Ruger predator 22-250? What's the powder charge that works for you with the 55gr vmax?
Load development for ruger American 22-250
- Thread starter bayoubuck
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Scopes are made to handle recoil that moves. Fastest way to kill a scope is butt the rifle up against something immovable and pull the trigger. You can get away with not strapping the gun in the sled and removing the weight and letting it slide on the bench, but a front rest and sandbag is ideal.
For your group size, adjust your seating depth but keep an eye on pressure and velocity.
Mine likes the Berger 70gn VLD over RL-15. I have a special run barrel that is 1/7 twist though
trapper1954
Well-Known Member
My Ruger is an old 77 mark 2, beaver tail stock etc. It likes 55 gr. Nosler Ballistic tips and H414 with cci benchrest primers. Way back I started it long and touching and started backing off till the gun showed me what it liked. They would ramp up and chamber perfect but would not load in the internal magazine as designed by Ruger, I modified that part. My brass is turned and squared. My projectile starts out lined up center with the bore. Just sayin
This target was shot with a Hart rest, baby powder, and a rabbit ear bag,,, under duress from a Viet Nam Gunny pounding the bench telling me how bad he was going to kick my rear, Ha ha ha Dennis didnt bring his cotton to the gin x3. My wife beat us all with a perfect score & her 222.
This target was shot with a Hart rest, baby powder, and a rabbit ear bag,,, under duress from a Viet Nam Gunny pounding the bench telling me how bad he was going to kick my rear, Ha ha ha Dennis didnt bring his cotton to the gin x3. My wife beat us all with a perfect score & her 222.
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
You may want to reassess the IMR 4350 when temps get warmer. It possibly may be temp sensitive as I've read. It's not the same as H4350 from what I gather. I am also new to reloading. So verify for yourself.
Bang4theBuck
Well-Known Member
I agree with others that have said that he lead sled is a problem. I didn't say 'the problem', but I would abandon that as your support and put the rifle on a bipod and rear sand bang, not only do I think there is a chance things will improve for accuracy, but I bet your point of impact shifts a significant amount.
CNY Yote Hunter
Well-Known Member
Late to the conversation but I agree with others on the powder. H380 has been the best powder for the 22-250 I have ever used. 38.0 grains and a 55 grain projectile has produced some of the best groups I have ever shot with mine. Hence H380- 38.0… pretty neat lol. I would take the .020 off the lands and forget about that honestly. I'm not sure how you measured your distance to the lands but I have found with most factory rifles, getting to .020 off the lands has the projectile **** near not in the case at all. The manufacturer almost always leaves more room to the rifling cause you never know what someone has bought for ammo and weights that they want to shoot. That being said, do some reading on twist rates, find a projectile that falls right in the middle of the lower side and higher side of your twist rate and start there. The Nosler reloading manual has been one of the best for me, they list the most accurate load tried and highlight it. Honestly I have started with those for quite a few rifles and have been extremely pleased with the outcome. Most other books do not show you the most accurate powder tested I have found although the more you get into loading the more of them you will want for other options at times.
The .020 off the lands comment I made, the reason I wouldn't worry too much about that is I have rifles like Rem 700's that love the projectile that close to the lands and others that won't group 3" at that seating depth. The Ruger American I have is one of those rifles that doesn't like the projectile that close. If you are measuring your cbto, buy some factory loads and start checking what they are loaded to. I think you will be mind blown when you see just how much difference there can be with seating depths. That being said I feel through my time behind the gun that seating depth is far more important than powder charge. Most manuals give you a seating depth suggestion, I'd also start with that and work your way from there. The only projectiles I ever really start at the .020 off the lands for load development are Berger's, if you do some research on Barnes it's usually the opposite way and so far off the lands it's bothersome but it's what they like most the time.
Best advice I could give you, buy a few boxes of factory ammo. Get some different weights and different brands. Go enjoy the rifle and put some rounds down range. Find the ammo it shoots best with and work from there in small increments on your own loads. Chronograph is 100 percent needed to see consistency. Best of luck and have fun
The .020 off the lands comment I made, the reason I wouldn't worry too much about that is I have rifles like Rem 700's that love the projectile that close to the lands and others that won't group 3" at that seating depth. The Ruger American I have is one of those rifles that doesn't like the projectile that close. If you are measuring your cbto, buy some factory loads and start checking what they are loaded to. I think you will be mind blown when you see just how much difference there can be with seating depths. That being said I feel through my time behind the gun that seating depth is far more important than powder charge. Most manuals give you a seating depth suggestion, I'd also start with that and work your way from there. The only projectiles I ever really start at the .020 off the lands for load development are Berger's, if you do some research on Barnes it's usually the opposite way and so far off the lands it's bothersome but it's what they like most the time.
Best advice I could give you, buy a few boxes of factory ammo. Get some different weights and different brands. Go enjoy the rifle and put some rounds down range. Find the ammo it shoots best with and work from there in small increments on your own loads. Chronograph is 100 percent needed to see consistency. Best of luck and have fun
thomasbangs
Well-Known Member
Depending on rifle/scope combination a 1 inch group might be as accurate as it gets, especially if it's set up for hunting. At bench rest matches I have never seen a shooter use a lead sled for what it's worth. As others has previously stated, a 1 in 10 twist is borderline for the 69 gr bullet, in other words some rifles might handle it and others won't. Welcome to reloading.
PApa Black
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You may find this useful: 1:8T recommended
Calvin45
Well-Known Member
If this is gonna be used for varminting I have a suggestion that may seem silly at first given that you want to go heavier than 55.
53 grain VMAX or 53 grain VARMAGEDDON. These are both notably longer than typical 55 grain bullets, and absolutely will not stabilize in a 1:14 no matter how fast you push them: tried that in a 220 swift a while ago. 1:12 minimum, I bet your 1/10 makes them shoot lights out!
Higher bc than the typical 55s as well. .290-.300 g1 bc range. In conjunction with the speed you could get these to out of your .22-250 I bet you'd have a winner. IN FACT, the 69 matchking only has a listed g1 bc of around .31. And will be starting out MUCH slower.
Just some thoughts, take them for whatever they're worth to ya, and happy shooting!
Calvin45
Well-Known Member
Ditch the sled and the IMR 4350. There is a reason Hodgdon website lists 21of its powders and does not include IMR 4350. I would go to a faster burning powder along the lines of H380/IMR 4064.
Reloading Data Center – Hodgdon Reloading Data Center
hodgdonreloading.com
^this. H380 has been relatively obtainable of late. 4064 was THE powder to beat in the .220 swift I mentioned earlier, similar case to bore ratios.
Lose the sled it messes up barrel harmonics,use bags settled on the stock
53gr V-Maxs are hard to beat for varmints and accuracy, but if I were starting out I'd try those new 62 Gr Varmint bullets Hornady came out with and if you're wanting a bit heavier bullet that might be the way to go. Match Kings have a pretty tough jacket and not the best for killing things, they'll work but there's better bullets out there in abundance.
