Muzzle Brake - Solder Brake to Barrel?

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by phorwath, May 31, 2015.

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  1. phorwath

    phorwath Well-Known Member

    Apr 4, 2005
    Anyone ever soldered a muzzle brake to the end of a barrel?

    I've got a .375 Weatherby with a muzzle diameter of 0.650". Rifle weighs ~7 1/2 lbs without any scope mounted. I fired three rounds prone and became nauseous about 15 minutes later, wearing a sissy pad on my shoulder. The kick isn't tolerable as is, and the barrel doesn't have enough steel to comfortably thread, according to some of the recommendations I've read.

    I'm considering purchasing a 5/8 -24 thread brake and lathing out the threads to match the diameter of the barrel. Then soldering the brake on the muzzle.

    Any reason why this shouldn't be done? This is a factory Sako, close range use rifle with a 22 1/2" long barrel.
  2. IdahoCTD

    IdahoCTD Well-Known Member

    Oct 22, 2008
    I personally would thread it long with 5/8x24 threads and do a locking nut like a Savage barrel nut. I've done a few of them that way. If I was going to do it any other way I'd probably epoxy it on rather than solder and drill it for a roll pin or two (one on each side or top and bottom).
  3. ant12hony

    ant12hony Well-Known Member

    May 25, 2015
    There is the option of clamp on muzzle brakes!!
  4. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

    Nov 24, 2008
    A guy could have it ported then reamed just over bullet diameter. I've seen a couple done this way and while it was not as significant of recoil reduction as a regular method it certainly was better than nothing and it did not compromise the barrel.
  5. Lefty7mmstw

    Lefty7mmstw Well-Known Member

    May 13, 2012
    I have spoken with my Dad about this... he's done electronics and communications work for 40+ years. He's of the opinion that it is a no go; it would likely fracture the joint within a few shots and fly off. The tinning of the joint would also be a major issue... not to mention the heat needed to make a proper silver solder joint. You are talking nearly a red hot barrel... You also have issues with the barrel taper creating a poor joint with only the narrow point really bonding at all.
    You will need to know the composition of materials to see if they will work together also... You will likely need to talk to Sako on this.

    He's of the opinion that a port job... ie. magna-port is your best option.
  6. Hired Gun

    Hired Gun Well-Known Member

    Apr 21, 2003
    This is getting really stupid.

    Did you know Weatherby sells .378 and .416 Weatherby rifles with a 5/8-24 Accubrake on them?

    The Browning Boss in .338 and .375 is 5/8-24.

    On a .375 you have lots of barrel left.

    Just don't let some hack put it on with a thread relief.

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