Short(er) barreled .338 RUM

[Bravo 4]

Trying to get opinions and possible experiences with a short barrel .338. I have a 26" .338 RUM for a more carry friendly rifle. I also have a suppressor that I can use on it, but obviously that makes it a less ideal for a carry do-all. I was thinking of cutting the barrel back to about 22" to make it more friendly with the suppressor. I already have a load that throws 300 grain projos a little over 2800 fps. I suspect about 100 fps loss...what say you? Worth it? Or just leave the suppressor off (rather not, I would like to make good on the expense and it shoots tighter groups with it on).
This will be my primary hunting rifle; deer and elk to 800-1000 yards depending on performance.
Also thinking about trying the 250 Bergers.

For really long ranges I have a 30" barreled .338 Edge and .408 so I have that covered.

 

[HARPERC]

Especially as you have rifles to fill that slot I would change it.

I'm kind of in a phase where having the rifle configured for a specific purpose, is more important to me than chambering a specific cartridge, or getting full ballistic advantage out of a cartridge. Still important but maybe not top of the list.

 

[Bravo 4]

I've got "regular" hunting rifles (30-06, .308, .243) but they are all right handed, I'm not. Whenever I pick them up I feel like I'm compromising. The 30-06 is probably gonna get sold, the shorty .308 will probably get rebarreled for f-class, and the .243 is for my daughter.
This one will be the workhorse.
The load I have for it is with 300 grain SMK's and will feed from the factory internal box mag. I just loaded a dummy round with a 300 grain Berger to fit in the mag and the bullet was in there DEEP. I may give them a go but like I said previously, think I'll try some 250's. Or just quit tinkering.
Screw it, it's going tomorrow! What's the worse that could happen?!

 

[J E Custom]

I've got "regular" hunting rifles (30-06, .308, .243) but they are all right handed, I'm not. Whenever I pick them up I feel like I'm compromising. The 30-06 is probably gonna get sold, the shorty .308 will probably get rebarreled for f-class, and the .243 is for my daughter.
This one will be the workhorse.
The load I have for it is with 300 grain SMK's and will feed from the factory internal box mag. I just loaded a dummy round with a 300 grain Berger to fit in the mag and the bullet was in there DEEP. I may give them a go but like I said previously, think I'll try some 250's. Or just quit tinkering.
Screw it, it's going tomorrow! What's the worse that could happen?!

The 338 RUM is a very good cartridge and will still be a power house with a short barrel. If you go to 22'' barrel you may find that that muzzle blast may be to much with the 300 grain bullets and velocity loss will be very evident. For that setup 22'' to 24'' I would recommend the 225 or 250 grain bullets to get the optimum performance and overall distance advantage.

I hunted with a 338 RUM for years and found the 250 grain bullet to give me the best total performance at 1200 to 1300 yards. I also have a 338 RCM that weights less than 6.5 pounds dressed and loaded and it has a 23" barrel that loves the 225 grain Accubonds.

You will give up some of the 338 RUMs power but you may gain a real handy rifle with lots of power
that will take any North American game. (Test it on Hogs) to find out what bullet will best serve you.

J E CUSTOM

 

[HARPERC]

JE,

Regarding muzzle blast and suppressors, given an appropriate suppressor, will increasing the muzzle blast, change the end result?

Not sure I've got that worded correctly.

 

[J E Custom]

JE,

Regarding muzzle blast and suppressors, given an appropriate suppressor, will increasing the muzzle blast, change the end result?

Not sure I've got that worded correctly.

I'm not sure about the effects on the suppressor except it will have to deal with more un-burnt powder.

Shorter barreled weapons tend to burn more powder outside of the barrel creating more muzzle flash
and noise/blast. In one of the test of my muzzle brake, (It all but eliminates the signature/ flash) but with the 6'' to 11'' barreled AK it produced a 2 foot round fire ball that you would just have to see to believe.

Pistol suppressors don't have to deal with huge amounts of slow burning powder and function well
with pistol powder and small charges.

In testing rifles with muzzle brakes shorter barrels had considerably more muzzle flash and brakes were less effective.

In theory, the Suppressor will have to deal more potential pressure and consume un burnt powder.

It will be interesting to find out. Please let us know how it does.

J E CUSTOM

 

[HARPERC]

Thanks!

 

[Bravo 4]

Yes a short barrel can have more effect on a suppressor. Some manufacturers put a minimum barrel length on theirs as a warning. I've read about several 20" or shorter barreled .338's destroying well established company's suppressors.

Thanks for the responses guys, they reinforce what I was thinking. I have been researching this, I kinda get an idea in my head and obsess on it. I just dropped the rifle off and was told it may be done this week.
When I get it back I'm gonna run the same load through it to see what the velocity loss is.

 

[HARPERC]

Good to know. I've been going through the safe trying to decide which one to suppress.

 

[Bravo 4]

Good to know. I've been going through the safe trying to decide which one to suppress.

When you make the decision, call the suppressor manufacturer and speak to them about it.
I have one can, it is for the biggest bore diameter I shoot (a smallish .510). The manufacturer made it strong enough for my .408 Cheytac, .338 Edge and RUM, plus my .308. It's large enough to have the internal capacity to make all of them ear safe yet not unwieldy.

 

[Bravo 4]

Screw it, it's going tomorrow! What's the worse that could happen?!

Well I spoke too soon! This thing went from a great shooting rifle to a turd, from well under .5" @ 100 to 1.25"+. After trying my original load (300gr Matchking, 96.6gr of RL33 @ 2810 fps) for comparison and only getting 2450 fps, I have tried to build a load for the past 3 days. I tried 250 Bergers, 300 Bergers, and 300 Matchkings with 7828, RL25, RL33, H1000, and Retumbo as well as Fed215 and CCI250 primers. Checked the actions screws and remounted the rings to check tightness and then even tried another scope. Shot the barrel both stripped clean and fouled. Checked the stock for any deficiency and the barrel for any contact with the stock. The new crown also doesn't have any noticeable burrs or imperfections. I also shot it with and without the brake and suppressor.
The only thing I can think of is the smith said he had removed the mount and had a hard time with it, he said he loctited it down. I checked the mount and it didn't move and the screws seemed tight. I'll remove the scope again and check the mount again. If not that then I'ma re-bed it then the only other option is rebarrel.

 

[HARPERC]

Ouch! I hope you can find where it comes together again.

 

[AZShooter]

I would think the problem would be the direct result of the work done. It was recrowned and disassembled. Any other work?

Perhaps the front scope base screw got mixed up so a longer one was placed there. It could bottom out on the threads of the barrel causing the base to remain loose.

The crown MAY look good but still be poor. Can you get to a bore scope for a careful inspection? I have seen this on many occasions with my borescope.

I would also remove the rifle from the stock and reinstall. Perhaps there is some foreign material in the inletting or the mag box is binding.


I can't believe that a load that shot well would suddenly go sour just because the barrel was shortened.

 

[WildRose]

I can see why youd like to do this and yes, using the same powder youll give up probably around 100-150fps.

You might however be able to achieve the same velocity by going down to a slightly faster burning powder and still not have pressure problems.

Might be worth a try.