300 rum Reloading Bolt Won't close sometimes

[baydog]

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!! It's been a while since I have visited here but I got a hair puller problem I can't find the answer to and thought ya'll if you had the time to take a look at what I got going on and any help at all I would very much appreciate! I started on this site last year asking about the Remington Sendero 300 rum I bought and what kind of reload recipes suggestions ya'll had.. I ended up loading some 180gr noslers with the retumbo powder and some 200 gr accubonds with the retumbo powder and everyone was right about the heavier bullets.. The gun definitely likes the heavier bullests...The bigger the better..The problem I have is after reloading about 50 rounds of each grain bullet if have a lot that won't let me close the bolt. If I give the bolt a thump with my hand to try to close it then I have to take a cleaning rod and drop down the barrel to get the round out of the chamber and if I thump hard enough then that piece of brass getsw mushroomed at the top and is trash. I have measured and miked everything and every where I know to..Here are some of the measurements I got;OAL. on one that will chamber go and bolt closes easy is 3.604, one that is bad and won't let me shut bolt 3.596 measure. At top of neck with bullet pressed in good brass .337 bad brass .337 At the top of the brass where it starts to bottle neck good is .523 bad is .524 Middle way the brass good is .535 bad is .535 Very bottom good .548 bad is .548 Good from bottom of the case to the top of the neck is 2.825 bad one is 2.828 any help or suggestions to what to check or look for I would really thank you for..Thanks for your time and help..

Scotty

 

[nosualc]

Have you measured your brass after sizing? Is it too long (have you trimmed)?

Are you neck sizing or FL sizing?

-nosualc

 

[MR.SWIFT]

first what dies are you using. i would encourage you to step up to a set of redding comp. dies or a set of forester comp. dies. it sounds like the dies you are using arent adjusted correctly. if you are only neck sizing i recommend running them through a full length pass then cking for how they chamber.if this corrects the problem then throughly clean the chamber and barrel. i have a 300tejas that does this after reloading the cases about 3 times. tejas is an improved 300rum

 

[Nitroman]

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!! It's been a while since I have visited here but I got a hair puller problem I can't find the answer to and thought ya'll if you had the time to take a look at what I got going on and any help at all I would very much appreciate! I started on this site last year asking about the Remington Sendero 300 rum I bought and what kind of reload recipes suggestions ya'll had.. I ended up loading some 180gr noslers with the retumbo powder and some 200 gr accubonds with the retumbo powder and everyone was right about the heavier bullets.. The gun definitely likes the heavier bullests...The bigger the better..The problem I have is after reloading about 50 rounds of each grain bullet if have a lot that won't let me close the bolt. If I give the bolt a thump with my hand to try to close it then I have to take a cleaning rod and drop down the barrel to get the round out of the chamber and if I thump hard enough then that piece of brass getsw mushroomed at the top and is trash. I have measured and miked everything and every where I know to..Here are some of the measurements I got;OAL. on one that will chamber go and bolt closes easy is 3.604, one that is bad and won't let me shut bolt 3.596 measure. At top of neck with bullet pressed in good brass .337 bad brass .337 At the top of the brass where it starts to bottle neck good is .523 bad is .524 Middle way the brass good is .535 bad is .535 Very bottom good .548 bad is .548 Good from bottom of the case to the top of the neck is 2.825 bad one is 2.828 any help or suggestions to what to check or look for I would really thank you for..Thanks for your time and help..

Scotty

I wanted to read this as I have a .300 but...try some punctuation and paragraphs next time.

 

[TK50]

Have you checked your extractor to make sure you don't have any burrs or problems with it. Some Remingtons have had issues with them in the past.

 

[baydog]

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!! It's been a while since I have visited here but I got a hair puller problem I can't find the answer to and thought ya'll if you had the time to take a look at what I got going on and any help at all I would very much appreciate!

I started on this site last year asking about the Remington Sendero 300 rum I bought and what kind of reload recipes suggestions ya'll had.. I ended up loading some 180gr noslers with the retumbo powder and some 200 gr accubonds with the retumbo powder and everyone was right about the heavier bullets.. The gun definitely likes the heavier bullests...The bigger the better..

The problem I have is after reloading about 50 rounds of each grain bullet if have a lot that won't let me close the bolt. If I give the bolt a thump with my hand to try to close it then I have to take a cleaning rod and drop down the barrel to get the round out of the chamber and if I thump hard enough then that piece of brass gets mushroomed at the top and is trash. I have measured and miked everything and every where I know to..

Here are some of the measurements I got;OAL. on one that will chamber go and bolt closes easy is 3.604, one that is bad and won't let me shut bolt 3.596 measure. At top of neck with bullet pressed in good brass .337 bad brass .337 At the top of the brass where it starts to bottle neck good is .523 bad is .524 Middle way the brass good is .535 bad is .535 at the Very bottom of the good piece of brass .548 bad is .548

Good piece of brass, from bottom of the case to the top of the neck is 2.825 bad one is 2.828.

Any help or suggestions to what to check or look for I really thank you for..Thanks for your time and help..



Scotty

nitro

 

[baydog]

Have you measured your brass after sizing? Is it too long (have you trimmed)?

Are you neck sizing or FL sizing?

-nosualc

Thanks Nosualc

Yes I measured 2 rounds after loading them from the bottom of the case to the top of the neck.. On the round that chambered easy and bolt closed easy I got 2.825 on the round that wouldn't let me close the bolt I measured the exact same way and got 2.828 Didn't think trimming would be necessary but I will if you think I should try it I will. When I look at the Nosler 7 reloading data 2.850 is max.. And yes I resize full length.

Scotty

 

[baydog]

first what dies are you using. i would encourage you to step up to a set of redding comp. dies or a set of forester comp. dies. it sounds like the dies you are using arent adjusted correctly. if you are only neck sizing i recommend running them through a full length pass then cking for how they chamber.if this corrects the problem then throughly clean the chamber and barrel. i have a 300tejas that does this after reloading the cases about 3 times. tejas is an improved 300rum

Thanks Mr. Swift

I am using RCBS full length dies. When I set the resizing die on my Dillon press I pull the handle all the way down and screw my resizing die down until it barley touches the ram. On the seating die with the brass in the shell holder and the ram all the way up I screw the die down until it barely touches then back it of about a half of turn to be sure I'm far enough away from the neck when I press the bullet in. I will clean the chamber and barrel to be sure it's clean of any trash that may be causing some problem. I understand what your saying about cleaning chamber and barrel..trash could cause the round to have to be forced in not allowing the round to go all the way in and seat in the chamber good.

Scotty

 

[baydog]

Have you checked your extractor to make sure you don't have any burrs or problems with it. Some Remingtons have had issues with them in the past.

Thanks TK50

No I haven't check the extractor. But I did have a friend that bought a brand new Sendero and trouble with the extractor. I don't think It would pull the case out after being fired. Had a new extractor sent to him from Remington because Remington said it could be at least a month before he got the gun back. That thing was a bear to put in but that ended up being his problem..I will check it though.

Scotty

 

[nosualc]

Thanks Nosualc
Yes I measured 2 rounds after loading them from the bottom of the case to the top of the neck.. On the round that chambered easy and bolt closed easy I got 2.825 on the round that wouldn't let me close the bolt I measured the exact same way and got 2.828 Didn't think trimming would be necessary but I will if you think I should try it I will. When I look at the Nosler 7 reloading data 2.850 is max.. And yes I resize full length.

Hmm, my manuals also list 2.850 as max. It seems as though you're a long way from needing to trim.

Do your fired (unsized) cases fit easily into the chamber? All of them, some of them, none of them?

How far are your setting the shoulders back when you FL resize? First suspect would be that you are not setting the case shoulders far enough back.

How many shots on your brass?

-nosualc

 

[mooretitan]

How many reloading does your brass have on them and how hot of a load are you using. I have a 300 rum and have had problems both closing a bolt on a round and extracting a fired case. I bought new brass and the problem has gone away.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Just another idea but how difficult is it to pull the expander ball back up through the necks when resizing?
I ask because it is possible to pull the shoulders slightly forward when dragging the expander ball up through the neck. If this happens your cases will be hard to chamber. Guess how I know.

I'd suggest cleaning the inside of your necks with a drill mounted brass brush that has a bit of 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. A worn out cleaning brush of the correct size works great. Using a little Imperial Sizing Wax on a q-tip to lube the neck before sizing will result in a noticeable reduction in drag on the expander ball.
This info was suggested by Sinclair International when I was experiencing a problem similar to yours.

It is not "necessary" to remove the lube after sizing. Sinclair told me they "shoot it out". If it bothered you than a q-tip with alcohol should do the trick.

Just something else for you to explore - Good luck.

 

[CogburnR]

Screw your resizer down until it hits the ram pretty hard or cams over, barely touching may not be enough.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

..I am using RCBS full length dies.

Nothing wrong with RCBS. I have RCBS and Redding for the RUM based chamberings I load for and shoot.

When I set the resizing die on my Dillon press...

I have a 650 and would not resize RUMs on it. Too much flex in the base plate. IMO You will break it before you can bump the shoulder.

What I believe after reading this far is that:

You have a wide, short chamber. Not a bad thing but...
When you resize you are reducing the diameter of the case but the shoulder is "moving" up. Think squeezing a balloon. Which is a great metaphor for cases anyway. In many ways then are balloons with a cork in them......

so You are not bumping the shoulder back far enough. IMO you will break your Dillon if you try.

IIWM:

• Get a single state press to resize the RUM brass in. Something fairly strong. Get the Recommended RCBS shell holder, it's on the box and I think its a #38 but could be a #4.
• Get a Hornady headspace comparator. Measure a fired case that will rechamber nicely, on the shoulder per the instructions, then measure a sized case. Adjust your die until the sized case is .001 to .003 shorter.

You can keep using the Dillon for the remainder of the reloading process just without the sizing die.


When I use my Dillon for rifle reloading, I do this or similar:

• Clean the brass.
• Resize without the expander ball.
• Clean off lube.
• Use the Dillon to complete the reloading process. Instead of a resize die in the first position, a neck expander die. The rest is the same.