Reloading Manuals?

[J E Custom]

I'm glad to see some embracing the older manuals. I find that I prefer them to the new books, both for their information and for their lack of "Lawyer Loads". When I see a new book list a max load for an enduring powder in a common for caliber bullet weight that is markedly lower than my older manuals I loose a lot of respect for that new(er) manual.

What really concerns me is when the cartridge is too new for the older manuals. How do I know what is the real max load w/o venturing out into the danger zone?

I am not a fan of max loads any more, but I do like to get good performance from a cartridge within reasonable pressure limits and most of the newer manuals were written by lawyers. A good example of this was when the 7 STW first came out there was no ammo for it and we had to use 8 mm rem cases and work up loads our selves. I managed to get 3530 ft/sec with a 140 grain partition without excessive pressures.

Then came the day that A Square came out with loaded ammo with the proper head stamp and I bought 8 boxes and found it to be good ammo. They listed the velocity @ 3500 ft/sec, it was hot, but the pressure was within SAMMI recommendations.

Now If you look in the loading manuals of today, they list the maximum velocity as 3380 ft/sec.
loaded ammo is listed at 3300. with my load 3600 ft/sec was a max load with a 140 grain bullet.
I pushed mine to 3750 before I started having problems and had to back off. (This was before I became wiser about shooting High pressure loads).

The point is everyone needs to work up their own loads for their rifle and use the posted data for a starting point, and start with a mild listed load not the max listed because they may/could be over max in your rifle and with your setup.

The new manuals may be looking at the inexperienced new reloaders that want to start at Max listed loads for their sake.

J E CUSTOM

 

[ntsqd]

JE, I know what you're saying. I don't look at max loads as a starting point, that's a fool's decision. I look at them as the outer boundary, as the "there be dragons beyond here" work short of there kind of thing. But when that has been artificially lowered by a lawyer it renders the whole thing useless.

 

[Stiltsville]

You like old manuals ? You better never use the Speer Wildcat one ! Scary stuff in there !

 

[MagnumManiac]

I always reference the bullet manufacturer AFTER I reference the powder manufacturer.
I have had issue with just referencing a bullet manufacturer manual using different bullets.

Personally, I have powder manuals from Alliant, Hodgdon, ADI & Winchester.
Bullet manufacturer manuals from Speer, Nosler, Berger, Woodleigh & Norma.
I had the Lyman manual, but it was lent and never returned. I also have Lee manuals, but they are no longer relevant with no new powders.

Cheers.

 

[ntsqd]

You like old manuals ? You better never use the Speer Wildcat one ! Scary stuff in there !

Goes looking for......

 

[milo-2]

Reloading manuals are great to have, I suggest buying Quickload software. I kept the Berger and buy new Hornady manuals when they come out. But being adept with QL will do anything a manual can, and more.

 

[Scrubbird]

Suggest you get hold of Earl Naramore's Principles & Practices of Loading Ammunition.
Scrubbird

 

[J E Custom]

Everyone needs to keep in mind that all Reloading data is based on standard SAMMI chamber dimensions and COAL, When you change the freebore, Neck dimension and seat against the lands
pressure is no longer what the load manuals intended it to be.

So you must start low and work up especially if you don't run standard dimension in the chamber or the ammo.

J E CUSTOM

 

[milo-2]

Everyone needs to keep in mind that all Reloading data is based on standard SAMMI chamber dimensions and COAL, When you change the freebore, Neck dimension and seat against the lands
pressure is no longer what the load manuals intended it to be.

So you must start low and work up especially if you don't run standard dimension in the chamber or the ammo.

J E CUSTOM

Let me add brass case capacity also, pays to read what brand of brass used.

 

[ntsqd]

That was an early lesson that I got, fortunately from a sage advisor and not the hard way: Look at the whole recipe used in a load book, not just the bullet and powder. What is each component used to get their results? If you're not using exactly the same set of components then you need to start low and work your way up.
The firearm it was shot in also is part of the equation, can not ignore that part either.

 

[Blackhawk]

So I am a beginner Reloader. I purchased the new Nosler Manual. I believe I should have a few more for reference to go along with Sierra Online, Barnes Online and Hodgdon Online.

Im considering getting both the Lyman 50th as well as the Hornady 10th, thoughts?

Other than Berger (which they will email) are these good manuals to compliment my Nosler?

Thanks
Steve

Since You Have Asked !
Yes the Reloading Books that you have chosen are reliable recipe books, You can obtain hard copy books or download what you need directly off the specialized Web Sites.( some are free , others you must pay for)
I use a lot of Horandy, Sierra ,and Barnes bullets so I rely on these manufactures for Starting load data only !
I will start with a load at a - 10% reduction from maximum powder and -.020" ojive (jump) and increase powder in varying increments marking each brass case with the amount of powder .( read about ladder testing )
Shooting in round Robbin fashion I will fire one round at a time into six targets until I have fired a total of 24 rounds.
4 rounds of the same powder weight and bullet configuration into one target.
I will continue until all 24 rounds have been fired .I will measure my bullet groupings in as listed below in order to determine my lowest SD & ES numbers.
My trusty Magneto-speed V3 chronograph at my side I will use the Satterlee , and Ladder Test in order to determine which load has given me the lowest ES, SD numbers.
I will continue adding powder incrementally until I am close to maximum recommended load.
Again my chronograph will help me along with the above tests .
Once I have found the optimum powder charge I will adjust my jump -.005 increments and watch my chronograph and targets for results. I will adjust bullet jump until I find my node on the magneto speed and I am for the most part done.

If you do not have a chronograph or other tools at your disposal, please do not despair. After you have chosen all your components use your reloading manuals and load the powder that you have chosen to -10% maximum load . Beforehand check your brass case length and trim your cases to length if over size.. Make certain that you are using the recommended brand and size of primer.
Load to the recommend Overall Cartridge Length ( C.O.A.L. ) listed in your recipe book and you will be done.
This is a good safe place to start.
Take these handloads to your local range and fire them off, noting how they have impacted your target. If you are not satisfied start with only the powder and make small adjustments as described above.
Remember only move in one direction at a time , either powder, or jump but not both together , or you will be asking for a Headache.
Once you are satisfied with your groups and powder load now start working with the ogive (bullet jump) factor adjusting as described above.
With a little time spent you will have achieved a satisfactory as well as round that will shoot well in your rifle.
This is just the tip of the reloading process. It can be as easy or as complex as you make it.
All will depend on your reloading needs and desires !
You can make handloading a very relaxing , enjoyable ,and fun experience.
It all depends on your mind set !
If you find yourself in a quandary , just ask the members of this forum for assistance!
Best Of Luck !!!

All this is called load development and is something all hand loaders perform !
In closing:
One can not have to many reference books at ones disposal !

 

[basinman]

Most everything can be found online and printed. I own a few published manuals but I compiled a reloading manual in binder form. I got most all of the manufacturer's load data for my different calibers online, printed them and put them in the binder by cartridge type. Also, get yourself a notebook to record all of your loads and test results. There is also a free app for your phone (Reload Logbook) that allows you to store all of this information.

 

[Stiltsville]

Agree.

While I use Loaddata.com I also am always looking for old reloading books as they are interesting.

My treasure is my Speer Wildcat one that the lawyers would never allow them to print today.

 

[Lenny Foffa]

I have the Hornady, Nosler, Lyman ,and Berger on my bench. I get updated ones about every 5 years or so. I am old , so many of my loads are just fine for me for 25 years or more. Some times I keep the load, and the carefully matched cases , just try a new bullet, of the same weight. Play with the Coal and Ogive lengths, and see if I can make magic !! About 12 years ago, I discovered the Nosler Ballistic Tip, 130 Grain , for my Weatherby Ultralight , in .270 Win. For me it was amazing on Whitetail Deer. I will leave that one alone.