6.5x300 WBY
Well-Known Member
Best of luck. I love my 2 NF ATACR's. A 7x35x56 and a 5x25x56. Both phenomenal.
Thanks. The short is the only Schmidt I've ever had an issue with.I have one. I don't have a problem with it at all.
I also have a full size S&B PMII 3-20×50 MTC/LT and a 5-20×50US that are fine.
Yes, check out warranty alsoThis is a great budget for finding a scope that will not disappoint. Nightforce, March, S&B, and Kahles come to mind. It is all about personal preference when it comes to reticles, weight, and magnification range IMO. I prefer a wide field of view on bottom end when hunting as well as reasonable weight (under 30 ozs).
Good luck with search.
Thank you for replying! I liked all you had to tell.@Benellijake,
Congratulations to retirement!!
That being said, you are now retired. Meaning you are now on a fixed income. Not like you can work a couple of weeks overtime and make up more money.
Hence why I would recommend Sightron to you.
Especially a "previously loved" Sightron.
2 things that I learned going from hunting to shooting matches and in particular longer range shooting.
1) Magnification!! If you can't see it, you can't hit it!
But as important, is seeing mirage. In my area of central PA, you (at least I) can't see what the mirage is doing until you get to at least 20 power.
2) Clarity! This being the quality of the glass. Yes, absolutely NightForce has excellent glass!
Then again so do others.
And you can sometimes find good glass at a lower price.
Or rather glass that is good enough for your purpose.
If you're attempting to be a National Benchrest shooter, by all means go with the NightForce!
If it's only casual range days, or even a few local matches a year, the Sightron will work just fine.
I'm running a Sightron SIII 10-50X60 LRTD (Long Range Target Dot) with 1/8 MOA adjustments. Picked up used for $750.
Glass is bright and clear. As good as NightForce? No.
But serves it's purpose just fine.
Turrets are tall with clear markings. Adjustments are "tactile" (meaning you can feel and hear them) not sloppy.
Another option, and one that not many people have been looking at, is the Crimson Trace Hardline Pro series.
I stumbled on Crimson Trace when the series 2 and series 5 was being discontinued.
Bought a Series 2 and love it!
Enough so that I now have 4 of their Hardline series now also.
Find one and give it a look through!!
Run the controls!
I think you'll be surprised for it's price point!
Tikka comes up a lot. I will go Tikka in 7mmWhen it comes to this subject, the following advice is oft repeated all over the internet. It is sound advice. I was late to the bandwagon, but after trying about everything else, I have found it to be the easy button - by a long shot.
Get a Tikka, put it in a KRG Bravo or Echo and top it with an SWFA. You'll have $2 k in it with a gen 2 3-15, and it'll likely be a long time before your skill set outgrows your equipment. Tikkas are reliable and aren't finicky. OEM triggers are fantastic. SWFA scopes are rugged and the MQ reticle is easy to learn.
If it's still in the budget, get another Tikka in 1:8 223 and set it up the same.
Among others, I have a SS 1:8 223 Tikka equipped as described above with a KRG Bravo and a 6x SWFA. Set it in the Bravo for quick adjustability for swapping between my kids and I, and to pick up more COAL with the AICS mags. Think I have $1200 in it all up. Thing has been a tack driver with about any ammo I shove in it excect the 88's which do need a 1:7. I don't know how many rounds have been sent downrange wirh this rig, but it's over several thousand. Hitting near and far is a breeze. It's been dropped, dragged, and mistreated about any way a rig could and never a hiccup with loss of zero or dialing.
Thank you for your advise. I like both but I'm going milrad. I love tapping into so much friendly advice and experience.I am NF fan, and I think the ATACR is one of the best. I use 5x25 and 7x35. I need the magnification, but honestly a 5x25x56 will do all you need. NEXT item and an important item is the reticle.
If you are shooting long range, a fine crosshair is better (if you can see it).
Then you need to decide on SFP or FFP. I do not like FFP, but many people love them. With FFP. the reticule shrinks on lower power and enlarges at higher power. I cant see the reticle at low powers..
Then you need to decide on MIL or MOA. I like both, but most of my scopes are MOA.
Then you need to decide what tube diameter (if ATACR it is decided for you as is illumination). Larger tubes let in more light.
I can only add that if you have other questions, contact Doug at Camera land. He will walk you through it. Or you can reach out to me or other members that have answered some of your questions. But the main thing is buy the best you can, you deserve it.
As Elmer Kieth used to say: "More power to you, and I hope your luck holds."I hunt with a 6.5-300 Norma and for 4 years I been shooting out to 800 yards
with a Leupold VX-6 3/18-50 with know trouble for lest money and it doesn't
weight 2-3 lb. and if I did have any problems with the scope I just send it back
to Leupold it has a life time warrantee .
There know luck to it my father used Leupold and I have all was used Leupold scopes.Q
As Elmer Kieth used to say: "More power to you, and I hope your luck holds."
Come to my courseHello Hunters
I'm retiring and would like to get into long range shooting, 1000 yds at most. I load ammo and hunt but have never shot long distance. I have no clue as what scope to get. There are so many options and just as many preferences. I'm not wealthy, however I do believe in getting something good. Buy once cry once makes sense.
Please tell me what has worked for you and what you suggest.
Thanks again
John
That's something I would enjoy doing! It will probably be next spring.Come to my course
I cover it all here