What is your reloading process from start to bang!

[Flatbow]

All great info guys
I have only been loading for a couple years not counting Helping Dad as a kid.
I am the "development guy " for me and my buddy's so this is really helping me get a bit more streamlined

 

[Remmy700]

Thanks fellows for participating and sharing a little bit of your knowledge I am sure it will be very useful to new members or just people getting started into reloading. Y'all are the poop!

 

[Rblosser]

tag

 

[sendero21]

Use a Lee Neck die and runout is a thing of the past, it's the only neck due on the market which doesn't over work or stress the neck.
This is an I initial load at 100 meters, a168 grain A Max, 308 Win, fire formed and neck sized using a Lee Neck Die. Powder is Swiss Sl 52, at 46.4 Grains. Standard Deviation is less than 6.
Your right there any many ways to skin a Cat, it's such an interesting process.

 

[sendero21]

If using new Brass,
Lapua brass,
Full length resized using Redding Competition shellholders, to bump the shoulder back .002.
Flash hole Debur,
Recut the primer pockets,
Trim to length,
Prime using Benchrest Primers,
Seat the bullet .10 off the lands.
Once fireformed,
Use a Lee neck Collet due to size the necks, full length resize every fourth Load.
Neck turn only for Target Rifles,
Below is the load I posted last week, this is 300 meters, an inch at that Range.

 

[shakakan]

Hi guy's... Just wondering if you would recommend primer pocket uniforming an what is the benefit..

 

[aushunter1]

Hi guy's... Just wondering if you would recommend primer pocket uniforming an what is the benefit..

Definitely recommend it.

The main reason for doing this is so the primer cup seats evenly & also as the right depth.

Some brass primer holes are also punched which is why deburring the flash hole & then also uniforming the pocket ensures a nice consistent starting point.

Fyi the uniformer does nothing to the sides of the pocket!

 

[aushunter1]

If using new Brass,
Lapua brass,
Full length resized using Redding Competition shellholders, to bump the shoulder back .002.

I am not sure why you would bump new Lapua brass back 2 thou when it is already at SAAMI specs?

Just curious!

 

[sendero21]

I am not sure why you would bump new Lapua brass back 2 thou when it is already at SAAMI specs?

Just curious!

The Brass is excellent, I just do it, to keep things consistent. On new brass it probably makes no difference.

 

[sendero21]

If using new Brass,
Lapua brass,
Full length resized using Redding Competition shellholders, to bump the shoulder back .002.
Flash hole Debur,
Recut the primer pockets,
Trim to length,
Prime using Benchrest Primers,
Seat the bullet .10 off the lands.
Once fireformed,
Use a Lee neck Collet due to size the necks, full length resize every fourth Load.
Neck turn only for Target Rifles,
Below is the load I posted last week, this is 300 meters, an inch at that Range.

Actually that

If using new Brass,
Lapua brass,
Full length resized using Redding Competition shellholders, to bump the shoulder back .002.
Flash hole Debur,
Recut the primer pockets,
Trim to length,
Prime using Benchrest Primers,
Seat the bullet .10 off the lands.
Once fireformed,
Use a Lee neck Collet due to size the necks, full length resize every fourth Load.
Neck turn only for Target Rifles,
Below is the load I posted last week, this is 300 meters, an inch at that Range.

actually that 300 meter group is just under half an inch.

 

[therifleman556]

@Remmy700 , if I missed it forgive me but how do you go about loading for a new rifle, new caliber, new brass? New as in spankin' new. Not even rough sighted in.

Pick a seating depth at random?
Tune seating depth first or look for pressure?
Just load the bastards up and fire form?

In the past, I would load up ten rounds in 1% increments and run them through the chronograph checking for flat spots in the velocity and looking for pressure. I would also sight in with these rounds.

Am I on the right track or is my target not the only thing full of holes?

 

[Remmy700]

@Remmy700 , if I missed it forgive me but how do you go about loading for a new rifle, new caliber, new brass? New as in spankin' new. Not even rough sighted in.

Pick a seating depth at random?
Tune seating depth first or look for pressure?
Just load the bastards up and fire form?

In the past, I would load up ten rounds in 1% increments and run them through the chronograph checking for flat spots in the velocity and looking for pressure. I would also sight in with these rounds.

Am I on the right track or is my target not the only thing full of holes?

New brass is my first steps in the post the second set of steps is for fired brass. But yeah I do a seating depth normally of around .015 off lands and then I do charges and try to get an rough idea of where nodes are concerning velocity. I mean once this brass is fire formed obviously case capacity will change and so with all that intel's (pressure, velocity). I normally don't bother with that super fine tuning until all my brass is truly fire formed and my die is setup to that with a .0015 shoulder bump. Then I will really fine tune seating depth and start loading .1 gr around nodes that I have previously found. Again lot of people do seating depth first and then fine tune powder charge which is another option but I personally have always had better luck with seating depth last!.

 

[Remmy700]

And no man I know a lot of people who do your method of loading up 10 rounds starting mid range of expected powder charge up through where you are kinda expecting max to be and they shoot over a chrono and use that data to look for flat spots. Then once flat spots are identified they load around those in .1 or .2 gr increments. The ol' Satterlee reloading method. This really gives you a down and dirty idea of node areas but most importantly around where max charge lies so now you can ensure you leave some cushion!

 

[jfloyd]

New brass is my first steps in the post the second set of steps is for fired brass. But yeah I do a seating depth normally of around .015 off lands and then I do charges and try to get an rough idea of where nodes are concerning velocity. I mean once this brass is fire formed obviously case capacity will change and so with all that intel's (pressure, velocity). I normally don't bother with that super fine tuning until all my brass is truly fire formed and my die is setup to that with a .0015 shoulder bump. Then I will really fine tune seating depth and start loading .1 gr around nodes that I have previously found. Again lot of people do seating depth first and then fine tune powder charge which is another option but I personally have always had better luck with seating depth last!.

What are the pros and cons of doing the seating depth first? I've always done it last but I know some people swear by doing it first.