Power cleaning
- Thread starter orkan
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Bronze brush, but I think I'm going to switch to nylon, as the bronze starts to shed bristles when it wears out and I kind of hate that. I'm hoping I can find a nylon one that won't do that. I have a ton of bronze brushes to go through first however.
I use CLR, Wipe out/patch out and accelerator, and kroil. Flitz for super fouled stuff. That's it. I have other videos on my channel that talk about it some.
-----------
Follow on Instagram
Subscribe on YouTube
Amazon Affiliate
Always use the drill and JB for carbon rings. Works great.
7.62 Gunner
Well-Known Member
That's a great way to ruin your barrel, never use abrasives especially with a drill or bore brush
Is CLR ok to use on carbon steel barrels?Bronze brush, but I think I'm going to switch to nylon, as the bronze starts to shed bristles when it wears out and I kind of hate that. I'm hoping I can find a nylon one that won't do that. I have a ton of bronze brushes to go through first however.
I use CLR, Wipe out/patch out and accelerator, and kroil. Flitz for super fouled stuff. That's it. I have other videos on my channel that talk about it some.
-----------
Follow on Instagram
Subscribe on YouTube
Amazon Affiliate
Judging by the performance of the barrel in the video, I may want to ruin all my barrels.
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I use a high speed drill and SS brushes. You can't believe how fast the carbon is removed. 
Varmint Hunter
Well-Known Member
I use a high speed drill and SS brushes. You can't believe how fast the carbon is removed.
Yes - yes - yes, I was only kidding. Please don't follow that cleaning regiment.
I bore scoped one of our .260 Rem and had some copper buildup and started to get a Carbon Ring. I was going to turn out the DRILL on it but didn't get around to it. I was cleaning with Montana Copper Killer and then letting Kriol sit in the barrel. Well that was about a month ago and decided to get to our range today. I didn't get to break out the drill yet. So last night I sprayed some Gunscrubber down the tube to clean out the Kroil put some patches through then G-96 with some more patches.
I fired a foul round then two in the same hole @ 100yds. Ran 300 to 800 yds targets and then four dead center on a 6" plate at 966 yds.
One of my most accurate shoots.
I wanted to try the drill and bronze/Nylon brush. Will have to scope the chamber and again when I start to loose accuracy.
I fired a foul round then two in the same hole @ 100yds. Ran 300 to 800 yds targets and then four dead center on a 6" plate at 966 yds.
One of my most accurate shoots.
I wanted to try the drill and bronze/Nylon brush. Will have to scope the chamber and again when I start to loose accuracy.
What's on the end of the drill? Cleaning agents ?
7.62 Gunner
Well-Known Member
I'm talking JB bore paste that barrelnut suggested.
Don't take my word for it ask a pro like Frank Green from Bartlein barrels, he'll tell you all about power cleaning and abrasives.
Oh boy I just watched the video..
Yeah that's super scientific and really follows effects of repeated abrasion and barrel degradation
Last edited:
Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
Different strokes for different folks...........my way of thinking is that when a barrel is hand lapped, the lay of the scratches from the abrasive run lengthwise with the bore to remove circumferential tool marks which is what causes copper fouling. When you break in a barrel, it is to smooth out the tool marks in the throat area from the reamer that are circumferential to the bore. Why would you want to put more scratches circumferentially and wear one side of the lands prematurely in doing so? 
