mentioned to FEENIX, the rifle's history with me. I find buying Howa/Vanguard actions much more practical as they need no more than a straight forward blueprint job of receiver and bolt. That said, anything longer than a Dakota case and I am going full custom. The Howa actions (and M77's) are a little too short for 300 WM cases and longer with long high BC bullets.

If you're shooting an "older" factory rifle, don't expect miracles. It is what it is. The best accuracy i got out of my Tang Safety M77 7RM was about 3/4 MOA, which isn't bad considering it was a factory rifle. I burned the barrel out and was interested in re-barreling it and asked the question here in this thread...

Miracles do happen. They can be made to shoot.
This is what my old tang safety 220 swift 1976 bicentennial model will do after all these years. I reworked the trigger, and piller bedded the walnut stock and recrowned the barrel years ago back in the late 80s. Don't know the round count, We haven't shot it to death just used it on crows and coyote's. Always heard the Swifts were barrel burners and have been afraid the accuracy would leave it. But it is still going strong. I looked for my 280 ack targets but couldn't find them.

You can hope for a miracle, but don't expect one. You can make anything shoot well if you put enough time and $$$ into it. Also, your lighter chamberings usually produce better groups. When you start climbing the cartridge food chain, things like recoil lugs, bedding and action screws become much more relevant.

How did you pillar bed it it and what did you do with the angled front action screw?

My honest advise to Chad is sell your Ruger and take the money and buy an old Howa or Vanguard at a gun show for about $200-$300 and go from there. You'll get a good shooter for less $$$ and effort and there will be nothing convoluted about it.... unless your are emotionally attached to this rifle.