Why I Crimp

I thought someone was going to ask that question, as did I at first. My take on it is that at the point of the crimp, you can actually add more tension to that area then what is possible in the remainder of the neck, and actually create a little more bite on that concentrated area, which, I feel, creates a better and more efficient burn. And the key is that it's more consistent, then just the regular neck tension alone. This supplemental crimp, is just that, it supplements the already tensioner neck, and I believe it helps with neck tension variances, that you don't feel, until you seat a bullet. My thought only!
Could not have explained it any better myself and I concur 100%
 
Which cartridge(s) don't? ;)
None that I have seen, But I'm a 25-06 fanatic and back in the day the 2 bit-06's were finicky at times and this is where my Fascination with the Lee FCD took hold, I bought a many 25-06 that " wouldn't shoot" fairly reasonable
 
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I thought someone was going to ask that question, as did I at first. My take on it is that at the point of the crimp, you can actually add more tension to that area then what is possible in the remainder of the neck, and actually create a little more bite on that concentrated area, which, I feel, creates a better and more efficient burn. And the key is that it's more consistent, then just the regular neck tension alone. This supplemental crimp, is just that, it supplements the already tensioned neck, and I believe it helps with neck tension variances, that you don't feel, until you seat a bullet. My thought only!

For those of you who crimp do you do it as a separate step or at the same time as seating the bullet? Is there any reason why the crimp feature in all or most seat dies doesn't seem to be as good as the Lee FCD?
 
For those of you who crimp do you do it as a separate step or at the same time as seating the bullet? Is there any reason why the crimp feature in all or most seat dies doesn't seem to be as good as the Lee FCD?
Thee Lee FCD is a separate operation and if you will read back it is thoroughly explained why the FCD is Superior to the standard roll crimp
 
For those of you who crimp do you do it as a separate step or at the same time as seating the bullet? Is there any reason why the crimp feature in all or most seat dies doesn't seem to be as good as the Lee FCD?
The roll crimp, does exactly what it says, as it actually captures the very edge, and rolls it into typically, the cannelure in the bullet. I haven't tried to use this method. However, the Lee, FCD, applies a clamp, of sorts , around the outside of the neck, and squeezes it inward, and leaves a band impression in the brass. Most factory ammo, with or without cannelure, uses this method, hence the name, FCD. Hope this helps.
 
Butterbean,

I have been reading the posts on this thread as they roll in, and it has been very enlightening for me. At first, I had no interest in crimping ( other than for tubular magazine lever action rifles ) because everybody "knows" that it isn't necessary - and precision shooters all talk about neck tension and such, not crimping. I was surprised to see how many guys have chimed in that they are doing what you're doing, and it has been an eye-opener. I plan to try this soon. Thanks.

Now I've got something for you. I read in your initial post how your rifle slid off your shoulder, and immediately thought about a sling I bought recently. I hunted with it only one time, on a blacktail deer hunt in Oregon that only lasted two days, due to knocking down a big one early in the hunt. Not a thorough "field test," but plenty long enough to learn that it works exactly as advertised. It's a rubber sling that doesn't slide off the shoulder. It's made by Slogan Outdoors, and they've got videos on their website about it. It's kinda grippy, and it really doesn't slide - at all. It grabs the fabric of your jacket, and stays right where you put it. I had thought that I would be made of that gummy rubber ( like a gasket ) but it's not gummy at all. It doesn't pick up fuzz from the fabric, either. It also can be split into two carrying slings, so you can carry the rifle in the middle of your back like a backpack. This would work in really rough country, where you needed to use both hands to climb.

This is one of only a few products I have bought that works as well as I had thought it would, and it may keep you from dropping your rifle again. Thanks again for starting this thread, and happy hunting.
I will have to say this is the Best sling I have ever used in my life, Thanks for the information
 
I started using the roll-crimp in my .30-06 Hornady seating die to get more complete burn of RL16. I trim my cases the same and set seating depth then adjust the crimp down ~ 11 degrees rotation. If I rotate down too much, I start seeing compression dimpling in the neck or shoulder. Once it is set, I seat and crimp in one stroke. I'm crimping 150 Nosler BT and AB. BT is load development for AB application since their the same geometry, BC, etc and BT is much cheaper.

I saw RL16 burn improvement and my groups tightened up. Did it for H4350 too, though it wasnt needed for burn, and saw groups tighten up and velocity increase. Admittedly with 4350 that could be due to ambient temp increase of 20 F. Not planning to test to comfirm that possibility though.
 

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