5 minutes on cleaning

The reason I ask is because I had it etch a piece of stainless after about 15 minutes.
I cant imagine it not eating on a bronze brush.
It will certainly eat a bronze brush! I just change it out for new one when it's gets fairly easy to push it through the barrel. I've been using CLR for several years on many different barrels and have never had premature wear or loss in accuracy.
Like I said earlier if you clean on a regular regiment it does
not take much to keep the carbon at bay.
 
I'll pass on using CLR. CLR contains two acids:

Product Name CLR® PRO CALCIUM, LIME & RUST REMOVER
Restrictions on Use Incompatible with strong oxidizing agents, metals (except stainless steel, chrome),
acids, bases, and bleach...

https://clrbrands.com/proline/sds
Component CAS# OSHA HAZARD % by Weight
1. Lactic Acid 79-33-4 YES 5.00-18.00
2. Lauramine Oxide 1643-20-5 YES 1.50-7.50

Read the discussion linked and decide for yourself.

 
CLR will not hurt stainless rifle barrels...if you want, Erik Cortina on YouTube shows leaving a muzzle brake in a cup of pure CLR overnight, and there is ZERO damage, etching, or negative reaction. There are warnings about using on blued firearms, but with care, can be used in the bore....rsbhunter
 
Yeah, I seen Erics video & started using CLR.
Left my Bolt in it for a couple hrs. No issues.
I do understand there are various types/grades of stainless so its good to test first.
 
Several stainless steel recipes out there for manufacturers to choose from. Lilja and Hart must use the stuff CLR won't hurt because I've used it with no problems. I am pretty careful about spills and slop trying to keep my workspace tidy and guns unmarred by chemicals.
 
When I started using it CLR ( Thanks Erik) I took a soaked patch and scrubbed the out side of my Krieger bbl for awhile....there was no difference to either the bbl or patch. I pour it in my ThunderBeast can with one end plugged, (ceracoat) and it hasn't hurt the coating, but I don't soak the finish for long. It looks like black lava with all of the carbon that foams out the top....I then put my finger over the end, shake hard, empty , rinse with hot water, shake, pour some 99% isopropyl alcohol in it, shake, and drain....normally the blast baffle is 99% clean of carbon....rsbhunter
 
When I started using it CLR ( Thanks Erik) I took a soaked patch and scrubbed the out side of my Krieger bbl for awhile....there was no difference to either the bbl or patch. I pour it in my ThunderBeast can with one end plugged, (ceracoat) and it hasn't hurt the coating, but I don't soak the finish for long. It looks like black lava with all of the carbon that foams out the top....I then put my finger over the end, shake hard, empty , rinse with hot water, shake, pour some 99% isopropyl alcohol in it, shake, and drain....normally the blast baffle is 99% clean of carbon....rsbhunter
 
I think that if you take care using it, it will do the job of carbon removal. There WILL be times that whatever mildly abrasive paste you use, Flitz, JB paste or other product will be needed. The best $50 I ever spent was on Teslong bore scope. Clean patches really DON'T always tell the truth. Hopefully one-day the bore cleaning product comes out that requires one or two patches and done...rsbhunter
 
I think that if you take care using it, it will do the job of carbon removal. There WILL be times that whatever mildly abrasive paste you use, Flitz, JB paste or other product will be needed. The best $50 I ever spent was on Teslong bore scope. Clean patches really DON'T always tell the truth. Hopefully one-day the bore cleaning product comes out that requires one or two patches and done...rsbhunter
 
I have to thank Erik too. Just got a Teslong bore scope about a week ago. I have a 7mm RemMag that I got back in 1990. It might have over 2,500 rounds through it. Always used Hoppe's #9, Sweet's 7.62, JB Bore paste, and Flitz to clean it. Always cleaned it until the patches came out clean. Then I bore scoped it. Oh my God! What a nightmare. I started to clean it again starting with the Sweet's. I was leaving it soak for 30 minutes. Patch it out, then reapply it. That took about a half a day to get the copper out. After doing that. I would patch with acetone a couple of times. Next was the CLR. Patch it, leave it soak for 30 minutes, patch it out and reapply. Got all of the carbon out. After that, it was the acetone again. Next up was the JB Bore paste. Lets just say my arms got tired. Patch with acetone again. Now I have a nice shiny clean bore. With the clean bore. I can see all of the fire cracking in the throat area and the erosion there too. Ahhhh.........time for new barrel.
 
Carb or brake cleaner are good for carbon removal on blued barrels.
I had to re-blue my Kimber 8400 Select because I had CLR on a patch which I thought was metho because the CLR bottles in Australia come with CLEAR CLR.
I have fixed that by dropping a drop or two of food dye in it. Green looked good so that's what I used.

Cheers.
 
I agree rsbhunter,get a borescope and the worrying starts!
But it does show what works and what don't and I sure use mine.
I have not used C L R but for those who are thinking about it soda ash or even baking soda will stop most all acids in a heartbeat.
 
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