300 wby issue

Here's noslers spec in front of the belt.

I'd definitely get some headspace gauges. I use the hornady.
 

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I've never loaded for a belted magnum case so this is a learning curve for me. If there's anyone around central PA that wouldn't mind teaching a guy I'd appreciate the help
 
Base to front of belt is .215 on factory vs .217 on a nosler piece that wont chamber. Case diameter just in front of the belt is .510 on factory weatherby vs .514 on the nosler.
This is your problem. Chamber one, even if you have to lean on the bolt, then look very closely above the belt for scuffs or shiny marks.
Buy your self a body only die and size the tight ones with it…

Cheers.
 
This is your problem. Chamber one, even if you have to lean on the bolt, then look very closely above the belt for scuffs or shiny marks.
Buy your self a body only die and size the tight ones with it…

Cheers.

Just wanted to do an update on what I found. MagnumManiac is the winner for this topic. I took one case that barely chambered and one that didn't chamber and colored a ring around the case right above the belt with a black sharpie marker. This is definitely where the brass is hitting the chamber. I contacted another member on here and am buying a larry willis collet die. This die is made to deal with exactly this issue. Thanks again guys
 
Just wanted to do an update on what I found. MagnumManiac is the winner for this topic. I took one case that barely chambered and one that didn't chamber and colored a ring around the case right above the belt with a black sharpie marker. This is definitely where the brass is hitting the chamber. I contacted another member on here and am buying a larry willis collet die. This die is made to deal with exactly this issue. Thanks again guys
Bingo.
I haven't run into very many that need it but since I have my 7stw and bought once fired brass I have ended up running most of those through and fixed the problem
 
I have shot enough weatherby 300 to wear out a barrel or two. Great round. Your issue sounds more like die adjustment than anything else. If It does not chamber turn die to shorten 1/8 of a turn. Try empty again. Until the case just starts to tighten on downward bolt closure it is too long. I can't tell from your note but am believing this is a weatherby rifle. Remember freebore varies in weatherby to other rifles shooting a 300. It sounds to me like dies/press is not set up correct. These do not set on belt but the neck.
If this doesn't make sense call Duane at sierra. He can help you I hope this helps. I am trying to share helpful information for you; not assert some opinionated garbage.
 
I have shot enough weatherby 300 to wear out a barrel or two. Great round. Your issue sounds more like die adjustment than anything else. If It does not chamber turn die to shorten 1/8 of a turn. Try empty again. Until the case just starts to tighten on downward bolt closure it is too long. I can't tell from your note but am believing this is a weatherby rifle. Remember freebore varies in weatherby to other rifles shooting a 300. It sounds to me like dies/press is not set up correct. These do not set on belt but the neck.
If this doesn't make sense call Duane at sierra. He can help you I hope this helps. I am trying to share helpful information for you; not assert some opinionated garbage.
This is your problem. Chamber one, even if you have to lean on the bolt, then look very closely above the belt for scuffs or shiny marks.
Buy your self a body only die and size the tight ones with it…

Cheers.

Just wanted to do an update on what I found. MagnumManiac is the winner for this topic. I took one case that barely chambered and one that didn't chamber and colored a ring around the case right above the belt with a black sharpie marker. This is definitely where the brass is hitting the chamber. I contacted another member on here and am buying a larry willis collet die. This die is made to deal with exactly this issue. Thanks again guys

I just updated my findings yesterday. If it is a die issue there's no adjustment left as I did try what was suggested here as to putting paper under the case to take up the slack in the shell holder ensuring the brass is going into the die as far as possible without machining the shell holder. Which I believe if I was to do that the die would bump the shoulder back even further. The sharpie marker left no doubt that the cases are getting tight right in front of the belt. The rifle is a weatherby vanguard first gen.
 
It's good you got it figured out 👍
Thanks. I appreciate everyone's advice. What really threw me off was the new hornady brass being tight to chamber. I marked one of them with the sharpie and it's rubbed in the same spot. I did size them as well before loading so I'm actually wondering if the rcbs die is actually causing the swell there as well? Maybe bumping the shoulder back too much? I'm hoping the larry willis die will save the tight ones and I picked up a set of old weatherby dies that I want to run a couple cases through and see if it helps. I mightve found the issue but not quite the solution yet I guess
 
Don't forgot you shouldn't use the same FL size on different head stamped brass. I have had it oversize and undersize depending on the brass. Gotta keep the brass standard so you don't oversize and get a case head separation. Had my first one a few months ago, due to me switching brass. I oversized my brass and stretched it too much, not I check that I am bumping the shoulder .0015 -.002 inches.
 
Collet dies are very good however be aware of your cases OAL. Trimming case to proper length is good to check even with new brass and especially after firing. You may find you will need to bump back the shoulder with a FL sizing.
It's a good thing to discover brass from various manufacturers and various lots within a given manufacturer have various "spring backs" or memory from the stresses of formation.
I always try any ammo, factory or home rolled, through the action I am going to be using it in before hunting or loading into an arm for self defense. It is a variable I can control before triggering time.
Another thought. I square my primer pockets on the 300 with a carbide cutter I got from Brownells. Chucks to a screwgun and squares base and depth of primer pocket. Assuring primer anvil has an even consistent base to rest upon and thereby a more consistent ignition. Changing this dropped my grouping size significantly.
Thanks for listening!
 
Having loaded for a lot of Weatherby rifles, I knew it was going to be the "belt bulge" issue as soon as I read your first post.

I would run all of your brass through the die so that you start with brass that fits well.

As an FYI, I've not had to use the Willis die once brass is "assigned" to a rifle. Generally the brass doesn't seem to bulge any fatter than the rifle's chamber. However, I will use it on rounds that are going to be used for hunting trips to guarantee it will feed without issue.

With belted cases I treat them the same as others once fired - body die to push back the shoulder 0.002, and then neck sized.
 
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