What is your reloading process from start to bang!

Remmy700

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So I did bench setup thread, did a what is best reloading equipment u have purchased thread so now for the what is your process thread. So this is two part, starting with new brass and then what is different when using fired brass. So I will start, this is with nib brass:
1. Measure OAL on about 10 pcs and take an average
2. Measure base to shoulder datum line on about 10 pcs
3. I will set die up and bump all shoulders to the shortest datum line measurement.
4. Trim all brass to shortest OAL I found
5. Chamfer and debur
6. Mandrel size with sinclair expander die with sinclair NT mandrel
7. Ream all flash holes and uniform primer pockets
8. Prime, charge and start semi load work to fire form brass and find where I hit max pressure and start kind looking for velocity nodes.
Next is fired brass assuming it's fire formed.
1. Deprime
2. Tumble in rebel 17 SS tumbler
3. Anneal
4. Setup die again now to Bump shoulder .0015
5. Chamfer and debur
6. Mandrel size
7. Prime, charge and verify load that I either have already chosen based on group size/SD numbers or areas I want to explore further. Or if I have not hit pressure and want to keep climbing powder charge. Assuming this is fireformed now your results will start to be tangible and repeatable unlike initial load work when u are fire forming.

I do neck turn for some guns but that is totally dependent on my overall expectations of the rifle. Straight bench gun on paper groups or is this a more tac rig that I am going to be just banging MOA steel at distance. Concerning dies I usually use Whidden or Redding FL bushing dies if I neck turn or FL Forster BR dies if it's non turned either way expander buttons in dies is a no-no in my reloading room!! On the cases I do neck turn I do run steel wool on OD and ID of necks. I am sure I am forgetting something but I know others will chime in with their process. I personally do not put much faith in initial load work on new brass as case volume changes once its fireformed so small amount of tweaking will still be needed but IMHO it will still give u a good idea of velocity in certain nodes along with really good idea of the ceiling where pressure signs start. And again may not be what everyone else does but I always start with bullet at around .015 off lands and do powder charges and then I focus in on fine tuning seating depth when groups are acceptable and SDs are where I find them acceptable. There are a bunch of ways to skin a cat this is just mine, hope this helps. Looking forward to learning from other people's processes! We all want little bitty tiny groups!!
 
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Again don't get to crazy this isn't talking BR/F-class type prep where u are weight sorting brass, primers and Ogive length/weight sorting bullets. This is normal average reloading. We can explore the advanced stuff in another thread. Baby steps!
 
I personally don't like ripping an expander mandrel from bottom to top of case mouth undoing all I just did sizing the neck. It is common physics that the case is much stronger because of the shoulder angle taking pressure pushing down on case vs pulling up in case much like the roof of a house. With a mandrel I can pick what neck tension vs what Forster or Redding etc decided they think it should be. I have talked to many, many experienced reloaders and experienced myself where expander buttons induce runout rather than help to eliminate it.
 
A bit off point, but I want my brass in house prior to getting started on the build. I like to check weight and neck thickness consistency first, then buy a bunch of same lot........Lapua, ADG, or Norma, if possible.

Then I have a good idea on the reamer I want to use. After that is settled, I go ahead and prep the brass, including neck turning if applicable. I will weight sort, box 'em with a label and start the wait on my smith's call that my rifle is ready.

Remmy, you must have a lot of time on your hands, the last couple of weeks, HaHa! At the least, you've been posting good threads.
 
A bit off point, but I want my brass in house prior to getting started on the build. I like to check weight and neck thickness consistency first, then buy a bunch of same lot........Lapua, ADG, or Norma, if possible.

Then I have a good idea on the reamer I want to use. After that is settled, I go ahead and prep the brass, including neck turning if applicable. I will weight sort, box 'em with a label and start the wait on my smith's call that my rifle is ready.

Remmy, you must have a lot of time on your hands, the last couple of weeks, HaHa! At the least, you've been posting good threads.
So u like wiping before u poop? Lol jk brother. That is one way to do it for sure!
 
So you remove the Expander button that comes with the Forster BR Dies?
If so please explain why. I love to learn new stuff. I have only been reloading about 7 years.
I also prefer the Forester FL dies without expander. It will reduce neck ID .004 to .006" under bullet diameter, then use an expander mandrel that's .001, .002, or .003" under bullet OD, to get the neck tension that gives you best accuracy.
 
I also prefer the Forester FL dies without expander. It will reduce neck ID .004 to .006" under bullet diameter, then use an expander mandrel that's .001, .002, or .003" under bullet OD, to get the neck tension that gives you best accuracy.
Yes sir! I like to know my mandrel is doing a little work rather than just sliding right in after FL like everyone's favorite girl in high school!
 
Just make sure u pick the right diameter! I get a little sketched out running less than .002 neck tension on mag feed bolt rifles! Bench guns that are single feed have at it on whatever that particular rifle likes.
 
I also use Sinclair Mandrels and Forster dies. I like Forster does the most they are the best bang for your buck. I did run into a problem with my 300 win mag and mandrels. My expander die is too small for 300 and it is bottoming out on the die. I have just been short stroking the co ax but I would like an alternative expander die. Will the 21st century die fit the same Sinclair mandrels. They have a longer die.
 
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