Barrel cleaning

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by blackfly, Oct 2, 2011.

  1. blackfly

    blackfly Member

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    My question is, How much is enough?
    I always start out with Hoppes #9,mixed with a little Kroil oil to remove powder and primer fouling. Once I'm satisfied, I then switch to Bore Tech's Eliminator, and work on the copper fouling. If it's been a long day at the range,I may use something stronger, like Sweets 7.62 or Shooter's Choice Copper Remover only a couple of times, always being careful to follow their directions and not let it remain in the barrel. Then I finish up the final cleaning with Bore Tech or Hoppes until I get a clean patch. I then run a wet patch through the barrel and put the gun away.
    Later, prior to shooting, when I run a clean dry patch through the barrel,there will be a bit of color indicating additional copper has been removed.I suspect this is from the small cracks and fissures in the barrel's metal.

    Does removing this last bit of "hidden copper" cause the barrel to go back to sort of a pre-seasoning condition?

    And, does this affect the accuracy or ballistics until after a couple rounds are fired, which again fills up those microscopic areas?

    At what point is the barrel "clean"?
     
  2. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    Sounds to me like you are leaving copper in the tube. I have tested many cleaners including all the ones you mentioned and the Boretech eliminator is the best at removing copper fouling. I would suggest you take a day and wet patch with the boretech every 10 minutes (4 wet patches) letting it soak in between. It will take a ton of patches and time if you have a major fouled tube especially if solid coppers like Barnes bullets have been used.

    A nylon brush can speed things a little too. Wet it well and use in 20 strokes at a time being very careful not to damage the crown of the barrel by letting it flop out and yanking it back. I would limit this process to 1 or 2 times per cleaning.

    Once you finally get that bore clean the following shots can start to smooth the rough areas that are holding the copper. Then the rifle will clean easier each time.

    There are many opinions about cleaning and cleaners. This is what works for me after years of testing products and procedures.

    Jeff
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2011
  3. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

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    +1

    j e custom
     
  4. Dr. Vette

    Dr. Vette Well-Known Member

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    I've also gotten a "touch of blue" from the jag or the threaded tip of a Tipton carbon fiber cleaning rod. Drove me nuts until I figured it out and noted the brass tip of the rod. Just a note to double check and be sure it's not a "false positive" you're seeing.
     
  5. WildRose

    WildRose Well-Known Member

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    I really like the "Foaming bore cleaner" by Gunslick. When it runs clear after two successive cleanings you know you have a clean bore.

    After initial break-in though I'm not a freak at all about keeping one clean. When I think about it I'll blow them out with carburetor cleaner or bore scrubber, dry patch them, the put a little white lithium grease in and dry patch it and leave it.

    If I'm getting ready for a hunt and clean one thoroughly the first thing I'll do when I'm done is to fire about three "fouling shots" and then store it with the lithium grease/dry patch having been performed.

    If you aren't literally cleaning after every shot you'll never be able to replicate the first cold bore/clean bore shot in the field. My field guns stay in "field condition" for that reason.
     
  6. HARPERC

    HARPERC Well-Known Member

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    I've been using the foam lately and I like it so far. I also like the Outer's electronic cleaner.
     
  7. blackfly

    blackfly Member

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    I geuss that I'm just trying to over clean. I'm talking mainly about my .300 WSM and my -06. I usally only spend time at the range shooting about 20 rounds each and only 5 at a time so not to over heat the barrel.
    Dr Vetto.. I've already eliminated the brass tip as a cause. I use to use Dewey rods but after getting a Tipton fiber rod I found there is no compairson, Tipton by far are better
    Broz.. I clean pretty much clean as you do. I think just trying to over doing the cleaning process. I have always used nylon brushes, there will be some out there that will disagree , but I belive the the bronze brushes will scratch the barrel.
     
  8. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    I know what you mean. If you check, that last little stubborn bit of blue will be at the last 2" of the barrel (muzzle end) You can check by using a patch that is just a snug fit and pulling back. It will be clean until you go all the way. That spot is tough to get. I feel it has something to do with the introduction of cold air in the tube after the bullet clears leaving the hot copper to harden. No proof to that, just my theory. Also if the rifles have brakes, the over tightening of the brakes can aggrivate this too.

    BoreTech can be left in as a storage protectant. Then I run a wet and 4 or 5 dry and go to the field. BoreTech is the only cleaner or protectant I have found that will allow first round accuracy. I have tested this with all my LR rifles at extended distances. Some rifles are better than others and that is dependant on the smoothness of the bore. But here is a pic of the first shot from a clean bore at 1395 after a week in the safe, orange circle is 7". I ran 4 or 5 dry patches down the tube and went out and took this shot. I never have liked putting a lube in the bore. It is hard to dry patch it out and will assure a few fouling shots will be needed.

    [​IMG]



    So, I would clean untill you are at least down to a light tinge of blue. And if you get dark stripes from the rifling I would stay after it a little more. LIke I said before, I like to get them clean as possible so he smoothing process can continue and cleaning will become easier as this progresses.

    Jeff
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2011
  9. MSLRHunter

    MSLRHunter Well-Known Member

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    +1 on the Bore Tech Eliminator. I have tried them all and this stuff is the best in my opinion. Plus, the fact that you can leave it in the bore puts it over the top.
     
  10. Broz

    Broz Well-Known Member

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    Cleaned the new 7mm-300 I recently finished today with BTE. Then ran 5 dry patches down the tube and dried it good. Took it out to see if it was on for the first shot, cold bore, freshly cleaned. Center punched a 1" square at 150 yards where it is zeroed. That is "spot on" in my book.

    Jeff gun)---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
     
  11. dig

    dig Well-Known Member

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    I have tried used about everything and after using Wipe Out I am hooked. I foam the barrel leave overnight, patch out then foam again for an hour or so, two to three more patches and some butches gun oil I am done. My match barrels (shilen's and douglas) clean on the first pass every time. I use a brass jag and do get a tiny bit of blue on the tip, when I have used plastic tips they are clean. Great product. If really fouled start with strait Kroil for a couple hours and couple patches. My theory the less I shove down the barely the better.
     
  12. Gunner5607

    Gunner5607 Member

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    Bore Tech's latest cleaning rods have a "proof positive" tip. We you combine the rod with the Proof Positive Jag, you won't get false positives for copper!
     
  13. jeff 300

    jeff 300 Well-Known Member

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    Pro shot copper solvent iv
    I could not believe how much copper came out of my barrels after i started to use this stuff
     
  14. Bravo 4

    Bravo 4 Well-Known Member

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    After break in with JB bore bright I use foam wipeout. Stuff works great, just spray it and leave it over night.