.30 cal brake for .284...?

WahooYahoo

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I really like to shoot, but I can't lay behind my 7RM all day, it just hurts. My form suffers when I hurt. So, the next logical thing to do is reduce recoil and although I dislike the report from the break, its the lesser of the evils. There aren't many choices available for a 9/16 .284 break. I've heard that a .30 break "works" for .284. Am I right?
 
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FEENIX

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I really like to shoot, but I can't lay behind my 7RM all day, it just hurts. My form suffers when I hurt. So, the next logical thing to do is reduce recoil and although I dislike the report from the break, its the lesser of the evils. Their aren't many choices available for a 9/16 .284 break. I've heard that a .30 break "works" for .284. Am I right?

Yes! I have a blast tamer MB that is designed for 7MM-300WM.
 

jpfrog

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I'm no engineer, so take this for what it is: an opinion based on conversations I've had, no real experience yet.

I'm sure there are some efficiencies lost in going with a larger than caliber brake, but I believe it's done all the time and is still quite effective, especially when the step up from caliber to brake size is minimal such as going from .284 bullet to a .308 brake. I just ordered a TBAC Ultra 338 that will use their brake, and I picked up a couple of extras for other rifles- all the brakes are the same size, but one will go on a .338 Lapua and the other two will go on a pair of .300 win mags. The folks at TBAC indicated I'd be fine (at least that's how I interpreted the conversation).
 

CA48

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You shouldn't have any loss of effectiveness as long as you are using a quality brake to begin with. On my last 6.5 build I used a Terminator t3 brake set up for a .338 and had no issues. I asked my smith about it before the build and he said there would probably not be any noticeable difference. So you should be good to go especially since you're just one step up in caliber.
 

WildRose

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I really like to shoot, but I can't lay behind my 7RM all day, it just hurts. My form suffers when I hurt. So, the next logical thing to do is reduce recoil and although I dislike the report from the break, its the lesser of the evils. There aren't many choices available for a 9/16 .284 break. I've heard that a .30 break "works" for .284. Am I right?
NWP muzzle brake from Mack's Gunworks.

https://www.macsgunworks.com/product-page/copy-of-nwp-muzzle-brake#!
 

WahooYahoo

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Actually I'm trying to decide on a self timing break like mice bastard gen 2, seekins and so on. I want to enjoy shooting it, then have the option to remove it for hunting. The shift in POI is predictable enough. Any thoughts?
 

J E Custom

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I'm no engineer, so take this for what it is: an opinion based on conversations I've had, no real experience yet.

I'm sure there are some efficiencies lost in going with a larger than caliber brake, but I believe it's done all the time and is still quite effective, especially when the step up from caliber to brake size is minimal such as going from .284 bullet to a .308 brake. I just ordered a TBAC Ultra 338 that will use their brake, and I picked up a couple of extras for other rifles- all the brakes are the same size, but one will go on a .338 Lapua and the other two will go on a pair of .300 win mags. The folks at TBAC indicated I'd be fine (at least that's how I interpreted the conversation).


You are correct, If you use a brake with a bore larger than the bullet diameter + .020, It will not be as effective. It will still reduce recoil but not as good.

Ideally, the bore size of the brake needs to be a minimum of .015 larger than the bullet. You can go as little as .010 larger but you run the risk of a bullet strike unless everything is perfectly centered on the bore.

The best efficiency of the bore hole in the brake measured during test
was .015 to .025 larger than the bore. anything less gained no measurable recoil reduction, and up to .025 it remained at maximum efficiency. Beyond a .025 larger bore hole the recoil reduction degraded rapidly from its best size (.015 to .025).

I will caution anyone from switching brakes back and forth because of the possibility of placing the wrong brake with a smaller bore size on the rifle. (I know it sounds like know one would do that) but I have repaired many rifles and brakes that have had that happen. Besides bullet strikes being bad for accuracy, they can also be dangerous and sometimes cause the muzzle brake to join the bullet and leave the barrel at the same time.

J E CUSTOM
 

FEENIX

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Actually I'm trying to decide on a self timing break like mice bastard gen 2, seekins and so on. I want to enjoy shooting it, then have the option to remove it for hunting. The shift in POI is predictable enough. Any thoughts?

Majority of my rifles sports a muzzle brake and never find the need to remove it for hunting.
 

WildRose

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Actually I'm trying to decide on a self timing break like mice bastard gen 2, seekins and so on. I want to enjoy shooting it, then have the option to remove it for hunting. The shift in POI is predictable enough. Any thoughts?
Even with the 300's and 375's I usually can see my hits even at fairly close range with the NWP's.

Decent recoil reduction, excellent muzzle flip reduction and very tolerable to shoot even in a hurry when I don't have time to put my ears on before shooting.

Tough to beat.
 

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