Ruger #1 accuracy

[Radman]

I bought a heavy barrel 6mm Rem #1 on another forum.
The best load so far 3 shots into ~ 2.75" at a hundred yards. The next two shots were off the target. I complained to Ruger and sent the rifle in.
They sent it back - they were able to shoot three shots into 3/4" horizontally at 50 yards. No measure of vertical displacement.
No explanation, no comments, no offers were sent.
I imagine that I might be the 20th owner of the rifle as it was likely test fired and sold over and over.
I am proud owner of a 30 to 40 yard prairie dog rifle, wahoo.
I won't do what others have done with this rifle. I suppose re-barrel makes the most sense.
I would like to give Ruger the one finger salute.

Slightly different here but possibly further proving your point: I bought (what I call) a higher-end scope. It would NOT zero. Adjustments didn't correlate with hits. (I always tighten & glue everything) They said to send it back which I eagerly did! They "checked it out" and not only sent it back with a folded target sheet but called me expressing that there was nothing wrong with the scope.
Upon receiving it back it worked perfectly like it was supposed to! Now I didn't change ANYTHING so....the only conclusion I can draw is that they made repairs & wouldn't say so. JMO

 

[Varmiter71]

I saw an interesting no. 1 for sale.
Someone made one into a 20 gauge slug rifle

 

[Lenny Foffa]

I always wanted a Ruger #1. in 300 H and H , as was made as part of the Craig Bodington series. It was called the "Kudu Rifle" . I read a post about ALL, the things needed to make a #1 shoot into 1 MOA . I also understand the #1 purists do not like those modification as the detract for the originality of the rifle. No matter to, me, Accuracy and Precision are their own rewards. If I find a #1 Kudu , at a reasonable price, I'm getting it and off to the correct gunsmith it goes.

 

[HARPERC]

There are a lot of good points being made here. And, a lot of frustrations vented. I get that. I guess in addition to the undeniable beauty of a #1, I have an attraction to a rifle who's accuracy potential can be realized by applying some understanding of what is going on between the stock (both halves) and the barreled action. I'm not talking about additions and modifications or replacing parts. As stated in my previous post, it is more about fit. Where the wood needs to contact the metal and where it shouldn't. On the factory stock, both the buttstock and the forearm are inletted with a milling machine, to an average fit. Herein lies one of the most common issues with the #1, and why some shoot and some don't. You don't have to swap out too many stocks before you discover that the actions are not all the same size. On a bolt gun there is usually a recoil lug that is fairly predictable in size and bedding it is pretty straight forward. On the #1, there are several points on the action with more irregular shapes that are acting as the "recoil lug". It's important that these have the proper fit. I like a bedded fit on the milled vertical surface at the back of the action and the web between the top and bottom tang where the buttstock takedown bolt threads in. I like a few thousanths clearance at the back of the safety tang. Too much of the recoil transferred here will result in a cracked stock, especially on chamberings like the 458 Lott. On the forearm, I want the chamber section of the barrel to have a home it can settle into, so I will bed that section. But, one has to be careful that the barrel is not being influenced by another point of pressure during that operation. Surely, most of you have noticed that the main spring strut is welded unto the action. No way to have that come out the same every time. I want the forearm takedown screw to deflect the strut slightly as it's tightened, but I don't want the end of the strut to contact the wood, so I relieve that a little. This gives the strut a kind of dampening action without vibrating on the wood when the gun is fired.

These are some of the techniques I use to get those tough cases to shoot well. There are many others and many other approaches.

A very good post!

 

[catch 22]

My "forever rifle" is my stainless #1A in 6.5×55 (Lipsey's exclusive), it will shoot .5 moa with a 125 Patrition and either H4350 or RL-19. I wanted a stainless #1 since I saw one on the cover of a shooting magazine probably 30 years ago, such an elegant rifle (mine wears a Zeiss Conquest and has really nice wood).

 

[woodnut]

This may have been covered; but here's my 2 cents. Most likely, as others have said, the problem is in the forend. They are tricky to "adjust" as the rifle has an interesting way of attaching. My advice is to seek out a VERY qualified gunsmith who can bed it properly. I would say the one who put together my 17/222mag; but he's quit the business. He was smart enough to take a lot of time to let the new custom forend "age", (quit warping) to keep it from happening later. It worked ! This rifle has shot 2 (I didn't believe the 1st one) 1/2 " , 3 shot groups at 200 yards. Yes, I said 200 yards. So this is why I highly recommend a very qualified 'smith to work on the forend. You have a fine caliber and it is an accurate round. With the right bedding, your #1 should improve a lot.
Also, about cleaning it. The best way is using a bore snake. Probably it's been shot more than 20 times; so just start the snake cord into the barrel, pour some Ballistol down it and pull through. It's that simple. No need brush it as the snake has it. Once done, keep shooting til you think the accuracy is falling off. That can be a 100 or more shots. I love this method!

 

[sodakota]

I looked at their group again it was 7/8" at 50 yards for 3 shots. They seemed to be proud of their group. I'll never ever buy another Ruger.

 

[sodakota]

Life's to short to put up with that kind of accuracy.

 

[Nomosendero]

I am glad my 2 are not like that!

 

[sodakota]

But if someone believes this rifle is worth the $1,200 I have for it please send me a check. I'll pay for shipping.

 

[Nomosendero]

Sorry you bought one of those old ones. I bought one of the red pad rifles years ago in 7mag, it was beautiful but did not shoot well. It hit the road.
I would like to buy one more, thinking a 375 H&H maybe, but it will either have to be a black pad or be cheap enough to accurize.
I hope you get your money back.

 

[catch 22]

I looked at their group again it was 7/8" at 50 yards for 3 shots. They seemed to be proud of their group. I'll never ever buy another Ruger.

I would seriously consider it..........but how's it shoot?

 

[Bob Wright]

Mark Penrod, Penrod Precision, N. Manchester, Indiana is a Ruger No. 1 guru GS. Heck, builds them. I would give him a call to discuss. He is doing some work for me right now, again....

Mark can tell you more about them than prob anyone.

Mark Penrod
Penrod Precision
312 E College Ave
North Manchester, IN 46962
(260) 982-8385

This!
I would take a problem like this as a personal challenge, even if I had to go to a great Ruger guy as well.
It's a beautiful recreation of the old falling blocks.

 

[memtb]

I bought a heavy barrel 6mm Rem #1 on another forum.
The best load so far 3 shots into ~ 2.75" at a hundred yards. The next two shots were off the target. I complained to Ruger and sent the rifle in.
They sent it back - they were able to shoot three shots into 3/4" horizontally at 50 yards. No measure of vertical displacement.
No explanation, no comments, no offers were sent.
I imagine that I might be the 20th owner of the rifle as it was likely test fired and sold over and over.
I am proud owner of a 30 to 40 yard prairie dog rifle, wahoo.
I won't do what others have done with this rifle. I suppose re-barrel makes the most sense.
I would like to give Ruger the one finger salute.

What I've heard, read, and discovered about #1's ……when they're shooters they're awesome And, when they're not ……they're a pia!

I've heard/read that there are gunsmiths that specialize in doing accuracy work on the #1's! memtb