Bolt throw problems. Advice?

Schnyd112

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 10, 2015
Messages
505
Location
Northern Nevada
rile:
.260 rem
28", bartlein #9
Blueprinted rem 700, ptg bolt
Hs precision with bedding block
Jewel trigger
Factory bottom metal

when I try to run the bolt fast, it binds. Not opening or closing, but along the raceway. Not binds as in locks up, but it kinda chatters for lack of a better term. I don't know if it is because I am not running it correctly, something is off, or it is just a design flaw of the 700 action

I never remember this happening before I changed the bolt, but I also never ran it like I do now. If opened, gravity will move the bolt forward and backwards. If I go slowly, as in trying not to move the rifle, I don't have problems.

I have all the parts to make some drastic changes (mag fed, 22" .260 ai) but I don't want to spend the time bedding this action if something is amiss.

As always, any insight is appreciated.
 
does it catch on a magazine? if i bend my bolt the wrong way in my rem action, it creates friction on the bolt...mostly a technique issue for me..
 
Has it been cerakoted? I've had some that had to be lapped/polished after coating because tolerances were originally a little tighter than standard
 
do you have the old bolt?? if so I would do some measurements. was the old bolt bad?? or just needed an upgrade. little bit of oil goes a long ways to when parts are new....

just throwing some ideas out there
 
Old bolt measured .697 across the lugs. The action gauges at .702 in the recess so I replaced it. I do not have the old bolt.

Action has 5000+ rounds on it. The bolt has just under 1500 rounds since I rebuilt it last year. Lord knows how many dry fire cycles.

So do I look for a shorter bolt knob or do I just slow down? Do I spend the time converting this action to mag feed or do I start over with something fresh? As my skills increase, I ask more of my equipment. At what point am I expecting too much?
 
I've experienced the same issue with my Bordon rimrock SSR action. These actions are known for their super tight tolerances, which is good for accuracy, but it can be finicky in cycling. I noticed that my bolt runs much more smoothly dry and does not bind. But when I oil the bolt it gets sticky and starts binding. I now only put a small dab of high pressure grease on the bearing surface of the bolt lugs and the cocking piece ramp. This has stopped the binding. I also notice as the bolt picks up dirt from field use the bolt will need to be wiped down to smooth things back up. My sloppy Remington actions don't have this issue. I'm left to assume that the culprit is the tight fit of the bolt body in the bore of the receiver.
 
well you shouldn't have to slow down!! Im with Timnterra!! try it dry, although it may be so loose that its binding. does it feel really loose compared to a factory remington?? I have a factory rem long action that was trued an like Tim I just grease my action.
 
When I got into tactical competition where fast cycling of the bolt was paramount I found that my tactical bolt knob caused me to push up slightly on the bolt as I was pushing it forward. That was because my hand moved up into the bolt at the same time I was trying to close it and the slight upward pressure on the bolt handle caused it to bind just enough to hang the bolt up briefly. I've since learned to put my thumb on the lower portion of the bolt handle when I start to close it and by the time the bolt is closed my thumb moves to the outer portion of the bolt handle/knob to lock the action. It took a bit of practice but it solved the problem.
 
When I was in the market for a new rifle I started with Fierce. (Back up a second. I had a Pierce titanium action custom and it would bind like you are talking about. Pierce told me to "choke up on the bolt". With that I disassembled the rifle and sold the parts.) So I tried the big Weatherby and it did the same thing. I tried the the Christen Arms and it did it too. The counter man told me to try a Tika. Smooth as silk. So I tried another cheaper one; the light weight hunter Savage. It was like the Tika. I tried the six lug Mark V Weatherby and it was fine. These were all while working the bolt from the shouldered position. While I was in the mood, when I got home I tried my Klienguenther K14. It was like the Fierce and Pierce. A light coating of gun grease on the bolt body smoothed out the K14. We are not allowed to put grease on rifles in the store.

Now I'm going to try to sell my Klienguenther. It's too heavy for me anyway. Is that a good rationalization?
 
I never oil the bolt on my Rem. actions. A light dab of Shooter's Choice grease on the locking lugs and cocking ramp is it. I don't need to attract any more dust/dirt than I have to.
 
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