What is your reloading process from start to bang!

I don't even bother trimming brass until the right before the second firing. Get everything fireformed and sized then trim...otherwise it's wiping before you poop:confused:

I find it amazing how almost nobody understands this fundamental concept; maybe the wipe first analogy will help. Of course if there is a sensible way to refute this I am all ears.
 
I know a lot of people that do that also. It not only aids in seating pressure consistency but many also say that with neck lube much like small amount of carbon reduces pressure spikes that often occur when ammo sits for awhile and the brass and bullet somewhat bond.

Remmy,

This is the first I've heard of this, but it certainly makes sense to me. I will adopt this extra step into my loading process. This might fix some problems that I could easily blame on something else, and go chasing my tail for a week. I also visited a couple other forums that came up on an internet search on this subject, and lots of guys are doing this. Some are also dipping the bullet bases into the dry lube, in lieu of what you're doing. That seems like it might be a bit messy to me. Some also asked about whether or not charging with powder wiped off the graphite. I would think that if you can feel the difference in the bullet seating process, then the answer to that one would be "no." Thanks for the tip, Sir.

Nick
 
Remmy,

This is the first I've heard of this, but it certainly makes sense to me. I will adopt this extra step into my loading process. This might fix some problems that I could easily blame on something else, and go chasing my tail for a week. I also visited a couple other forums that came up on an internet search on this subject, and lots of guys are doing this. Some are also dipping the bullet bases into the dry lube, in lieu of what you're doing. That seems like it might be a bit messy to me. Some also asked about whether or not charging with powder wiped off the graphite. I would think that if you can feel the difference in the bullet seating process, then the answer to that one would be "no." Thanks for the tip, Sir.

Nick
I do know a few guys that if they are say loading a 100 rounds they will simply put a box of bullets in a ziplock bag and pour small amount of dry lube in the bag and shake it around a bit. I am sure there are prolly several ways to do this and end up with the same result.
 
I also use Sinclair Mandrels and Forster dies. I like Forster does the most they are the best bang for your buck. I did run into a problem with my 300 win mag and mandrels. My expander die is too small for 300 and it is bottoming out on the die. I have just been short stroking the co ax but I would like an alternative expander die. Will the 21st century die fit the same Sinclair mandrels. They have a longer die.

K&M makes an extender for the sizing mandrel that raises it about an inch or so,and it has a window as well,so you can see your case start on the mandrel.
 
K&M makes an extender for the sizing mandrel that raises it about an inch or so,and it has a window as well,so you can see your case start on the mandrel.
I saw that the other day and my only problem is I bought an expander from Sinclair that was carbide. I don't want to eat that 50 bucks. Im not super loaded and this hobby is expensive. I enjoy loading more than shooting, sounds crazy but it's relaxing.
 
I been doing that for years most big calibers bottom out in the expander die body. After a few u kinda know when it's about to bottom out. Just go slow and don't use a lot of force which u shouldn't need to anyhow if u have some dry lube or even wet lube if that is what u use.
 
I keep it simple.
RCBS FL dies:
RCBS single press:
all the extras from Walmart or amazon.

1) sort new brass by weight
2) de-prime, resize FL, trim if needed
3) confirm weight classes
4) anneal
5) ream case necks to slight bevel
6) prime by RCBS hand primer tool
7) check bullet weight
8) setup my trickler and powder measure
9) throw charge light, trickle the rest
10) seat
11) polish whole cartridge with brasso

repeat all steps other than 1, and 3, for subsequent reloads. I will anneal every time, and I inspect case head, web, and neck for signs of trauma. I do shoulder bump on picky loads but usually I just FL.
 
I saw that the other day and my only problem is I bought an expander from Sinclair that was carbide. I don't want to eat that 50 bucks. Im not super loaded and this hobby is expensive. I enjoy loading more than shooting, sounds crazy but it's relaxing.
I have both Sinclair and K&M,and I use the riser with both.IMO,the riser is just an easy,and inexpensive way to raise your expander die so you don't have to short stroke the ram.
 
Definitely recommend it.

The main reason for doing this is so the primer cup seats evenly & also as the right depth.

Some brass primer holes are also punched which is why deburring the flash hole & then also uniforming the pocket ensures a nice consistent starting point.

Fyi the uniformer does nothing to the sides of the pocket!
Thank you for that.. Much appreciated..
 
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