Why I Crimp

Do you guys keep your cases trimmed to the exact same length for this.
Lee maintains you don't have to have equal case lengths for the Lee FCD to work, ( it's on their web site, HUGE amount of FAQs). With that in mind, I wouldn't let the length discrepancy get too far out. Personally , my case lengths are kept the same.
 
Lee maintains you don't have to have equal case lengths for the Lee FCD to work, ( it's on their web site, HUGE amount of FAQs). With that in mind, I wouldn't let the length discrepancy get too far out. Personally , my case lengths are kept the same.
A lot of times if you trim to spec the crimp will be at the very top of the case and that makes it hard to see and control most folks leave brass .003- .005 long, I take the material off of the die if I have have this problem and I have but is rare
 
When I used the 35 Whelen Ackley Improved alot, my fireformed cases end up shorter than minimum. I sent off a dummy rounds and $15 to LEE and I got back my nice Custom FCD! I could have had the die ground off some too, but I was using the original on a standard Whelen at the time. I also used the LFCD when I was shooting Beartooth HC bullets in a 444 Marlin. It shot the best with it right up against ( but not in) the rifling. Marshal turned me on to the FCD. I have crimped many other rounds, cannelures be danged, ha I crimp non cannelured jacketed bullets pretty firm. No loss of accuracy. I love it!
 
When I used the 35 Whelen Ackley Improved alot, my fireformed cases end up shorter than minimum. I sent off a dummy rounds and $15 to LEE and I got back my nice Custom FCD! I could have had the die ground off some too, but I was using the original on a standard Whelen at the time. I also used the LFCD when I was shooting Beartooth HC bullets in a 444 Marlin. It shot the best with it right up against ( but not in) the rifling. Marshal turned me on to the FCD. I have crimped many other rounds, cannelures be danged, ha I crimp non cannelured jacketed bullets pretty firm. No loss of accuracy. I love it!
I guess I should say that I'm lucky in having a machine shop at my disposal but yes I agree and IMO the $15 dollars is a wise investment
 
I know this is going to start the age old battle of crimp or not to crimp and that's not what I'm trying to do so I'm stating "This is why I crimp", This is my opinion so take it for that, I'm just sharing my personal experience and what works for me I am not a competition shooter nor do I claim to be Just a LRH . This is the second time this has happened to me in the past thirty years, the first was an Elk hunt in Oregon where I mailed my rifle and ammo out and then spent a week Horseback and the second time was yesterday, I will tell you that I do not abuse my guns, with that being said I use them for what they are intended for and I do not own anything that hasn't been "Well Used" No safe queens here, Now why I crimp, My Coyote Rig is a Rem 700 in 270 with 90 gr Sierra's, I loaded some rounds last month and got sidetracked and didn't crimp ( I use the Lee FCD on everything I load ) 10 rounds, I just let it go cause I wanted to get in the woods,these were loaded into a 5 rd Magazine two weeks ago, i hunt every evening an twice a day on the weekends 2 to 3 sets a trip and last Saturday my gun slipped off of my shoulder and landed on the Butt stock in a field and didn't hurt anything, fast forward to last night, I shot a ground hog ejected and chambered a new round and while unloading the weapon i saw the bullet in the second round in the mag was gone, upon examination I found the bullet had fell back in to the case, as i said this is the second time this has happened to me and why " I crimp" As for a side note this was 3X fired brass annealed, trimmed and FL resized every loading with a measured .0023 neck tension

Butterbean,

I have been reading the posts on this thread as they roll in, and it has been very enlightening for me. At first, I had no interest in crimping ( other than for tubular magazine lever action rifles ) because everybody "knows" that it isn't necessary - and precision shooters all talk about neck tension and such, not crimping. I was surprised to see how many guys have chimed in that they are doing what you're doing, and it has been an eye-opener. I plan to try this soon. Thanks.

Now I've got something for you. I read in your initial post how your rifle slid off your shoulder, and immediately thought about a sling I bought recently. I hunted with it only one time, on a blacktail deer hunt in Oregon that only lasted two days, due to knocking down a big one early in the hunt. Not a thorough "field test," but plenty long enough to learn that it works exactly as advertised. It's a rubber sling that doesn't slide off the shoulder. It's made by Slogan Outdoors, and they've got videos on their website about it. It's kinda grippy, and it really doesn't slide - at all. It grabs the fabric of your jacket, and stays right where you put it. I had thought that I would be made of that gummy rubber ( like a gasket ) but it's not gummy at all. It doesn't pick up fuzz from the fabric, either. It also can be split into two carrying slings, so you can carry the rifle in the middle of your back like a backpack. This would work in really rough country, where you needed to use both hands to climb.

This is one of only a few products I have bought that works as well as I had thought it would, and it may keep you from dropping your rifle again. Thanks again for starting this thread, and happy hunting.
 
I crimp everything anymore, ha. I shoot alot of monos and I find they keep those slick puppies in place, plus, they give a better 'bullet pull" during ignition...I think, ha. Anyhow, I have never had it hurt anything.


Wouldn't less expansion of the neck accomplish the same thing, more bullet pull?
 
Butterbean,

I have been reading the posts on this thread as they roll in, and it has been very enlightening for me. At first, I had no interest in crimping ( other than for tubular magazine lever action rifles ) because everybody "knows" that it isn't necessary - and precision shooters all talk about neck tension and such, not crimping. I was surprised to see how many guys have chimed in that they are doing what you're doing, and it has been an eye-opener. I plan to try this soon. Thanks.

Now I've got something for you. I read in your initial post how your rifle slid off your shoulder, and immediately thought about a sling I bought recently. I hunted with it only one time, on a blacktail deer hunt in Oregon that only lasted two days, due to knocking down a big one early in the hunt. Not a thorough "field test," but plenty long enough to learn that it works exactly as advertised. It's a rubber sling that doesn't slide off the shoulder. It's made by Slogan Outdoors, and they've got videos on their website about it. It's kinda grippy, and it really doesn't slide - at all. It grabs the fabric of your jacket, and stays right where you put it. I had thought that I would be made of that gummy rubber ( like a gasket ) but it's not gummy at all. It doesn't pick up fuzz from the fabric, either. It also can be split into two carrying slings, so you can carry the rifle in the middle of your back like a backpack. This would work in really rough country, where you needed to use both hands to climb.

This is one of only a few products I have bought that works as well as I had thought it would, and it may keep you from dropping your rifle again. Thanks again for starting this thread, and happy hunting.
I have been looking at those very close and I appreciate you take on them as that has made made my mind up on getting one, As for the Crimp there are a lot of folks here that use the Lee FCD but don't say much as it always start the same old war of words and to quote you " Is it necessary? " Nope its not but it has been working for me for decades in real world hunting , I just hate to see someone pass up on such a valuable tool "just because" and I know I've said it a hundred times but I'll say it again as they always chime in sooner or later, I'm not a Benchrest Shooter nor do I care to be but I have the utmost respect for those guys and I have learned a ton from what they do and I will continue to learn The Good Lord Willing, As told everybody if you wanna give it a try and have any questions feel free to PM me or I'll give you my number, Once again thanks for confirming the sling
Bean
 
When I used the 35 Whelen Ackley Improved alot, my fireformed cases end up shorter than minimum. I sent off a dummy rounds and $15 to LEE and I got back my nice Custom FCD! I could have had the die ground off some too, but I was using the original on a standard Whelen at the time. I also used the LFCD when I was shooting Beartooth HC bullets in a 444 Marlin. It shot the best with it right up against ( but not in) the rifling. Marshal turned me on to the FCD. I have crimped many other rounds, cannelures be danged, ha I crimp non cannelured jacketed bullets pretty firm. No loss of accuracy. I love it!
Several Years ago when I got into JM stamped Marlins I followed Beartooth Bullets Lee FCD suggestions on all calibers and they shoot like a dream with his bullets for the 444 it is the 290 grain just touching. Also the 450, 45/70, 44, mag, 45 Colt in JM Marlins
 
Wouldn't less expansion of the neck accomplish the same thing, more bullet pull?
I thought someone was going to ask that question, as did I at first. My take on it is that at the point of the crimp, you can actually add more tension to that area then what is possible in the remainder of the neck, and actually create a little more bite on that concentrated area, which, I feel, creates a better and more efficient burn. And the key is that it's more consistent, then just the regular neck tension alone. This supplemental crimp, is just that, it supplements the already tensioned neck, and I believe it helps with neck tension variances, that you don't feel, until you seat a bullet. My thought only!
 
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I thought someone was going to ask that question, as did I at first. My take on it is that at the point of the crimp, you can actually add more tension to that area then what is possible in the remainder of the neck, and actually create a little more bite on that concentrated area, which, I feel, creates a better and more efficient burn. And the key is that it's more consistent, then just the regular neck tension alone. This supplemental crimp, is just that, it supplements the already tensioner neck, and I believe it helps with neck tension variances, that you don't feel, until you seat a bullet. My thought only!

Are we talking about crimping on a bullet that has a cannelure or one without a cannelure?
 
In over 30 years of reloading I have never crimped my rifle bullets, except the the 5.56 in my AR. None of of the rounds that I have reloaded have ever had a bullet move in the case. I have always crimped pistol loads. Now you all have me thinking I should try the LEE factory crimp die to try to get a more even release.
The last sentence in your comment, is what it's all about, " more consistent" release.
 
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