scope leveling

[Rckymtnshooter]

I recently shot a new rifle at 600 yards. Elevation and group size was great but I was 6 inches left. I did not dial for winds as it was a very calm day. Shot again a week later and same 6 inch left impact at 600. Again a very calm day.

Today I worked on leveling the scope. Maybe my mistake was I releveled the scope to the rifle at home before I went to the range for a tall target test. Once at the range I drew plumb 36 inch line, shot a group, dialed 30 moa and another group. Top group was 1.5 inches off the line. Rotated the scope and repeated the test. I got the same results with the group being 1.5 inches off the line. I continued to repeat this scenario and every time I had the same roughly 1.5 inch left of line on the top group. I was rotating the scope enough that it was very obvious i was getting a noticeable cant to the rifle. I'm sure I was adjusting the scope properly bit was not getting the results I should have. Any input would be great. I finished the day by firing a group that was just below .5 so the rifle is capable of good accuracy.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Get one of these...

Badger Ordinance Dead Level - http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ad-level-scope-leveling-device-prod55091.aspx

I've got one and it makes leveling your scope a breeze, once you get the hang of it.

I checked some of my scopes I mounted the old-school dual level method (that I've been using for years), and couldn't believe how off they were, because they never appeared to be off any, minimal at the most.

 

[dok7mm]

Don't know for sure, but if you were rotating the scope in the right direction and still getting the same POI after several changes, it sounds like your problem could be misalignment of your bases/rail in relation to bore. Just a guess. Yours would not be the first action with mounting holes drilled off center or it could be in your bases or rail.

 

[engineer40]

When you say that you "leveled" the scope, does that also mean you installed a bubble level onto the scope? If not, you may be holding the scope/rifle canted a bit when firing without realizing it.

It doesn't make a huge difference if the scope is level to the rifle. For this reason I prefer the bubble levels that are attached to the scope tube, not the rifle or picatinny or rings.

When you "level" a scope you really want to consider 2 things; Will you be dialing your turrets or will you be holding over using the reticle?

It's amazing that even in high end scopes, many times the turrets and reticle are slightly off from each other.

If you're using the reticle to hold over, you'll want to make sure that reticle is perfectly lined up with your plum line. And verify with testing this way.

If you are dialing turrets (which it sounds like you are), you'll want to perform your test shooting just like you described. Just remember that your reticle may be just a tad off of your plum line, but if your shooting verifies that's where your scope turrets track at, then that's where you should leave your scope mounted at.

IMO, the worst method of leveling a scope is the one I often see posted on YT, etc. Where you put 1 level on the top of the scope and another on the rifle somewhere that is flat on the receiver. I have never had this work out to a true level scope. And like I mentioned at the beginning, it doesn't really matter if your scope is level with your rifle. What really matters is if your scope is level with 1) Your reticle or 2) Your turrets when you dial them. And the best way to do that is to attach a bubble level to your scope tube to be able to verify you are holding the "shooting system" the same for every shot while testing.

Hope that makes sense. I'm sure others will have opinions and they may also be correct. It's just what I've noticed works best for me.

 

[Rckymtnshooter]

I ended up rotating the scope both clockwise and counter clockwise. In trying to think through this if the bases were off center but I was shooting at a constant yardage wouldn't I be able to true the scope for that yardage ? I was shooting with a level, that is set right on with the reticle, so every time I shot was with a level reticle. I'm wondering if the scope is tracking internally at a slight angle. In the limited way my brain works that is the only thing I can Come up with that would cause the consistent 1.5 inch shift.

 

[Rckymtnshooter]

Engineer40, I was typing while you were posting. You pretty much confirmed what I think I have going on.

 

[Rckymtnshooter]

I re-leveled the scope to the rifle by leveling off the turret and went out and shot this morning. The scope is now tracking great. The reticle being out of level now is very obvious. I called Leupold and the tech I talked with said there is a certain acceptable level of manufacturing tolerence but that my scope appears to be outside of that tolerence. As much as I hate to it looks like I'll be sending a new scope off for repair. This problem aside I like the scope. Vx6-3-18x42.

 

[engineer40]

If you haven't yet, get yourself something like this:
SWFA SS-TAC 30mm Bubble Level With 1" Inserts | SWFA

It doesn't have to be that same brand. Tons of people make them. But that style that attaches to the scope tube is the kind that you will want.

Those devices are not a gimmick or just something to look Tacticool... They add a lot of consistency to anyone's rifle shooting. I don't like shooting without one anymore.

 

[Rckymtnshooter]

I do have a bubble level on the scope. Thanks for all the advise.

 

[Rancid Crabtree]

Thanks as well. I have bubble levels on my rails but I think I'm going to go with the scope levels. I've always had problems "levelling" everything so now I go outside on the range and I hang a piece of cord with a weight (a plumb bob?) attached to it. I then turn the reticle until it matches the string and with my rifle levelled with the rail bubble. I know the scope is level unless the Earth is screwed up and the rifle is level with the bubble. Shouldn't that work?

 

[engineer40]

Thanks as well. I have bubble levels on my rails but I think I'm going to go with the scope levels. I've always had problems "levelling" everything so now I go outside on the range and I hang a piece of cord with a weight (a plumb bob?) attached to it. I then turn the reticle until it matches the string and with my rifle levelled with the rail bubble. I know the scope is level unless the Earth is screwed up and the rifle is level with the bubble. Shouldn't that work?

If you have a scope tube mounted bubble level like I suggested you only need to coordinate 2 things; the bubble level and the turrets. To test you will need to actually dial your turrets and see if you're tracking along your verticle plum. Verified with shots.

Or if you are holding over using your reticle instead of dialing your turrets the 2 things would be; the bubble level and the reticle.

If you have a pic rail mounted bubble level you need to coordinate 3 things, which makes it significantly more difficult to accomplish and troubleshoot. If the level is on the pic rail, your scope also needs to be level with the rifle.

Some long range shooters will purposely have their rifle canted because that's the most comfortable to the way they hold it, or maybe the way the stock fits to their shoulders. Even though the rifle is canted when they shoot, their scopes are level because that is what matters for true scope tracking.

Another benefit of having the scope tube mounted style of level is it's way easier to move the scope around to a different rifle if desired. Really once the bubble level is accurately secured to the scope; moving the scope to a new rifle has no additional effort involved. The level stays on the scope and everything stays just how you had it set up.

Hope that all makes sense.