Case cleaning

I'm very amused by all these different ways to clean brass, some have 10 steps to perfect brass and some just give them a wipe down and everyone has THE perfect solution that others should follow. Some use stainless pins and others decry them because they are a pain to remove, sometimes. Some hate dry tumbling but are happy with wet tumbling or ultrasonic and dealing with drying cases, sometimes with a dedicated case dryer. Then some pro shooter comes along and doesn't clean their brass at all...
^^^^^^^
Yep
I admit that I am a Wet Tumbler SS Pin reloader.
BUT!!!
I knew shooters that hold State and National Shooting Awards and they don't clean their Brass. They might swab out the neck but leave the outside of the case alone. Their explanation was that that film of "Dirt" coating on the outside of the case actually helps keep the case inside the chamber when fired. Kind of like friction to keep the case in place when expanded.
I guess 10 different shooters can have 10 different ways to clean along with all other aspects with reloading.

I just try to do all of my processes the same each time for consistency.
 
I think I understand what you are suggesting. I think you put spray one shot spray into a casing you are going to put powder in, and then seat the bullet and push the same lube down with the bullet. I can use any similar lube inside my cases to ensure consistent neck tension when loading the case?
Well I actually do it during the sizing process to lube the neck for the bushing and the inside is lubed for the mandrel expander. I don't use a button expander any more, mandrel expansion is my preference. The lube is for the mandrel first and then it lubes the inside of the neck for the bullet to seat easier. On a floating seater the difference in resistance can be significant.
 
I use a 40/60 Lyman treated corn cob and corn blast, add 4 used Bounce dryer sheets and run for 2hrs. When it takes 4hrs to get the same result, I toss the used media and add new,

The dryer sheets remove a lot of dust and are changed with every tumbler load. They keep the media cleaner.
The dryer sheets must be used or the brass gets a sticky feeling on the brass.

I'm running 2 Lyman Turbo Sonic 2500's and a Lyman 2400.
 
I used a rotary with green corn cob for years. Then someone on here pointed out that I was removing a great bullet seating compound. Now I only hit the outside neck and about half way down the case with a little steel wool while inspecting cases.
 
Well I actually do it during the sizing process to lube the neck for the bushing and the inside is lubed for the mandrel expander. I don't use a button expander any more, mandrel expansion is my preference. The lube is for the mandrel first and then it lubes the inside of the neck for the bullet to seat easier. On a floating seater the difference in resistance can be significant.
Ok....that makes sense. I probably posted wrong previously as I was trying to say neck tension when loading. Maybe because I can be slow I always thought consistent neck tension was what was wanted during the loading process not sizing. Yes I lube necks inside and out while sizing then vibratory clean a second time. Regardless for me my neck tension at the time of loading is totally jacked up if I tumble. If I never tumble them spotless and only use vibratory they are fine. Next non critical brass I will only tumble for 30min and see how they turn out.
 
There's probably not an operation in reloading that has as much user variability as brass cleaning.

Some don't clean at all, others are passionate about their chosen method.

Obviously lots of methods can work including not cleaning brass.

Personally, I reload inside the comfort of my house and I like my reloading bench, presses, and floor to be clean. So brass doesn't come to my main reloading bench until it's been deprimed and wet tumbled.

I've got methods in place to address anyone's concerns with wet tumbling. It's a system that works great for me.
 
I compete in short range Benchrest competition as well as reloading numerous hunting cartridges. So the following is what works for ME:
I found that the most consistent bullet seating is achieved when there is some carbon (from firing) left in the case neck - so I do one pass into the neck with a nylon case neck brush. I normally clean the carbon soot off the necks just after firing before it hardens. I leave the primers in and cap the case mouth with appropriate sized rubber tubing caps (Amazon, MSC). So in effect, the inside case never sees water or pins. I wet tumble with SS pins with dish detergent and a cap full of Realemon lemon juice. When done I inspect for defects (which really show up on shiny brass), proceed to lube the cases with Imperial wax and resize. I don't find it necessary to clean the carbon out of the primer pockets every time. The resize lube wipes off very easily on shiny brass with a rag dampened with Coleman Fuel.
The rubber caps also protect the case mouth from any peening caused by the pins -which is a big factor in tight-necked BR cases.
 
.............Or you could build your own. This tumbler can hold 150/200 30-06 sized cases, 4lbs of St. Stl. Pins, with cleaner & Lemi Shine.
Tumbler. gif.jpeg
 
I started with a Lyman vibratory system (like everyone at the time). I used two different types of Lyman media but both left the cases dusty, inside and out. After that, I just cleaned the outside of the necks with 0000 steel wool. Eventually, I transitioned to one of the early SS pin tumblers and have been very satisfied with the results after some trial & error.

I don't always clean my brass, quite the opposite actually. However, if you're reloading brass 10x or more, it does need an occasional trip through the tumbler.
How many loads do you get out of your brass? 10 is usually the limit for mine, but most of mine are magnum cartridges. Why do you say it does occasionally need to be tumbled? How much carbon build up is in the brass? Does it remove needed cass capacity?
 
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