I had a Savage Precision Elite in .338 Lapua and could not get it to shoot,traded it off and got another Savage Precision this time.........................24" barrel vs. 30" a lot liter. I was having trouble getting it to shoot,then did the smart thing.........despite being so called blue printed it had 2 flaws,first the rear action screw was too long and was binding the action a little,then I watched the rear tang while tightening, it would move down,so I shimmed it with a pepsi can cut to position,it worked perfect, Now the barrel heats up fast about 3-4 shots and groups suffer. Was shooting Hornady's 300 ATIP with 105.5 LRT. Decided to see what twist was in it, I have done the very tight barrel twist patch with marks, brass brush method and lose type, All came up the same measurement...............................1 in 8.5???????????????????????????????? Pete
Savage Precision .338 Lapua
- Thread starter Hard Head
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I believe mine was a 9 from the factory
Shane Lindsey
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"The rear tang moved down while tightening ", as into the stock? Isn't that what it is supposed to do?
Mine came with a washer inserted into the rear action screw on the HS Precision FCP
Mine came with a washer inserted into the rear action screw on the HS Precision FCP
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
That is what Savage has listed. 1.9
No every stoch maker will tell yo that there should be no free play, if there is you are binding the action from front to rear,you change your whole barrel and action dynamic's. The head stock maker that I spent avery large sum of money on said.............,when you drop your barreled action in a stock when it ts not wood or composite give 3 turns front ,3 turns back so on and so forth till it is tight,then torque to the makers request,if it is not binding in the middle the rear tang will settle and not move,if the is no bonding the the rear tang is too low,on has to remember these are not hand made per say and actions and stocks are all a little off. The best way is to steel bed them,but only if the rifle shows a lot of promise. I have checked this twist at least 8 times and it comes up 8.5 for 1 revaluation and 17.0 for 2, Pete
That was a pinger problem along with the thinking hat !! It was 101.5 LRT not 105.5. And every one of the stock makers said no movement. Set barreled action in put front screw in and rear screw in take up slack and then begin to tighten first front then rear a little at a time and then when you are close, torque front and watch rear as you torque it should be no movement. Pete
Shane Lindsey
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Are torqueing per Savage specs?
I torque 60 front, 40 rear for a stock with pillars/bedding block.
I torque 60 front, 40 rear for a stock with pillars/bedding block.
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No Customer Service told me 60# front 60# rear, Pete
What bullet did you try and which Savage?
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Factory Rifle Roulette, Savage Style
Button rifled barrel is faster twist than spec and probably has inconsistent bore diameter to boot, no shocker there.
Stock inletting (and bedding, if it's even there) that is basically a rough out.
God only knows what's going on in the two sets of threads holding the barrel on or if the nut is any semblance of torqued correctly. Dissimilar heating of the nut, action, and barrel plus gorilla-torque could be doing something.
Not that I'm knocking on Savage, I bought a 112 Magnum Target in 338 Lapua that shot so well I bought a second.... which is currently getting a new barrel put on and the factory bedding milled out. You win some, you lose some. The OG slings 300gn OTMs like it was blessed by Brian Litz himself.
Mine is actually a Rem 700. I tried LRT with 250 and 300 SMKs. Got good speed just wouldn't group. My post was meant more for the load than for what gun. Always heard good about the Savage 338s.
