7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

Hey guys does this sound right. This is a 145 LRX touching the lands. I'm getting ready to play with seating depths and I'm not sure if this is right. From the tip of the bullet to the bottom of the brass is 3.811
 
Hey guys does this sound right. This is a 145 LRX touching the lands. I'm getting ready to play with seating depths and I'm not sure if this is right. From the tip of the bullet to the bottom of the brass is 3.811

Oglebuck, that sounds about right. A typical Remington OAL that fits in the box runs at or about 3.688 . That being said, that means you have about 123/1000 free bore, ( +-). P/ S, I love that bullet. I shoot them at box length, max length, and they shoot great. One word of caution!!!! Be careful, if your intention is to seat them into the riflings and single shoot them! Because the copper dosen't compress like a lead core bullet does, and pressures will peak quickly, and you will not get optimum velocity. Just a little FYI in the event you didn't know that.
I have heard of a few with as much as .200 free bore!
How is your gun shooting those bullets, by the way? Good luck!
Bob
 
It will loosen up after all the hoopla is over

Gerryb, I think you are right, but the question is, how long will it be this time. I am in good shape on bullets in all calibers. Just picked up a lb of H1000, and H4831 sc. ( just for a little cushion).The only thing I am having problems getting is 215GM primers. I am not in panic mode like a lot of people are. This is the time of year that I get my supplies anyway. I probably have enough supplies for about two years of normal shooting, and hunting as well.
I think now, and after all this " hoopla" we ALL will be a little more vigilant , and STAY stocked, just in case. And just when things were starting to become readily avail too! This really does suck!
 
I have from to major manufactures that they can only fill about 8 % of their oders . They expect a price increase and to ramp up around April 1st. I hope we all have enough to last and if they can get past legislation the shelves will fill up again unless they pass something ridiculous .
 
Bob, I'm looking to get a larger amount of powder as I buy small amounts now. How long does it last? Any special way of storing it?

Ed, I store opened containers that I am using, or will be using in my locker that I have near my bench. Some friends of mine, store " extras" in a wooden foot locker , in a cool, dry spot in there cellar. I have mine in a boat cooler, also in a cool dry place.
 
Bob, I'm looking to get a larger amount of powder as I buy small amounts now. How long does it last? Any special way of storing it?
Cool and dry is the word... I keep mine in my basement -- no more than a 10 degree swing from summer to winter. Read up on fire code as you may need to put together a magazine for it if you get enough. I have to split my powder between two rooms myself.
 
Oglebuck, that sounds about right. A typical Remington OAL that fits in the box runs at or about 3.688 . That being said, that means you have about 123/1000 free bore, ( +-). P/ S, I love that bullet. I shoot them at box length, max length, and they shoot great. One word of caution!!!! Be careful, if your intention is to seat them into the riflings and single shoot them! Because the copper dosen't compress like a lead core bullet does, and pressures will peak quickly, and you will not get optimum velocity. Just a little FYI in the event you didn't know that.
I have heard of a few with as much as .200 free bore!
How is your gun shooting those bullets, by the way? Good luck!
Bob

7stw. I wasn't planning on setting the bullet on the lands, I was just checking to see what coal would be with bullet on the lands. I'm new to this reloading stuff and have no one here at home to teach me so I come to you guys for help. I'm going to load some today at max oal 3.6?? and see if they will cycle in my gun. Then I'm going to load up a few with different RL25 loads and see if I can get my velocity right at 3400 safely. Then load up a few with the charge of choice and start playing with seating depths and find the most accurate group. Does this sound like the right plan to follow ?
 
I plan on upgrading the stock after I sell the model 70 300wsm I originally purchased to fill the role of this rifle. Future plans are a stock- I'm undecided between a b&c, hs, and McMillan. The plan is to keep overall weight reasonable and when the time comes rebarrel with something along the contour of a 3 or 4 shillen etc. I'll probably get another vortex viper but a pst model to have a retical for holding wind or quick adjustment if my calculation was incorrect. Lrh is a ways off, but a guy can dream! I guess the best thing about this round is that it's mbpr is farther than you can see most places in western Pa. Another speed goat trip is in the works though.
Till you get your money saved up for a nice custom stock you can really do a lot of good for your existing stock by pillar bedding, after this is done do a complete bedding of the action including a couple of inches under the chamber in front of the recoil lug.

Then rout out a good deep channel under the barrel removing as much of the plastic as you can all the way back to the recoil lug.

You can lay some 1/8" steel rod, or even half in angle metal (either steel or aluminim) in the cleaned out area.

Reinstall the barreled action and make sure you have complete clearance.

Use gorilla tape to line the underside of the barrel from the point at which your bedding under the chamber stops forward.

Fill the routed out area with Devcon or similar good epoxy. I like to use lead shot mixed in with the devcon to give some weight up front.

Reinstall the barreled action and let it set.

Take it out 24 hours later, clean up the excess just like any bedding job and you will find you now have a remarkably stiff stock for an investment of a few hours time and about 40.00 worth of material.

You also of course have a very nice custom pillar and action bedding and a completely free floated barrel all the way back to approximately the shoulder area of the cartidge.

Most people want a complete free float back to the recoil lug, but a great shot and a very handy self taught gunsmith taught me years ago if I'd bed right under the chamber it would relieve stress from the weight and vibration to the barrel at the recoil lug and it's never failed to work very well for me especially with M-70's.

When setting my pillars I also set them just about 1/32-1/16 higher than the original "floor" which gives a little extra room for extra grip with the bedding epoxy.

With plastic stocks you have to really rough the hell out of it to get it to adhere so don't be bashful about removing material underneath and along the sides of the action (just stay below the top edge so it doesn't show rough.
 
Cool and dry is the word... I keep mine in my basement -- no more than a 10 degree swing from summer to winter. Read up on fire code as you may need to put together a magazine for it if you get enough. I have to split my powder between two rooms myself.
Ditto. I also like to break up a keg into smaller containers "just in case".

If you fail to seal up a 1lbs can and it gets damaged due to humidity, not a big deal. If you fail to seal up an 8lbs keg and the same happens you are just screwed.
 
7stw. I wasn't planning on setting the bullet on the lands, I was just checking to see what coal would be with bullet on the lands. I'm new to this reloading stuff and have no one here at home to teach me so I come to you guys for help. I'm going to load some today at max oal 3.6?? and see if they will cycle in my gun. Then I'm going to load up a few with different RL25 loads and see if I can get my velocity right at 3400 safely. Then load up a few with the charge of choice and start playing with seating depths and find the most accurate group. Does this sound like the right plan to follow ?
Your on the rite road just start low and work up slowly and watch for signs of pressure you should end up in the 78.5 to 79 range with 25
 
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