Browning x bolt muzzle break 300 RUM

[Jnm300ultra]

Today I was at my local Sportsman's Wharehouse and picked up a new 300 RUM.
I picked up a new Hell's Canyon long range 300 RUM. The muzzle break is threaded for a 5/8"x24 radial break. I'm wondering if I should try the factory break or just buy a better break a gill break? My thoughts were a ti salmon river or a ti MBM. I was thinking a 4-5 slot break for this caliber. Just wanted to see if anyone else has this rifle and if the break was effective before I buy a new break. The rifle is 7.3 pounds and I'm planning on having the rifle weigh 9.5 lbs loaded. I could always just shot it and see, but wanted see if anyone had tried this rifle and how it shots.
Thanks guys,
Jason

 

[Reemty J]

Factory brake is garbage, unless they have changed them

 

[Jnm300ultra]

They did change to a newer break but it's an upgrade. It's called Hawg muzzle break. For $135.00 I think I should try a larger port break.
Thanks for telling me that they are garbage. Time for a new break.
Jason

 

[RockyMtnUT]

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[RockyMtnUT]

They did change to a newer break but it's an upgrade. It's called Hawg muzzle break. For $135.00 I think I should try a larger port break.
Thanks for telling me that they are garbage. Time for a new break.
Jason

They aren't garbage,far from it. He is talking the old radial thin port one that does very minimal. Hawg is just fine. Shoot it then come back back and give a report about how you saved money by not buying a new one.

 

[Jnm300ultra]

They aren't garbage,far from it. He is talking the old radial thin port one that does very minimal. Hawg is just fine. Shoot it then come back back and give a report about how you saved money by not buying a new one.

Sorry for the confusion, the break that I have is the radial break not the new Hawg model. If I had the Hawg model I would be trying it out first. I just don't want to waste powder and time on a hard kicking mule.
Thanks,
Jason

 

[Chadp82]

I have an older browning with BOSS, and the brake is fine. There is a big difference between the browning and the CR system. It is a 280 Rem so nowhere near the 300 RUM. I realize the boss brake isn't the same as the newer radial style they use.

I am not sure if they match the threads, but I have a holland brake on a 300 win mag (not a browning), and very pleased. Took it from a rough day at the range to being on the order of a 243, maybe even less recoil.

 

[Jnm300ultra]

My other 2 brake I have are:
APA GEN 1 micro bastard brake on a 300 win mag and it works great.
The other is a MBM brake on my 280 Ackley and it's like a 243. Both brake's are 3 ports. I have heard many good things about Holland's brakes.
Thanks,
Jason

 

[Darryle]

Measure the thread length on the barrel, I have 2 X-Bolt 6.5 Creedmoor rifles. The thread length is very short. I found very few self timing breaks that I could use. The Recoil Hawg was about it.

 

[FEENIX]

My other 2 brake I have are:
APA GEN 1 micro bastard brake on a 300 win mag and it works great.
The other is a MBM brake on my 280 Ackley and it's like a 243. Both brake's are 3 ports. I have heard many good things about Holland's brakes.
Thanks,
Jason

Browning's Recoil Hawg is quite the improvement from their radial brakes. However, IMHO, you can do better with the other manufacturers you noted, esp. for a .300 RUM.

 

[Jnm300ultra]

Measure the thread length on the barrel, I have 2 X-Bolt 6.5 Creedmoor rifles. The thread length is very short. I found very few self timing breaks that I could use. The Recoil Hawg was about it.

Thanks for letting me know about the short threads. I did notice that the installation of the Hawg brake was different than other designs. Sounds like I should try the Hawg or measure the threads and call a few other manufacturers.
Thanks again,
Jason

 

[Darryle]

You can use the AR style, use a peel shim, but they look ugly as sin to me. My option on the table now is to have a stainless brake cut to index on the shoulder versus the self timing nut. Then have it Nitrided afterwards.

 

[Jnm300ultra]

You can use the AR style, use a peel shim, but they look ugly as sin to me. My option on the table now is to have a stainless brake cut to index on the shoulder versus the self timing nut. Then have it Nitrided afterwards.

I wasn't sure if the brands that I wanted would make one that would index. I believe that they are their Gen 1 models. I was hoping for a TI brake just don't know or looked yet to see who makes one. Stainless would be cheaper and probably easier to turn down to the diameter of the barrel. I wanted the rifle to be one the lighter side that's why I'm interested in the most recoil reduction I can have. I sold my last Rem 700 RUM 15 years ago and have wanted another one. I do remember the recoil of a 7 1/2 pound rifle with no break on it though, that's why I'm making sure this one is going to have an efficient brake. I know most are thinking should have purchased a 300 PRC but I have a 300 Win Mag and it's close enough for me. I will keep you guys posted after I get a new brake and what the recoil is like before and after.
Thanks,
Jason

 

[QuietTexan]

Darryle is 100% correct about short threads, just measured and mine is .450" rather than the standard .600".

If you're going to go through all the work of getting a brake turned down to match the barrel contour, I'd get a MBM 5-port and have the smith chop the barrel down, recrown/rethread it longer and time the brake to it. You're giving up 3/4" of barrel to get better, longer threads cut.

300 RUM - there will be no meaningful velocity difference at all, because IMO you'll find the best load slightly short of max pressure anyways so whatever loss there is will be inside the window of what you're giving up in pressure to gain precision.