Remington 700 rebarrel?s

TNdeer

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Feb 13, 2013
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Franklin,tn
Ive got mid 80s 7mm rem mag used to shoot 1/2 groups at 100 but doesnt do that good recently.Would like to rebarrel with muzzle brake(shoulder surgery cant take the recoil as much as i use to).What type barrel is best for the money.Or would i be cheaper buying a savage with the brake already on it?
 
Hart Kreiger lilja brux all offer kick *** top notch barrels. Some offer fluted options some dont.
Having recived a career ending shoulder injury rodeoing, I can sympathize. However my case may differ. I can't stand wearing heavy packs day in & day out. Nor can I pack a 10 ton rifle on my shoulder all season. Oddly enough I can pack extremely heavy loads on that same shoulder for short time frames (load of lumber from here to there or 90lb bags of concrete etc) but continuous pressure like suspenders kills me :rolleyes:.

I like a lighter weight rifle, but heavy enough to be a stable platform for LR. So fluted 26" #4 contour is about perfect for me.
** plus it's a large enough diameter @ muzzle to support many muzzle brakes, some of which aren't offered for factory taper.
My brake of choice is Jim See's Centershot Rifles "Muscle Brake". Being a timed brake, (side discharge) It's incredibly effective at reducing recoil, & not horribly obnoxious to the shooter like many radial brakes.
Timed brakes don't throw mud, snow, dirt/dust etc all over the shooter, & expensive optics while shooting prone, like radial brakes do either.

I'd recommend a timed brake hands down. Here's my pick of most effective brakes offered with a long reputation to go with them. Plus they're LRH sponsors!
Muscle brake, Jim CSR
Painkiller brake, Kirby
Defensive Edge brake, Shawn DE
& there are also a few other brakes offered by other smiths here on LRH that are making a good name for themselves.

My vote is a quality rebarrel, in combination with a quality brake, & pillar bedding job. You end up with a darn nice semi custom rifle that should really perform well, & will retain its value.
If you buy a cheapo savage, your left with a cheapo savage.
Some folks like em, some don't.
Personally I'd take a Win-70, or Rem-700 Any Day over an ugly cheap rifle.
 
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Before you select a brake do some thread searching. Not all brakes are created equal. The problem with vais is they have ports all around and will blow dirt and material all over and back at you.

Search brakes and breaks cause guys spell it both ways.

A lot of good barrel makers out there. Benchmark, Bartlein and Broughton are some more. I like 5R/5C barrels.

It wouldn't hurt to get the action trued either.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for all tha advice so far.What does trueing the action involve?I think ill go with a fluted barrel not sure which brand yet.I like the thought of extra strength without to much weight.Can differant stocks effect recoil?Was thinking of replacing wood with syn.
 
There are a lot of options for improving your action which including trueing and lug lapping. You can also replace the bolt and firing pin and trigger and recoil lug. I'm having a 300 RUM built on a 700 and having it all done. Talk it over with your smith and decide what's best for you but I would at least have the receiver trued and lugs lapped as a minimum. The next best thing to do would be have a Timney trigger installed.
 
Thanks for the input guys I dropped rifle off at gunsmith yesterday evening. Here is what we decidide to do.Krieger#4 contour luckily he had a brand new Muscle brake only 12 shots on it someone returned and had him put on a differant brand.He gave it to me for free! ! ! !He is gonna true the action and glass bed the stock Make the barrel black to match receiver.All for the low price of 595.00.I Guess taking him hunting a few years back helped out.
 
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