Which suppressor

Back to the factory time. 😞

Hunter Town arms has been out of business for a long time now. I'm going to try and soak it in bore tech carbon cleaner and if that doesn't work Il probably end up doing the dip or getting the magneto S kit that hooks up to a pressure washer.
 
A few thoughts:

1). Almost no one has bought one of each model under discussion and compared like we do with guns. NFA items are a PITA to acquire so we just make a choice and then tell ourselves we did the right thing. The important info in this thread has to do with what has worked and not worked for people.

2). For me, accuracy came first followed by light weight/not screwing up the balance of the gun, followed by durability. The fact that so many competitive/accuracy driven shooters use TBAC got my attention as their criteria were very close to mine.

3) User serviceable cans by their design will always be heavier than fully welded designs.

There are two ways to build a can. a) Construct a tube and slide baffles into that tube and screw on a cap (user serviceable), or b) weld the outer diameter of a stack of baffles together, machine the OD, and the baffle assembly IS the tube. You eliminate a lot of metal by losing the redundant tube and all the metal accommodating threads.

4) I went TBAC for the above reasons, let your own reasons define your choice. As the .mil guys say, the mission defines the gear.

TBAC does make a CB flash hider mount now, which is a good thing IMO as I don't much care for brakes either. Truth is though, if the gun can take a can you will always have it on there once you have the capability.

Added mounts for added guns do add up. That alone is an argument for the direct thread option.

5) Finally, if you are not an engineer, resist the urge to play one. Marketers and sales types play this card well and (as a mechanical engineer since '84) I just roll my eyes at the crap I read. They generally take some <1% chance of occurring scenario and use it against a competitor's design. In general engineering design involves all sorts of trade offs and looking at any one factor in isolation will quickly get you into the wrong place.
All good points and your conclusion/choice is not a bad one. I don't trust one source's opinion, and especially those from dealers who represent/push a certain brand. I called numerous dealers and users to collect feedback and summarize the conclusions, giving more authority to those who actually had personal experience with all the models I was considering and no personal stake in my choice. I'm happy with the results.

I'm happy to recommend Dead Air, TBAC, CGS, Omega 300 as ones I have more experience with. Certainly, there are others that could be added to the list as well. Gunwerks new Ti cans would interest me too.
 
Eform 4 took 250 days. Sent in 3-24-22. Received approval 12-1-22
So this will mean there will be some bright and shiny upgrades out there before you get the suppressor you paid for 250 days ago. Chasing the newest and coolest suppressors definitely isn't for those looking for instant gratification.
 
Something to consider when buying can's (you can't buy just one) the health and strength of the mfg.

Even some of the big named companies have had issues with CS and design flaws. Research the company thoroughly.

Your first can should be the work horse in your stable, my most used cans are SBR and full auto rated, not that I'll ever need it but were designed accordingly, makes for a heavy but near indestructible. Get your .22 can at this time also.

As others have said, you don't want or need a serviceable center fire can, rim fire yes.

I like QD's on most rifles but several do have dedicated DT units.

Bought my first 23years ago and have a nice collection from a few mfg's, AAC, Gemtech, Sico and Rugged to name a few.
 
I'm going to be odd man out and recommend 2 other suppressors. The YHM Resonator R2 and the Energetic Arms Vox S. Both are very good at reducing Db, rated up to 300 RUM, full auto rated and are compatible with different mounting systems. I have mine outfitted with the Hellfire adapters so I can switch between a brake or suppressor very quickly. The Vox is lighter, but I find myself grabbing the R2 more often. I run mine on a 28 Nosler, 6.5 PRC, 6.5 CM, 308 Win, 300 Blackout and 223/5.56. The only downside I see is the extra weight on the end of my barrel when carrying with a sling. Kind of a PITA when the rifle doesn't want to ride upright.
As far as forms, the E form seems to be faster but not by much. There is still a huge backlog of forms to process. My last can took just over 11 months.
 
It's hard to go wrong with thunderbeast but find them in stock somewhere or you'll be waiting a while. KGM is also a good option and they are usually quick to get them to your SOT
 
Personally I wanna be able to clean it out. I don't want a piece of carbon falling into my barrel on a hunt.

Comparing it to a car's muffler is silly to me and not a good analogy as your muffler isn't attached to your engine in way that it's deposits could fall back into your engine causing issues.

Plus a lot of companies will clean there welded cans out for you if you send them in to them.
Soak it in some CLR...
 
Soak it in some CLR...
Just to clarify you mean fill it with CLR and soak the intervals correct? An earplug in the end cap usually works for this.

Since my last response I've had some experience with the Sico Scythe and Diligent Enticer S-Ti. Both give the TBAC competition.
 
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