Remington Long Range

Hey guy's. I purchased one in 300RUM Stainless Monday. Sale price + already have brass, components and dies from a previous, so why not.
Replacement parts on the way: I like the heavy Choate Tactical stock and not sure yet if I should take to the Smithy to have the action trued up and the barrel threaded for a brake?
My main question is, how is the trigger on these new Rems, should I swap that out too?
 
I swapped mine out after after trying to adjust it. There are members here who have had success with getting the factory triggers adjusted. I think it comes down to personal preference.
 
Hey guy's. I purchased one in 300RUM Stainless Monday. Sale price + already have brass, components and dies from a previous, so why not.
Replacement parts on the way: I like the heavy Choate Tactical stock and not sure yet if I should take to the Smithy to have the action trued up and the barrel threaded for a brake?
My main question is, how is the trigger on these new Rems, should I swap that out too?

Swap the trigger... Timney, Jewell, or Trigger Tech are all good options.
 
So the "new" x trigger adjustable is manageable or just ****?! I sold ALL my Remmy bolt guns years ago, because of crap factory build quality and went ALL Barrel Nutty. The price of the new stainless 700LR was too much to pass up.
 
The trigger is not great. I think I got mine down to a little under 4lb. I have left the gun bone stock as I have several other projects going. I'm in mine $500 after the rebate last year and it is a great gun for shooting steel and rocks. I did shoot a coyote at 490 yds with it.
I would shoot it before messing with the action. When you have the barrel threaded have the crown recut usually this will get you all the accuracy you are going to get from the factory barrel.
 
So the "new" x trigger adjustable is manageable or just ****?! I sold ALL my Remmy bolt guns years ago, because of crap factory build quality and went ALL Barrel Nutty. The price of the new stainless 700LR was too much to pass up.

The XMP triggers are junk, in my opinion. I remove them immediately if I buy a rifle that has one.
 
The trigger is not great. I think I got mine down to a little under 4lb. I have left the gun bone stock as I have several other projects going. I'm in mine $500 after the rebate last year and it is a great gun for shooting steel and rocks. I did shoot a coyote at 490 yds with it.
I would shoot it before messing with the action. When you have the barrel threaded have the crown recut usually this will get you all the accuracy you are going to get from the factory barrel.

Also, while the smith is blueprinting the action and before he re-crowns the barrel, he needs to hand-lap the bore.
 
Also, while the smith is blueprinting the action and before he re-crowns the barrel, he needs to hand-lap the bore.

It depends on who was making barrels I suppose. My lr in 300rum has a pretty smooth barrel and has required no work to clean easily or shoot well. My trigger was actually rather good too... I did have to mill down the extractor rivet a bit to have clearance for brass that has been swelled a bit with many firings, but it wasn't necessary with fresh brass.
 
It depends on who was making barrels I suppose. My lr in 300rum has a pretty smooth barrel and has required no work to clean easily or shoot well. My trigger was actually rather good too... I did have to mill down the extractor rivet a bit to have clearance for brass that has been swelled a bit with many firings, but it wasn't necessary with fresh brass.

If I drop off an a box of parts at the smith and he's using a factory barrel, I have him automatically hand-lap the bores. Doesn't cost me any extra, and nothing but positives results from the process. Break-in is also a breeze afterwards. :cool:
 
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