Oh now peeps be shy! There is no right or wrong here just your process for getting that LR load! Y'all have showed your very personal reloading setups and equipment now show a little of your process!
What is your reloading process from start to bang!
- Thread starter Remmy700
- Start date
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ppoole
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2011
- Messages
- 148
My full process is as follows
New brass (Norma, ADG, Lapua)
1. Debur flash holes
2. Clean primer pockets
3. Measure primer pockets if needed drill out. (I can't see gains from this honestly but would love for someone to tell me they have I might do it more with qualitative data to back it up)
4. Debur and chamfer before running them in die (don't want to scratch die)
5. Fl size Forster
6. Expander mandrel Sinclair
7. Trim, if needed (neck turn if needed)
8. Chamfer and debur again
9. Prime
10. Redding Dry lube case for seating
11. Charge
11. Seat
I do steps 1-8 when I get new brass all brass prep is done at once.
Fired brass
1. Deprime
2. Tumble vibratory
3. Anneal
4. Fl size .0015-.002 bump
5. Mandrel to set neck tension
6. Trim if needed
7. Chamfer debur all cases to clean up
8. Prime
9. Dry lube
10. Charge
11. Seat
New brass (Norma, ADG, Lapua)
1. Debur flash holes
2. Clean primer pockets
3. Measure primer pockets if needed drill out. (I can't see gains from this honestly but would love for someone to tell me they have I might do it more with qualitative data to back it up)
4. Debur and chamfer before running them in die (don't want to scratch die)
5. Fl size Forster
6. Expander mandrel Sinclair
7. Trim, if needed (neck turn if needed)
8. Chamfer and debur again
9. Prime
10. Redding Dry lube case for seating
11. Charge
11. Seat
I do steps 1-8 when I get new brass all brass prep is done at once.
Fired brass
1. Deprime
2. Tumble vibratory
3. Anneal
4. Fl size .0015-.002 bump
5. Mandrel to set neck tension
6. Trim if needed
7. Chamfer debur all cases to clean up
8. Prime
9. Dry lube
10. Charge
11. Seat
Yes sir correct and yes either type of die u prefer
sendero21
Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2013
- Messages
- 21
Use a Lee Neck die and runout is a thing of the past, it's the only neck due on the market which doesn't over work or stress the neck.
This is an I initial load at 100 meters, a168 grain A Max, 308 Win, fire formed and neck sized using a Lee Neck Die. Powder is Swiss Sl 52, at 46.4 Grains. Standard Deviation is less than 6.
Your right there any many ways to skin a Cat, it's such an interesting process.
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Elfego Baca
Well-Known Member
When I am 'experimenting' with a NEW to me cartridge I usually do a batch of cases a step at a time.
Size and deprive.
Prime separately on an old rcbs priming bench tool.
Drop powder from measure into pan.
Check weight put in case.
Seat bullet.
Repeat!
Blackdirt Cowboy
Well-Known Member
Here's my process. I've only been reloading for 4 months, so if I need to change something I'm doing, let me have it.
New Brass
1. Debur flash hole
2. Uniform primer pocket
3. Neck size with Redding bushing die
4. SS tumble to remove lube
5. Measure case length
6. Trim to the shortest length I find
7. Prime
8. Charge
9. Seat bullet
Fired brass
1. Lube
2. Deprime and neck size with Redding bushing die. After 3 to 4 firings, I will full length size as well
3. Stainless steel tumble
4. Trim if needed
5. Anneal if needed
6. Prime
7. Charge
8. Seat bullet
New Brass
1. Debur flash hole
2. Uniform primer pocket
3. Neck size with Redding bushing die
4. SS tumble to remove lube
5. Measure case length
6. Trim to the shortest length I find
7. Prime
8. Charge
9. Seat bullet
Fired brass
1. Lube
2. Deprime and neck size with Redding bushing die. After 3 to 4 firings, I will full length size as well
3. Stainless steel tumble
4. Trim if needed
5. Anneal if needed
6. Prime
7. Charge
8. Seat bullet
Last edited:
Buster Hemlock
Well-Known Member
Remmy, your process and mine are almost identical except I start with a large batch of brass and weight sort and keep the ones that meet my criteria after initial prep is done. I sell off the outliers to some local guys that aren't shooting as far and appreciate uniform brass but don't seem to worry about weight sorting. I also measure case capacity on a few to get an idea what I'm working with. If I find the need to clean the necks I use a nylon brush, nothing abrasive like a brass brush or steel wool as they cause scratches that aren't symmetrical within the neck or case to case and making things as equal and symmetrical is important to me.
Looks solid brother just becareful with that cleaning after u size as u can introduce all kinds of crud to the inside of your die. That is typically why I deprime and clean as first two steps on fired brass.
Tidus56
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2018
- Messages
- 2,056
Why do you dry lube right before you charge and seat? I am just curious as my process is same except that step.
I know a lot of people that do that also. It not only aids in seating pressure consistency but many also say that with neck lube much like small amount of carbon reduces pressure spikes that often occur when ammo sits for awhile and the brass and bullet somewhat bond.
Tidus56
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2018
- Messages
- 2,056
So it fixes cold welding? What dry lube is typically used? I started using HBN to cure cold welding or whatever it's called but would like to have more options to fix it. Just a neck brush and some dry lube? Remmy700 you must be on vacation or something cause you've been busy on the forum lately lol.
I use imperial dry neck lube with application media just quick dip and ready to roll. No sir just trying to contribute to the forum lol.
