Annealing Services vs Buying an Annealer

[338 dude]

This Induction Annealing sound incredible. Thanks for the great question and all the great answers!!!! Is there a brand name for the induction annealer device??? Do I need an electrician to run power to this unit???? Do I anneal every 4th or 5th reloading session?????

If you have your own I anneal after every firing if you have to send it out I guess that's up to you third or fourth firing I would imagine the machine I have is an amp mark2 but there are many that people make them selves

 

[SteelBanger]

This Induction Annealing sound incredible. Thanks for the great question and all the great answers!!!! Is there a brand name for the induction annealer device??? Do I need an electrician to run power to this unit???? Do I anneal every 4th or 5th reloading session?????

Fluxeon Induction Heat

HOTTER | FASTER | BETTER

fluxeon.com

This looks like a pretty solid unit for a fairly reasonable price, also has a water cooler option. If you're not wanting to DIY a solution this is probably the most economical solution on the consumer market ... that I've seen at least.

Like 338 Dude said, if you have your own machine I'd say you might as well anneal after every firing, that's what I plan on doing at least to maximize consistency from load to load.

 

[338 dude]

Fluxeon Induction Heat

HOTTER | FASTER | BETTER

fluxeon.com

This looks like a pretty solid unit for a fairly reasonable price, also has a water cooler option. If you're not wanting to DIY a solution this is probably the most economical solution on the consumer market ... that I've seen at least.

Like 338 Dude said, if you have your own machine I'd say you might as well anneal after every firing, that's what I plan on doing at least to maximize consistency from load to load.

Check out the amp annealer mark2 with Aztec mode it holds your brass with special pilots for each caliber in just the right position it is actually cheaper than the super Annie but also the Aztec mode analyzes each individual lot of brass and gives you the proper code to anneal them perfectly it actually destroys one piece of brass carries it to the melting point and then knows exactly where to bring all the rest for a perfect anneal

 

[justinp61]

I have been considering building an annealer and while watching videos came upon this. Pretty interesting.

DIY Induction Annealing Brass with .01 second accuracy for $200 - YouTube

 

[BillLarson]

For little more than $100, some simple tools (or high end tools) and a little time and imagination, a nice propane annealer can be fabricated.

View attachment 259766

Please a video...

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

Molten Salt-probably? Higher danger level-definitely! A simple drop of sweat, in the vat, and there's an explosive problem.
It only takes a few minutes to set the speed & propane flame on my annealer.
The salt bath is an involved process and as a handloader, make any process as efficient as possible!
My next project is, a DIY induction annealer....

Jason: I have to suspect you haven't used a salt bath. There is no reason to lean over the salt so sweat can drip into it. While it does have risk (you definitely don't want children around when annealing). so does having a propane flame blowing in your shop. I find the salt bath very simple and quick, as well as inexpensive. I bought the whole setup, including thermometer for monitoring the salt temp, for about $130.

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

Never considered that although I have nothing to do and have no control with how much powder they put in I'm sure a lawyer could drag me through the mud

Whether a lawyer takes the case or not, depends on how much your net worth is, and how much liability insurance you carry. They don't want to take a worthless case to court. They just want to force you or your insurance company to settle out of court to get rid of the case.
This is how the legislators and courts (dominated by trial lawyers) have set up the f***'d up legal system in our country.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Years ago after questioning a major brass manufacturer I was told brass necks needs to get orange or red and then quenched. Getting it red is needed to get the molecules excited or moving. When quenched the brass stays in soft state. It is the opposite of steel as when steel molecules are moving, quenching hardens and stays in that state. I have tested brass elasticity in all stages of annealing and unless it is brought to orange the button will screech and resist as it is sizing neck, indicating little elasticity and still work hardened. Brass gets harder from working as steel gets softer from working. I have annealed hundreds of pieces of brass by standingg brass up in pan half filled with water and heating neck orange with propane torch and knocking over in water. And that changes the molecular structure and softens. Have shot my best groups after annealing in this manner. Just my method

My comments -

If it's getting red, its too hot. You're now past the temperature needed for annealing and the brass is too soft. Feel free to use Google and do more looking.
Or, check out these videos:



If you don't get it too hot, you don't need to put them in water. Water quenching does not stop or help anything with regard to brass annealing.

 

[Shootin4fun]

That's with a savage model 12 . 223with a Timney trigger bartline 1-7.7 barrel 8x32 Sightron and a cheep Caldwell front rest that's it but again that's what works for me

Those freakin Savages! Oh and the Bartline (bull?) barrel... I am happy with groups like those at 100. My stock Savage American with sporter contour barrel 7mmRM does that.

 

[Shootin4fun]

I considered the salt bath method; seems like it would be very consistent. But it forces me to change my routine. I deprime and resize at the same time, and didn't want to have to deprime first before annealing, then resize. I use an Anealeez which has worked pretty well. Annealing keeps my SDs down in the single digit or low double digit range depending on the brass and how often I do it. It's one of the biggest changes I've made in reloading over the last many years. The other was changing over to a powder dispensing scale.

 

[jarnold37]

My comments -

If it's getting red, its too hot. You're now past the temperature needed for annealing and the brass is too soft. Feel free to use Google and do more looking.
Or, check out these videos:



If you don't get it too hot, you don't need to put them in water. Water quenching does not stop or help anything with regard to brass annealing.

Respectfully would like to say that actual experimenting on my part shows that the brass is not soft enough unless red and needs to get that hot to prevent button from resisting and becoming soft as new brass as in Lapua. The person at brass manufacturer said they anneal in steps in manufacturing and test for brunell hardness. He personally anneals after every firing and said red is needed and quenching locks the molecules in their active soft state. Have been able to keep necks consistent for as many as twelve readings and measuring bullet pull the necks are not to soft and comparable to new Lapua brass. Have had no trouble with necks being to soft

 

[Maol]

The complete Amp system just might be worth the bank. I'll see how my DIY flame unit turns out 1st. Still figuring out the gas pressure regulation. Finally found the proximity sensor I am going to use. I'll post the finished unit.

 

[jasonco]

Please a video...

I used Elfster's video and store list.

 

[jasonco]

Jason: I have to suspect you haven't used a salt bath. There is no reason to lean over the salt so sweat can drip into it. While it does have risk (you definitely don't want children around when annealing). so does having a propane flame blowing in your shop. I find the salt bath very simple and quick, as well as inexpensive. I bought the whole setup, including thermometer for monitoring the salt temp, for about $130.

No I have not but, watching it's use, I'l pass. Liquid molten anything has a higher potential for risk. Who in their right mind handloads with distractions?! I have the luxury, to have my loading equipment in my large auto repair shop, where open flames are commonplace, with a dedicated area for handloading. My annealer is portable, so I can do the work, away from highly flammable materials, and purposely built it to be, manual fed, so as to pay attention to each cartridge.