Completed AR10 Builds (6.5 Creedmoor)
- Thread starter C.O. Shooter
- Start date
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I have a lmos w/jpscs , +2 gas that still has op issues. I haven't had time to adjust it. If you have a properly sized gas port then all will be easy! Do you know gp size?
That's hot
C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
No sir, haven't got that far.
@bamban can help on best port size per gas length. Get the correct size port and tuning will be easier.
C.O., I went all Wilson, main reason was to avoid any potential headspace issues. Their BCG also had the "double plunger" extractor. This double plunger was to assist in "clearing" the case better? I am getting many dented cases that are hitting the bump block behind the ejection port. I have a Superlative Adjustable Gas Block as I also shoot with a can. I adjusted the gas block per instructions and I feel I get what is needed. But I wonder if the BCG double plunger thing was an answer to a problem that did not exist.
To save my brass from dents and also that I really don't like picking up brass, I got a TacStar brass catcher which I am very pleased with and have it set to cover just before the bump block which eliminates the dents.
Very pleased with my builds.
As an aside, was not a fan of this caliber, but it does what it does very well. I thought I would change the barrel out for a 7mm-08 Wilson, I understand I can use the same BCG. But I've got brass, dies all components for this and nothing for the 7mm-08 so I don't see this changing anytime soon.
I buy the Berger 130gr OTM AR ammo and I get well into Sub MOA results. Plus they use Lapua brass so super good in that regard and I will reload this after I shoot it all.
I want to try this on a prairie dog shoot soon. And I like just ringing steel at distance.
Apologies for adding more information than you asked for.
Be well, thanks for asking for my opinion.
Fred
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C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
Fred, do you believe the double plunger 
is causing the brass to hit the deflector, causing dented cases.
is causing the brass to hit the deflector, causing dented cases.When the bcg cycles too fast it can cause the same thing or the extractor being to tight and not letting it go. I did have an AP bcg with that issue of the extractor being tight and not letting the ejector push it out.Fred, do you believe the double plunger
I have two 24" 6.5CM builds, one is a Faxon barrel, another is a Criterion. Non-suppressed, both with AGB, rifle gas length. On these two, the single-ejector BCG works just fine. Sewing-machine fine, on all the range trips. 5.3oz buffers, Slash's 308 carbine spring. A variety of factory ammo.
I have another 26" 6.5CM, also with AGB, the much-touted "rifle+2" gas length, tuned correctly for last-round-bolt-hold-open. I was getting occasional failures where the brass didn't get out the port (fast enough?), had a few stovepipes, other weird empty-brass-induced malfunctions (single O-ring under the extractor, normal for mine). Switched out the bolt head (not the carrier), for that Arm-or-Ally Toolcraft dual-ejector, and now it runs like a sewing machine. So, I'm thinking, in some cases that extra oomph is needed, and in other cases it's not needed, would be excess, kick the brass into the next county (regardless, I use a brass catcher).
Like some folks say, "a solution in search of a problem". Well, sometimes you find that problem...
I wouldn't start off a new build with a dual-ejector bolt, but would keep that in my hip pocket if needed. I guess alternately, I could've explored going to a carbine buffer heavier than 5.3oz, but preferred to keep my lowers cook-book standardized for what seems to work across almost all of my 308's and 6.5CM's, and do all the specific tuning in the upper. I do swap them around.
I have another 26" 6.5CM, also with AGB, the much-touted "rifle+2" gas length, tuned correctly for last-round-bolt-hold-open. I was getting occasional failures where the brass didn't get out the port (fast enough?), had a few stovepipes, other weird empty-brass-induced malfunctions (single O-ring under the extractor, normal for mine). Switched out the bolt head (not the carrier), for that Arm-or-Ally Toolcraft dual-ejector, and now it runs like a sewing machine. So, I'm thinking, in some cases that extra oomph is needed, and in other cases it's not needed, would be excess, kick the brass into the next county (regardless, I use a brass catcher).
Like some folks say, "a solution in search of a problem". Well, sometimes you find that problem...
I wouldn't start off a new build with a dual-ejector bolt, but would keep that in my hip pocket if needed. I guess alternately, I could've explored going to a carbine buffer heavier than 5.3oz, but preferred to keep my lowers cook-book standardized for what seems to work across almost all of my 308's and 6.5CM's, and do all the specific tuning in the upper. I do swap them around.
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C.O., I would say more than likely. But I haven't tried Wilson's single plunger bolt to confirm.Fred, do you believe the double plunger
I adjusted my gas block per instructions and cycling was fine. I purchased a a standard AR10 308 JP Silent Captured spring as recommended. Could I do more with a heavier follower / spring? Probably, all I did was interrupt the contact on the deflector with my brass catcher to eliminate the dent.
If brass hits the deflector and dents the brass. Stick a Velcro with plastic hooks on the area. Field expedient Band-Aid.Fred, do you believe the double plunger
I have 6.5 Needmore with Aero Precision 22" Bull Barrel 7.5 Twist and Upper, full length rifle gas tube, nonadjustable gas block, WMD Nickle Boron BCG,, Elfman adjustable trigger 2.5 lbs, JP Enteprises 16" Hand Guard, JP Enterprises Silent Capture Buffer Spring, DPMS Lower.
I put all of this stuff together myself, I am not a gunsmith by any means other than being a boat anchor as far a weight goes, this thing will shoot any factory ammunition under MOA and the 140 Gr Sierra MK BTHP in front of 41.2 Gr of H4350 will shoot .25 MOA and will ring 6" steel at 700 yds on a calm day, I don't read wind as well as I should. This rifle has never jammed, misfired. I must have got lucky because I know I am not that good. I also did the same thing in an AR15 Grendel and it shoots better than the AR10, just a little slower and a lot lighter, all the same parts just configured for the AR15.
I put all of this stuff together myself, I am not a gunsmith by any means other than being a boat anchor as far a weight goes, this thing will shoot any factory ammunition under MOA and the 140 Gr Sierra MK BTHP in front of 41.2 Gr of H4350 will shoot .25 MOA and will ring 6" steel at 700 yds on a calm day, I don't read wind as well as I should. This rifle has never jammed, misfired. I must have got lucky because I know I am not that good. I also did the same thing in an AR15 Grendel and it shoots better than the AR10, just a little slower and a lot lighter, all the same parts just configured for the AR15.
C.O. Shooter
Well-Known Member
What are your full builds weighing and overall length?
Bamban, why the hook side and not the loop (softer) side? A little more rigid? Just curious and I like your solution.
