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Just got a new rifle, now what? What would you guys do? What's next?
- Thread starter Savage88
- Start date
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Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
What is your goal?
What to do next depends on your budget and how fast you want to get shooting. Odds are you can find bases, rings and a cheap scope and be shooting tomorrow afternoon, but that might not be your objective. gun)
Do you have plans for the bases, rings, scope and stock?
Would you upgrade all at once or over a period of time?
Will you be planning to use factory ammo or reloading?
What to do next depends on your budget and how fast you want to get shooting. Odds are you can find bases, rings and a cheap scope and be shooting tomorrow afternoon, but that might not be your objective. gun)
Do you have plans for the bases, rings, scope and stock?
Would you upgrade all at once or over a period of time?
Will you be planning to use factory ammo or reloading?
pyroducksx3
Well-Known Member
My buddy's 110 savage in 270 win shoots lights out. The only thing I would recommend is a Timney trigger and a quality base, rings and scope and start shooting the hell out of it
ToKeepAndBear
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2011
- Messages
- 74
Get a quality scope/rings, learn how to reload if you don't already, get zeroed, and get to shooting. I suggest you start shooting practical long range rifle competitions. You have to learn to shoot from all kinds of awkward positions and do it quickly. You will figure out pretty quickly what works and what does not!
TKAB
TKAB
When I get a new rifle I pretty much go through the same process every time. I check the fit of the stock and give the rifle a thorough visual inspection. If I intend to keep the factory stock mounted, I determine the scope height and acquire the bases/rings for the selected scope I plan to use. I will then check the bedding and barrel clearance/fit determining. If I need supplemental fitting or bedding. If everything looks ok I set the guard screws to specified torque. Savages are notorious for barrel contact with the barrel channel, and very loose guard screws. With the stock off I will test the trigger for crispness and weight. I will adjust it or change it if necessary. I will then clean the barrel/action. I will then mount the rings and scope, making sure the all is correct with base screw depth, and alignment, and if necessary lap the rings. I will finally make sure the scope is plumb on the bench and do an initial bore sighting with my collimator. Off to range for break in, load testing, and tall target test. If there is anything that looks suspicious upon initial inspection and leads me to believe that the rifle has an inherent flaw or quality problem, I will not make any modifications that would inhibit replacement or repair by the manufacturer. I may or may not test it on the range for confirmation.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
float it, bed it (install pillars while you are at it) put a good solid rail scope mount on it and buy the best glass you can possibly afford.
I wouldn't even shoot it until you get the above done as in all likelihood you'll just end up wasting a lot of time and money on ammo and you'll end up having to do the floating and bedding anyhow.
wbm
Well-Known Member
If it is a new Savage 111 it will already have pillars and be free floated. If it has an Accu-Trigger, I would not spend $100 for a Timney (great trigger) unless you don't care for the Accu-Trigger. Shoot the Savage before you do anything else. Find where the weak points of the rifle are and go from there.
Don't bed under or in front of the recoil lug. Most of us Savage shooters just bed the front and rear receiver rests and the rear of the recoil lug recess. Don't cover up the top of your pillars with bedding and leave the tang free floated. If you have a synthetic stock, there is a mold release agent on the stock that tends to keep bedding material from adhering well. The 300 WM is known to be a very accurate caliber but it does have it's downside. Recoil! If your Savage is a lighter weight model with the synthetic stock you will find that most factory ammunition will get your undivided attention when you touch one off. If you are not recoil sensitive all the better but if you are (screw the macho bit) then I would work on mitigating that factor before you begin to "accurize" your Savage. I would also look into a laminate aftermarket stock like Boyd's Prairie Hunter.
Don't bed under or in front of the recoil lug. Most of us Savage shooters just bed the front and rear receiver rests and the rear of the recoil lug recess. Don't cover up the top of your pillars with bedding and leave the tang free floated. If you have a synthetic stock, there is a mold release agent on the stock that tends to keep bedding material from adhering well. The 300 WM is known to be a very accurate caliber but it does have it's downside. Recoil! If your Savage is a lighter weight model with the synthetic stock you will find that most factory ammunition will get your undivided attention when you touch one off. If you are not recoil sensitive all the better but if you are (screw the macho bit) then I would work on mitigating that factor before you begin to "accurize" your Savage. I would also look into a laminate aftermarket stock like Boyd's Prairie Hunter.
SidecarFlip
Well-Known Member
When you do shoot it, follow the Savage recommended break in procedure to the letter.
