What is your reloading process from start to bang!

Q for Remmy 700 I missed some of the thread so just to be clear in step #3 unfired and step #4 fired brass you are using a Full Length resizing die with the button removed ? Could one use a Type S type die instead ?
 
My full process is as follows
New brass (Norma, ADG, Lapua)
1. Debur flash holes
2. Clean primer pockets
3. Measure primer pockets if needed drill out. (I can't see gains from this honestly but would love for someone to tell me they have I might do it more with qualitative data to back it up)
4. Debur and chamfer before running them in die (don't want to scratch die)
5. Fl size Forster
6. Expander mandrel Sinclair
7. Trim, if needed (neck turn if needed)
8. Chamfer and debur again
9. Prime
10. Redding Dry lube case for seating
11. Charge
11. Seat
I do steps 1-8 when I get new brass all brass prep is done at once.

Fired brass
1. Deprime
2. Tumble vibratory
3. Anneal
4. Fl size .0015-.002 bump
5. Mandrel to set neck tension
6. Trim if needed
7. Chamfer debur all cases to clean up
8. Prime
9. Dry lube
10. Charge
11. Seat
 
I personally don't like ripping an expander mandrel from bottom to top of case mouth undoing all I just did sizing the neck. It is common physics that the case is much stronger because of the shoulder angle taking pressure pushing down on case vs pulling up in case much like the roof of a house. With a mandrel I can pick what neck tension vs what Forster or Redding etc decided they think it should be. I have talked to many, many experienced reloaders and experienced myself where expander buttons induce runout rather than help to eliminate it.

Use a Lee Neck die and runout is a thing of the past, it's the only neck due on the market which doesn't over work or stress the neck.
This is an I initial load at 100 meters, a168 grain A Max, 308 Win, fire formed and neck sized using a Lee Neck Die. Powder is Swiss Sl 52, at 46.4 Grains. Standard Deviation is less than 6.
Your right there any many ways to skin a Cat, it's such an interesting process.
 

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I don't even bother trimming brass until the right before the second firing. Get everything fireformed and sized then trim...otherwise it's wiping before you poop:confused:
 
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When I am 'experimenting' with a NEW to me cartridge I usually do a batch of cases a step at a time.
Size and deprive.
Prime separately on an old rcbs priming bench tool.
Drop powder from measure into pan.
Check weight put in case.
Seat bullet.

Repeat!
 
Here's my process. I've only been reloading for 4 months, so if I need to change something I'm doing, let me have it.

New Brass
1. Debur flash hole
2. Uniform primer pocket
3. Neck size with Redding bushing die
4. SS tumble to remove lube
5. Measure case length
6. Trim to the shortest length I find
7. Prime
8. Charge
9. Seat bullet

Fired brass
1. Lube
2. Deprime and neck size with Redding bushing die. After 3 to 4 firings, I will full length size as well
3. Stainless steel tumble
4. Trim if needed
5. Anneal if needed
6. Prime
7. Charge
8. Seat bullet
 
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Remmy, your process and mine are almost identical except I start with a large batch of brass and weight sort and keep the ones that meet my criteria after initial prep is done. I sell off the outliers to some local guys that aren't shooting as far and appreciate uniform brass but don't seem to worry about weight sorting. I also measure case capacity on a few to get an idea what I'm working with. If I find the need to clean the necks I use a nylon brush, nothing abrasive like a brass brush or steel wool as they cause scratches that aren't symmetrical within the neck or case to case and making things as equal and symmetrical is important to me.
 
Here's my process. I've only been reloading for 4 months, so if I need to change something I'm doing, let me have it.

New Brass
1. Debur flash hole
2. Uniform primer pocket
3. Neck size with Redding bushing die
4. SS tumble to remove lube
5. Measure case length
6. Trim to the shortest length I find
7. Prime
8. Charge
9. Seat bullet

Fired brass
1. Lube
2. Deprime and neck size with Redding bushing die. After 3 to 4 firings, I will full length size as well
3. Stainless steel tumble
4. Trim if needed
5. Anneal if needed
6. Prime
7. Charge
8. Seat bullet
Looks solid brother just becareful with that cleaning after u size as u can introduce all kinds of crud to the inside of your die. That is typically why I deprime and clean as first two steps on fired brass.
 
My full process is as follows
New brass (Norma, ADG, Lapua)
1. Debur flash holes
2. Clean primer pockets
3. Measure primer pockets if needed drill out. (I can't see gains from this honestly but would love for someone to tell me they have I might do it more with qualitative data to back it up)
4. Debur and chamfer before running them in die (don't want to scratch die)
5. Fl size Forster
6. Expander mandrel Sinclair
7. Trim, if needed (neck turn if needed)
8. Chamfer and debur again
9. Prime
10. Redding Dry lube case for seating
11. Charge
11. Seat
I do steps 1-8 when I get new brass all brass prep is done at once.

Fired brass
1. Deprime
2. Tumble vibratory
3. Anneal
4. Fl size .0015-.002 bump
5. Mandrel to set neck tension
6. Trim if needed
7. Chamfer debur all cases to clean up
8. Prime
9. Dry lube
10. Charge
11. Seat
Why do you dry lube right before you charge and seat? I am just curious as my process is same except that step.
 
I know a lot of people that do that also. It not only aids in seating pressure consistency but many also say that with neck lube much like small amount of carbon reduces pressure spikes that often occur when ammo sits for awhile and the brass and bullet somewhat bond.
 
So it fixes cold welding? What dry lube is typically used? I started using HBN to cure cold welding or whatever it's called but would like to have more options to fix it. Just a neck brush and some dry lube? Remmy700 you must be on vacation or something cause you've been busy on the forum lately lol.
 
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