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Possibly Looking Into the ELR Game

Eric H

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Aug 15, 2017
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I've been looking at the possibility of ELR when I retire possibly 2-3 years and will be at Beginners Level. I'm research the 300 PRC and wondering if anyone has had any experience with thar round along with bullet weight, powders twist of barrel etc.
 
If you are getting into ELR start with a 338 minimum and go 375 if you can swing it. A 30 will do for fun and be able to compete in light gun class but 338 is starting point for the farther stuff. The splash is invaluable, anyone who's done it will tell you this. I'd go either 338 Lap AI or 33XC at the minimum and 375 Cheytac would be my choice.

If you are stuck on a 30 the PRC will do fine. 230 or 250 A-tips are hard to argue with or 245 Bergers.
 
If you are getting into ELR start with a 338 minimum and go 375 if you can swing it. A 30 will do for fun and be able to compete in light gun class but 338 is starting point for the farther stuff. The splash is invaluable, anyone who's done it will tell you this. I'd go either 338 Lap AI or 33XC at the minimum and 375 Cheytac would be my choice.

If you are stuck on a 30 the PRC will do fine. 230 or 250 A-tips are hard to argue with or 245 Bergers.
Would the 300 PRC be a 8, 9 or 10 twist?
 
Would the 300 PRC be a 8, 9 or 10 twist?
Depends on your bullet. There are several Ballistic "Twist" Calculater programs out there. For a quick ref we us Berger.


Going into the ELR you could trade up to a 338LM, AI, 338NM, or 375 CheyTac.
BTW if going with 338 and a 300gr OTM use a 1:9.3 twist.
You are going to need really GREAT everything! Rests, Glass, Spotter, Reloading and at least 3,500+ yards of accessible land. You will be using 1K yds to tune your rifle in and then 1 Mile after that you will always keep stretching the legs on your rifles!

When you do decide on a cartridge start stocking up on components. Nothing worse than spending a small fortune on a ELR and then can't get components.
 
and at least 3,500+ yards of accessible land
This requires a properly built and safe backstop. A natural hill or small mountain is great because you don't have to pay to build one. Remember the splash factor.

The .300 PRC is a terrifically popular cartridge but that is not necessarily a great qualification for ELR. Sure you can get some distant shooting but not as good as stepping up to a better .338 cartridge, not an Edge either.

The .338 Norma Mag or the improved version is probably the better of the pedestrian cartridges. While others disagree, the Norma Mag provides pleasure when trying to obtain longer distances instead of more and harder work when starting with the .30 caliber cartridges. There are a ton of bullets and powders for the .338 NM which are suited to longer ranges.

Enjoy the process!

:)
 
Rarely do I 'push' any cartridge or load. What I wrote was:

The .338 Norma Mag or the improved version is probably the better of the pedestrian cartridges.

Note the term 'probably' and 'pedestrian' in the sentence. It's a suggestion for a cartridge in common use.

I was enamored with the .338 Lapua when it was initially introduced like everyone else, especially because the U.S. military flocked to it so it must have been worth it. ;)

For my uses, the Norma Mag case is better suited. That doesn't mean that other opinions regarding the Lapua aren't just as valid. The Norma Mag works for me, whether in the .300 or the .338 case.

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I'm research the 300 PRC and wondering if anyone has had any experience with thar round along with bullet weight, powders twist of barrel etc.
Have one, like it for what it is. Love it's slightly larger cousin 30 Sherman, aka the 300 PRC Improved. I'm taking the 308 caliber to the extreme end of reason with a 30-338 Lapua Improved and a 30XC, yet each of those don't hold a candle to what a 338 Lapua or 338 Norma or 338 Edge will do with half the effort.

It's just flat impossible to understate the inherent advantages of a 300gn 338 at distance. I would go so far as to recommend a factory Savage 338 over a custom 300 PRC, because the exterior ballistics tilt so heavily towards 338.

To directly answer the questions:
300 PRC I would do a 9 twist to start with and shoot 208-230gn Bergers. I have 6, 8, and 9 twists in the big 30 cals, it's entirely bullet-dependent once you go faster than 9 IMO. The 6 will twist a cup and core in half, yet the 8 won't stabilize the biggest monos. Barrels twists are purpose-selected from the start for what they'll shoot. 9 will get you going and run a pretty wide variety of bullets. But NOT the heaviest because there's pretty much just one - the Berger 245. The heavy 308 cal SMKs are meh to me, I'd rather run a lighter VLD.

Powders, start with H1000. It's easy and forgiving, but not the fastest. From there move on to Retumbo, IMR 7828 SSC, VV565/568. H1000 is normally the easy button for tuning a load to group, and if you're shooting a 300 PRC out past a mile you'll need the grouping more than speed. So what if you go transonic 50 yards sooner, once you're in it you're in it and the only way out is through.
 
Light gun bare minimum for me would be 300 Norma or 338 L AI of some sort. The 33 xc is a sweet round but tubb is the only source for anything. I hate being tied down like that. Heavy gun 375 cheytac would be my first choice, but I'm laying it up and building a 416 hellfire for this season. My 375 cheytac below.
 

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I shot several matches last year and plan to shoot more next year. I placed 12th at KO2M, had a great time. The OP needs to decide if he is going to built a "light rifle" (26 pounds and under / 338 caliber and under, with scope and bipod attached, Lapua bolt face or smaller) or a heavy rifle, up to 50 cal and in most classes 40 lbs.

I have not seen a single 300 PRC at any competition, not saying it would not work but the 300 Norma / 300 NMI is the only 30 caliber round I ever see. Most light rifles are 33 XC's. There is no issues getting brass / dies, etc for the XC. Almost everyone who shoots the XC shoots 300 Bergers. If you want a plug and play 33 XC get in contact with GAP (Gnat *** precision in KC) and order one. George has built plenty and knows what he is doing. You can get brass, dies, etc from Superior Shooting Systems.

H1000, N565, N568 with 215 primers and you are off to the races.
 

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