Your Favorite Build Components . . .

[lckytylr]

Let's say a guy is going to build a rifle (NW Big Game Hunting - Elk, Deer & Bear). I'm very partial to a 300 RUM, but I'm open to other options. This is NOT a debate about what the best caliber is, just to provide a basis for what components would compliment a caliber in that range. I'm leaning towards 180-210 bullets at decent velocities. Let's say that the budget hasn't been established yet.

So, of you guys that have built a few rifles, of all of the different components that you could choose from to arrive at a fully built rifle, what are your top 3 picks for each piece? If you are already familiar with prices of the options that you will present for this, go ahead and throw round prices at the items you know of.

Thanks All, hopefully this will be fun for everyone. I'm going to use it as my basis for researching my own build which I will create a new thread for on here to track my progress.

Barrel (Brand, Contour & Length)
1.
2.
3.

Action (any pro's / con's??) - Oh, I want to have a drop-out mag.
1.
2.
3.

Bolt (pro's / cons??)
1.
2.
3.

Stocks (Brand, Contour - Aluminum or Glass bedding)
1.
2.
3.

Trigger (pro's / cons??)
1.
2.
3.

Rail
1.
2.
3.

Rings / Bases
1.
2.
3.

Scopes (I can't believe I opened that can of worms . . . let's keep it between NF, Swaro, Huskemaw).
1.
2.
3.

Muzzle Break
1.
2.
3.

Recoil Pad
1.
2.
3.

 

[Doublezranch]

Assassin muzzle brake...1, 2, and 3

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Barrel: Pac-Nor, Sendero, 28"
Action: Weatherby Mark V or Vanguard
Bolt: Stock
Stock: Weatherby, B&C Medalists or Boyds Thumbhole
Trigger: Tuned stock or Timney
Rail: EGW 20 MOA
Rings: UTG Max Strength LE Grade Quick Detach Picatinny or Weaver 30mm Six Hole Tactical. Not the choice most would make but it works for me.
Scope: Leupold for hunting, Sightron for Target/Tactical
Brake: Harrels
Recoil pad: Decelerator

 

[Edd]

Barrel (Brand, Contour & Length)
1. Krieger
2. Bartlein
3.

Custom Palma style contour, 1.300" diameter x 3.00 long breech then tapered to a 1.050" diameter neck at 5.50" then straight tapered to .820" at the muzzle, 26 inches long with a 9" twist.

Action (any pro's / con's??) - Oh, I want to have a drop-out mag.
1. BAT HRPIC
2.
3.

You can't have a drop out mag, they are all to short for a 300 RUM. You will need to use a Wyatt extended center feed box and a BDL style floor plate.

Bolt (pro's / cons??)
1. The standard fluted one that comes with the BAT action.
2.
3.

Stocks (Brand, Contour - Aluminum or Glass bedding)
1. Mcmillan Remington Hunter, glass bedded.
2.
3.

Trigger (pro's / cons??)
1. Yes, you will need a trigger.
2.
3.

Rail
1. It is integral with the BAT HRPIC action.
2.
3.

Rings / Bases
1. Nightforce Rings
2.
3.

Scopes (I can't believe I opened that can of worms . . . let's keep it between NF, Swaro, Huskemaw).
1. Nightforce NXS 5-22 x 50
2.
3.

Muzzle Break
1.Assassin Brake
2.
3.

Recoil Pad
1. 1 inch Decelerator that McMillan installs
2.
3.

 

[BEEMAN]

I would seriously look at a 300 Win Mag. Mine shoots the 215 Berger at 3000 fps.
-#3 or #4 BRUX barrel at 26"
-Borden Timberline action
-Mcmillan Game scout stock
- Holland brake
-Jewel trigger
-Ptg Obendorf bottom metal
- NF SHV 5-20X56

Gun finishes at 10lbs 2oz. And shoots incredible. I went with a #3 contour. Only thing is you cant really blend a brake on a #3. So you get a bulge look. If you don't want a side discharge brake you could easily blend a VAIS brake.

 

[Rich Coyle]

.300 Remington Ultra Magnum build

Barrel: Proof Research 28" light Sendero carbon wrap - $900
Action: Pierce Titanium - $1,600
Bolt: provided by Pierce - $0
Stocks: MPI ultralight Weatherby shape - $500
Bedding: Glass with pillar bedding - $200
Trigger: not enough experience.
Rail: None - $0
Rings / Bases: Talley lightweight - $150
Scopes: Nightforce - $2,000
Muzzle Break: home made - $10
Recoil Pad: Microcell 1.26"- $35

 

[eshorebwhntr]

Barrel (Brand, Contour & Length)
1. Kreiger, 6, fluted, 27
2. Barlein, can't remember, fluted, 27
3. Lilja, #5, fluted, 27
------All 10 twist

Action (any pro's / con's??) - Oh, I want to have a drop-out mag.
1. Defiance, Deviant Hunter, Hybrid Port, Standard Tang, Long Tac Bolt Knob, Recessed Nose, Deep Fluting
---stronger than Remington by design, integral scope rail, integral lug, no cost of accurizing
-----no downside really
2. R700, full accurizing package by Greg Tannel, Rem Ti fluting by Kampfeld, Kampfeld bolt knob
---all greg's stuff shoots
-----little weaker than custom's, just as accurate in the end if done right
3.

Bolt (pro's / cons??)
1. Defiance is very true, very strong
2. Bushed by Greg, very true, feels like silk when you close it
3.

Stocks (Brand, Contour - Aluminum or Glass bedding)
1. Manners MCS-EH1, aluminum, then epoxy bed it just in front of the lug
------CDI bottom metal may drop in, not sure
2. Greybull - little heavier, little cheaper, great stock IMO
------Needs to be inletted, CDI will do it for free though
3.

Trigger (pro's / cons??)
1. Jewel - great feel, safe at low pull weights
2. Well tuned Remington - the right guy can make it almost as good as a jewel, the wrong one could get you a miss fire on bolt close, could end badly
3.

Rail
1. Integral 20 moa in the defiance listed above, it'll never come loose, built into the action
2. Most picatinny's on the market are about equal if R700 is the platform
3.

Rings / Bases
1. NF ultralight
2.
3.

Scopes (I can't believe I opened that can of worms . . . let's keep it between NF, Swaro, Huskemaw).
1. NF ATACR 4-16x42 MOAR
2. NF NXS 5.5-22x50 MOAR
3. Leupold VX-6 3-18x44 CDS-ZL
- Any of the above with a Holland level

Muzzle Break
1. Holland QD
2. Holland Radial Baffle
3. Any side ported brake

Recoil Pad
1. Whatever comes on the manners
2. Whatever comes on the greybull
3.

Magazines
1. they make 300 ultra magazines. I'd go with CDI precision bottom metal. If you can, find a smith (like Greg Tannel) than can cut your chamber so stuff like the VLD's will fit in the mag and still shoot well (ie shorter freebore). You may sacrifice some case capacity this way (and performance). If that is important then get the Wyatt stuff like was mentioned previously.

 

[lckytylr]

Thanks Everyone. Those are good places to start.

Anybody else have input?

How about bipods? Anyone have a preference?

 

[FearNoWind]

gun) - - - - - - - - - (X)

Barrel (Brand, Contour & Length)
1. Bartlein 5R
2. Medium Palma
3. 30" (it'll be shorter when is mounted and crowned)

Action (any pro's / con's??) - Oh, I want to have a drop-out mag.
1. Surgeon LA

Bolt (pro's / cons??)
1. Stock

Stocks (Brand, Contour - Aluminum or Glass bedding)
1. McMillan (style of choice - I like the A5)

Trigger (pro's / cons??)
1. Timney with 1.5 pound pull weight
(Trigger block safety)

Rail
1. EGW (Steel)

Rings / Bases
1. Burris Weaver Style "Zee" rings with inserts

Scopes (I can't believe I opened that can of worms . . . let's keep it between NF, Swaro, Huskemaw).
1. NF

Muzzle Break
1. No aftermarket add-ons; I'd have the gunsmith machine it into the barrel

Recoil Pad
1. Limb Saver

Bipod
1. Harris HBRM with RBA-1

Bedding
1. No Brainer .............

 

[bigngreen]

I tend to see two directions, one a do everything hammer or a dedicated long range rig. Personally I would prefer a 338 RUM over the 300 just because any rig I want for everything will get shot a lot so I want barrel life and I tend to be more elk hunting than every thing else. For a dedicated long range I'd run a 338 Lapua AI. I've built both rifles and they were amazing both in intended function and accuracy, the 338 RUM at hunting weight was 10 lbs and the 338 AI was 13 and change.

Barrel (Brand, Contour & Length)
1.Kreiger #5 26 inch length.
2.Brux med palma fluted 30 inch or Hart Sendero at 30 inches.
3.

Action (any pro's / con's??) - Oh, I want to have a drop-out mag.
1.Borden Timberline comes timed with trigger, best machine work available.
2.Stiller Tac 338 single shot, true and time it, Borden needs a Lapua action!!
3.

Bolt (pro's / cons??)
1.
2.
3.

Stocks (Brand, Contour - Aluminum or Glass bedding)
1.Precision Stock Works McMillian
2.Manners T5 or McMillan A5
3.

Trigger (pro's / cons??)
1.Timney Calvin Elite
2.BixnAndy trigger.
3.

Rail
1.Standard 20 MOA
2.Standard machined to 50 MOA
3.

Rings / Bases
1.Nightforce ultralite
2.Nightforce ultralite
3.

Scopes (I can't believe I opened that can of worms . . . let's keep it between NF, Swaro, Huskemaw).
1.Nightforce 2.5-10x42
2.Nightforce AtacR with Moar-T
3.

Muzzle Break
1.Harrels baffle or small Muscle brake.
2.Assassin brake
3.

Recoil Pad
1.OEM
2.OEM
3.

 

[Jud96]

I tend to see two directions, one a do everything hammer or a dedicated long range rig. Personally I would prefer a 338 RUM over the 300 just because any rig I want for everything will get shot a lot so I want barrel life and I tend to be more elk hunting than every thing else. For a dedicated long range I'd run a 338 Lapua AI. I've built both rifles and they were amazing both in intended function and accuracy, the 338 RUM at hunting weight was 10 lbs and the 338 AI was 13 and change.

Barrel (Brand, Contour & Length)
1.Kreiger #5 26 inch length.
2.Brux med palma fluted 30 inch or Hart Sendero at 30 inches.
3.

Action (any pro's / con's??) - Oh, I want to have a drop-out mag.
1.Borden Timberline comes timed with trigger, best machine work available.
2.Stiller Tac 338 single shot, true and time it, Borden needs a Lapua action!!
3.

Bolt (pro's / cons??)
1.
2.
3.

Stocks (Brand, Contour - Aluminum or Glass bedding)
1.Precision Stock Works McMillian
2.Manners T5 or McMillan A5
3.

Trigger (pro's / cons??)
1.Timney Calvin Elite
2.BixnAndy trigger.
3.

Rail
1.Standard 20 MOA
2.Standard machined to 50 MOA
3.

Rings / Bases
1.Nightforce ultralite
2.Nightforce ultralite
3.

Scopes (I can't believe I opened that can of worms . . . let's keep it between NF, Swaro, Huskemaw).
1.Nightforce 2.5-10x42
2.Nightforce AtacR with Moar-T
3.

Muzzle Break
1.Harrels baffle or small Muscle brake.
2.Assassin brake
3.

Recoil Pad
1.OEM
2.OEM
3.

I just have a question, why a 2.5-10x42 on a .338 Lapua AI? This is a scope better suited for a short to mid range rifle in my opinion. Why not just the 5.5-22x50, has a lot more versatility.

 

[bigngreen]

I just have a question, why a 2.5-10x42 on a .338 Lapua AI? This is a scope better suited for a short to mid range rifle in my opinion. Why not just the 5.5-22x50, has a lot more versatility.

I would not put it on the Lapua, I tried to list it out as #1 would be the RUM which is light enough and balances so well you can take it into the timber and go after them anywhere and the larger NF ends up limiting you in the close to mid range.

 

[Jud96]

I would not put it on the Lapua, I tried to list it out as #1 would be the RUM which is light enough and balances so well you can take it into the timber and go after them anywhere and the larger NF ends up limiting you in the close to mid range.

I would just go with a 3-15x NF for close to mid range shots and woods hunting. I believe 5.5x might be a little to much for really close shots in the woods, but the top end 22x is worth it for those long range shots. I prefer a 4-16x scope for an all purpose rifle, so a 5.5-22x would just give a nice boost in magnification for those extended shots.

 

[bigngreen]

I would just go with a 3-15x NF for close to mid range shots and woods hunting. I believe 5.5x might be a little to much for really close shots in the woods, but the top end 22x is worth it for those long range shots. I prefer a 4-16x scope for an all purpose rifle, so a 5.5-22x would just give a nice boost in magnification for those extended shots.

The thread is your favorite build components, for me I really, really like the more compact size of the 2.5-10 vs the 3-15 for an all round rifle that may be in and out of backpacks or on and of horses and just thrashed around. The 3-15 is excellent though just not my favorite