7mm STW Brotherhood - For those who shoot the 7mm Shooting Times Westerner

Well, its offical! I picked up a winchester 70 classic stainless in 7mmstw I'm no expert but it couldnt have a box of ammo run through it. I'm pretty excited, and looking to check my bearings on what I'm putting together (using some of what I have sitting around til $$ gets saved back up), and some loading info.

model 70 crf stainless all factory
dnz game reaper one piece mount/base
vortex viper 6.5-20 x 44
hornady 162gr sst (i couldnt pass up $40/200!)
h1000
federal 215m
new remington brass

I've found a bunch of load data and from what i've read i like the stability of h1000 and its supposed to be kinder to the throat. Thoughts on that?

I've never reloaded for a belted case and i'm still foggy on sizing off the shoulder v. belt issue. Thanks in advance. I've already learned a lot from the dozens of pages I've read through.
 
Load using the shoulder as a reference like an '06 or similar. You have the original stock on your winny right??? If so you may well have to piller bed or put a laminate stock on it to realize its accuracy potential. We (my dad) had one of the SS's and he traded it because accuracy was flighty. I read later that the win tupperware isn't very sturdy and often needs replacing. Good luck to you; the wins can be fantastic rifles if you learn them. My remmy is still not where I want it, but I've got to actually get it to the range before I can work on it more.
As far as powders, I'd look at rl22,rl25, retumbo, and ramshot magnum. I've not had great luck with h1000 in my last 7stw; it shot but it hit pressure before it got fast. rl33 is a possible too, but my initial run with 171 barnes match showed it hitting pressure earlier than expected. I'm gonig to have to play more I guess.
 
I plan on upgrading the stock after I sell the model 70 300wsm I originally purchased to fill the role of this rifle. Future plans are a stock- I'm undecided between a b&c, hs, and McMillan. The plan is to keep overall weight reasonable and when the time comes rebarrel with something along the contour of a 3 or 4 shillen etc. I'll probably get another vortex viper but a pst model to have a retical for holding wind or quick adjustment if my calculation was incorrect. Lrh is a ways off, but a guy can dream! I guess the best thing about this round is that it's mbpr is farther than you can see most places in western Pa. Another speed goat trip is in the works though.
 
Lefty7mmstw said:
Load using the shoulder as a reference like an '06 or similar. You have the original stock on your winny right??? If so you may well have to piller bed or put a laminate stock on it to realize its accuracy potential. We (my dad) had one of the SS's and he traded it because accuracy was flighty. I read later that the win tupperware isn't very sturdy and often needs replacing. Good luck to you; the wins can be fantastic rifles if you learn them. My remmy is still not where I want it, but I've got to actually get it to the range before I can work on it more.
As far as powders, I'd look at rl22,rl25, retumbo, and ramshot magnum. I've not had great luck with h1000 in my last 7stw; it shot but it hit pressure before it got fast. rl33 is a possible too, but my initial run with 171 barnes match showed it hitting pressure earlier than expected. I'm gonig to have to play more I guess.
Click to expand...

There's many different reasons that could cause accuracy issues with factory guns in factory configurations, and they're not true with every factory gun. The most common issue we see with accuracy issues are the crowns, either a bad factory crown (cut out of true to the bore) or user caused damage (putting the gun in the truck muzzle down on the floor for example). Stocks can cause accuracy issues, very rarely does pillar style bedding fix these problems. Pillar bedding only allows for the action and the bottom metal (or action screws in a ADL style rifle) a secure clamping force, it does not give the action and chamber area of the barrel any support. The next area is the barrel channel not being floated properly if at all. All that bedding fixes is it gives the action a solid support during recoil not to move and cause harmonics to be as similar from shot to shot as possible. The other benefit is that when the action is removed from the stock for cleaning/maintenance, the point of impact change is minimal.
The biggest reason for changing a stock is the shooter's preference by in large. You as the shooter will shoot better hands down, if you're comfortable for your shooting style (wrong or right) if the stock feels good to you, it doesn't matter what I like, or Manny, Moe, or Jack likes. If you get on that weapon, and everything feels right, you're going to shoot better, period.
 
SFR292 said:
There's many different reasons that could cause accuracy issues with factory guns in factory configurations, and they're not true with every factory gun. The most common issue we see with accuracy issues are the crowns, either a bad factory crown (cut out of true to the bore) or user caused damage (putting the gun in the truck muzzle down on the floor for example). Stocks can cause accuracy issues, very rarely does pillar style bedding fix these problems. Pillar bedding only allows for the action and the bottom metal (or action screws in a ADL style rifle) a secure clamping force, it does not give the action and chamber area of the barrel any support. The next area is the barrel channel not being floated properly if at all. All that bedding fixes is it gives the action a solid support during recoil not to move and cause harmonics to be as similar from shot to shot as possible. The other benefit is that when the action is removed from the stock for cleaning/maintenance, the point of impact change is minimal.
The biggest reason for changing a stock is the shooter's preference by in large. You as the shooter will shoot better hands down, if you're comfortable for your shooting style (wrong or right) if the stock feels good to you, it doesn't matter what I like, or Manny, Moe, or Jack likes. If you get on that weapon, and everything feels right, you're going to shoot better, period.
Click to expand...

+1, what he said!! ( especially the last paragraph):D
 
SFR292 said:
There's many different reasons that could cause accuracy issues with factory guns in factory configurations, and they're not true with every factory gun. The most common issue we see with accuracy issues are the crowns, either a bad factory crown (cut out of true to the bore) or user caused damage (putting the gun in the truck muzzle down on the floor for example). Stocks can cause accuracy issues, very rarely does pillar style bedding fix these problems. Pillar bedding only allows for the action and the bottom metal (or action screws in a ADL style rifle) a secure clamping force, it does not give the action and chamber area of the barrel any support. The next area is the barrel channel not being floated properly if at all. All that bedding fixes is it gives the action a solid support during recoil not to move and cause harmonics to be as similar from shot to shot as possible. The other benefit is that when the action is removed from the stock for cleaning/maintenance, the point of impact change is minimal.
The biggest reason for changing a stock is the shooter's preference by in large. You as the shooter will shoot better hands down, if you're comfortable for your shooting style (wrong or right) if the stock feels good to you, it doesn't matter what I like, or Manny, Moe, or Jack likes. If you get on that weapon, and everything feels right, you're going to shoot better, period.
Click to expand...

I'm not getting into a fight about pillar bedding. I've worked a few rifles bedding over and this is by far not my first rodeo. Most of the time a simple float is enough. Pillars seem to have worked on my BDL with soft wood, though. I agree if you have huge gashes of bedded area missing you need to fix it, but I was referring to some really crappy stocks put out by win that NEVER should have hit the market. Marlin has done this lately with their xl7 and its tupperware. If you want to put a synthetic stock on a rifle, put one on it that actually works well in all conditions and doesn't get floppy when it is 100 degrees outside.

P.S.-- I've never had a bad crown on one of my rifles. Treat your rifle like it cost more than $5 for cripes sakes, it isn't that hard to do. I've seen a few rifles with poor crowns in the gun shops, but I refuse to touch anything someone thought was their red-headed stepchild.
 
Well its official. This STW addiction has lead me to building my first "custom" rifle.
I had a Sako 75 in STW that I have very much enjoyed for the last year. Then I bought a Sako m995 TRGs. I have just sold the 75, and the m995 was shipped out today to have a 26" Krieger #6 contour 1-9 SS barrel installed. It is getting a JP Enterprises Bennie Cooley brake, and is going to be mounted in a Kinetic Research Whiskey 3 chassis.
I know this doesn't really blend in here as a hunting rifle, but it will be one kick butt long range rifle. No to mention fun.
The gunsmith is also going to setup the factory barrel correctly. (Long story, but the factory rifle had been tampered with which led it to being the donor for a custom)
I am planning to have both barrels setup, to be able to switch the barrel back to factory for a hunting rifle if I desire.

I haven't totally decided on optics yet, but I am leaning toward a Nightforce. I have always been a Leupold guy, but would like to try a Nightforce.
Now the waiting begins.
 
Fire306 said:
Well its official. This STW addiction has lead me to building my first "custom" rifle.
I had a Sako 75 in STW that I have very much enjoyed for the last year. Then I bought a Sako m995 TRGs. I have just sold the 75, and the m995 was shipped out today to have a 26" Krieger #6 contour 1-9 SS barrel installed. It is getting a JP Enterprises Bennie Cooley brake, and is going to be mounted in a Kinetic Research Whiskey 3 chassis.
I know this doesn't really blend in here as a hunting rifle, but it will be one kick butt long range rifle. No to mention fun.
The gunsmith is also going to setup the factory barrel correctly. (Long story, but the factory rifle had been tampered with which led it to being the donor for a custom)
I am planning to have both barrels setup, to be able to switch the barrel back to factory for a hunting rifle if I desire.

I haven't totally decided on optics yet, but I am leaning toward a Nightforce. I have always been a Leupold guy, but would like to try a Nightforce.
Now the waiting begins.
Click to expand...
It blends in just fine .......Thats gonna be an awesome rig
 
Elevendysixty said:
Well, its offical! I picked up a winchester 70 classic stainless in 7mmstw I'm no expert but it couldnt have a box of ammo run through it. I'm pretty excited, and looking to check my bearings on what I'm putting together (using some of what I have sitting around til $$ gets saved back up), and some loading info.

model 70 crf stainless all factory
dnz game reaper one piece mount/base
vortex viper 6.5-20 x 44
hornady 162gr sst (i couldnt pass up $40/200!)
h1000
federal 215m
new remington brass

I've found a bunch of load data and from what i've read i like the stability of h1000 and its supposed to be kinder to the throat. Thoughts on that?

I've never reloaded for a belted case and i'm still foggy on sizing off the shoulder v. belt issue. Thanks in advance. I've already learned a lot from the dozens of pages I've read through.
Click to expand...

Elevendysixty, WOW, what a screen name, but I'm sure theres a reason for it that only you know.
It sounds like to me that you have the makings for nice shooting combo, and I must say, you gotta love the Winchester actions, and rifles in general. Someone here got me into taken a liking to them, and now, I'm hooked.
( in fact, I'm building a rifle on a Winchester action as we speak).
Any who, the bullets , brass, primers, and powder you have, will definitely get you started. And for now, I wouldn't worry about sizing of the shoulder for now until you get your feet wet, and get familiar with your rifle, and it's wants and dislikes.
Your overall length is probably going to be right around 3.630 +-. don't be afraid to seat you bullet right up to box length, as this cartridge is free bored.
The h1000 is a great starter powder, and you may look for nothing else. My partner, Butterbean swears by it, and that's good for me. I have had great luck with RL25, 215GM primers. You have a awesome array of bullets to choose from, although, right now, they may be difficult to find, but then again maybe not. Good luck with your new toy, and if you run into problems, give anyone here a shout, we'll help you out!
Welcome aboard!
 
Fire306 said:
Well its official. This STW addiction has lead me to building my first "custom" rifle.
I had a Sako 75 in STW that I have very much enjoyed for the last year. Then I bought a Sako m995 TRGs. I have just sold the 75, and the m995 was shipped out today to have a 26" Krieger #6 contour 1-9 SS barrel installed. It is getting a JP Enterprises Bennie Cooley brake, and is going to be mounted in a Kinetic Research Whiskey 3 chassis.
I know this doesn't really blend in here as a hunting rifle, but it will be one kick butt long range rifle. No to mention fun.
The gunsmith is also going to setup the factory barrel correctly. (Long story, but the factory rifle had been tampered with which led it to being the donor for a custom)
I am planning to have both barrels setup, to be able to switch the barrel back to factory for a hunting rifle if I desire.

I haven't totally decided on optics yet, but I am leaning toward a Nightforce. I have always been a Leupold guy, but would like to try a Nightforce.
Now the waiting begins.
Click to expand...

You've got the addiction part right! It is certainly that. And yeah, what you are building **** sure fits in here. That thing is going to shoot it a$&@& off. The Sako actions are underrated, and very strong. I had a Sako 75 stainless synthetic for a while. I liked it very well. It took me a while to get the load that it liked, but when I did, I would repeat it all the time. Fast barrel too!
As far as the optics go, I was at a gunshow on Sunday, and had my hands on a NF, 5-22 zero stop. BEAUTIFUL scope, incredible optics, but I didn't like the crosshair. It was sort of like a Sheppard view, too busy for me. They have others though!
Now, as far as the wait goes, I'm there with you on that. I dropped off a 27 inch Brux barrel, and a Winchester M70 action to be assembled into a 280 just yesterday, so as you say, now the wait begins.
That Sako is going to be a shooter, I'm sure. ( it's worth the wait). :D
 
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Kind of off topic but i am looking for some h1000,does any supplier have any powder?I am going to send my rem 700 to texas for a barrel job and would like to have some powder to load bythe time my stick is done.
 
I've seen it available locally at a few smaller shops that seem not to have been panic purchased too terribly.If you can't find any I'd could probably ship you some, but hazard charges double the cost of one Lb.
Now that I've offered i hope they still have some!
 

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