hi all. I have a Ruger m77 mark ii, it's a 270win. I have had load inconsistencies issues with it. One time I shot a load with 150g Berger's shot 3 all touching next time it shot them two inches. Tried some 110 Barnes tttsx with two different powder and primers shot both powders with fed215m primers 1/2moa or so then the next time they were shooting 1.5-2". This is all shooting of bipod and rear bag. My father-in-law gave me the gun he said with factory ammo he would have some inconsistencies too. He figured it was good enough for me in the woods were I was hunting when I started. Anyways I'm reloading now and advanced a lot since he gave me the rifle. I took it and sanded the barrel contact point out free floated the barrel. Then I just mixed up some jb weld and sprayed all my stuff down with Accra release twice degreased it twice. I sanded the recoil lug area and the area around it were the action sits. Then i also bedded the little pad in the back were the rear action screw is. I put the screws back in the action loosely not tight then put a couple wraps of electrical tape around the stock and action and left it. Do you think I bedded enough? Or should I have done the sides too?
Ruger m77 Markii?s
- Thread starter zr600
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Overkill338
Well-Known Member
Did you start with a clean barrel? Did you let it cool completely between shots? How much space do you have on your "float" ? Is the weight of the rifle, making the stock lightly touch the barrel, from sitting on the bipod? Are you consistent with the way you hold your cheek against the stock? Stock trigger or AM ? Have you made sure the scope rings are tight on the action, AND the ring cap screws are all tight. If you don't find any loose, I would first try a different scope. Scopes do fail sometimes, even expensive ones. If it does it with a different scope, have the barrel checked (got a bore scope?), it may just be "shot out".
Anyway, hope this helps. You left this wide open without all the information.
Last thing I will say, is most of the Ruger M77 MkII's I've dealt with, like the pressure point. I do like the MKII's
Anyway, hope this helps. You left this wide open without all the information.
Last thing I will say, is most of the Ruger M77 MkII's I've dealt with, like the pressure point. I do like the MKII's
It is the factory trigger gun was touching on the very tip but it was like that from the factory. The rings were tight checked that and action screws. I do have a note scope and the barrel isn't shot out. Hasn't really been shot that much, my father in-law bought it new. I was letting the barrel cool the same every time I was shooting groups.
Hespco
Well-Known Member
The problem you are having is exactly what three other shooters came to me for. in all instances it was that the factory scope rings were not holding the scope even though the rings appeared tight.. Some times they would shoot two or three shots almost touching then shoot two inches out. Constantly chasing shots & readjusting the scope. In all cases the problems were solved on all three rifles by replacing the factory scope rings with different rings. Burris has adapters that attach to the Ruger rifle that take conventional rings. Rings like the Burris Signature Zee rings work great. Leoupld also makes rings that attach directly to the Ruger rifle.. Ruger has become sloppy with their rings. I find them out of round so far that to lap them in means they end up to big. Also have found them where they are bigger at on end than the other. Years ago never had these problems.
Overkill338
Well-Known Member
I thought you sanded the pressure point down before shooting and bedding?
What I was saying, is the bipod may be work as a lever. As the recoil goes back, the bipod doesnt just go reward, it tries to bend the end of the stock up. Think of the bipod riding on an arc.
Set the gun on the recoil pad in front of you. Open the bipod. Then lightly push forward on the legs (not enough to close it) and see if the end of the stock flexes up.
What I was saying, is the bipod may be work as a lever. As the recoil goes back, the bipod doesnt just go reward, it tries to bend the end of the stock up. Think of the bipod riding on an arc.
Set the gun on the recoil pad in front of you. Open the bipod. Then lightly push forward on the legs (not enough to close it) and see if the end of the stock flexes up.
Overkill338
Well-Known Member
If it had the pressure point while you were getting two groups, then make sure it is floated well. Two of my MKII'S (300 & 338) shot better in Hogue stocks with floated barrels.
elkaholic
Well-Known Member
I worked on a 300 saum for a friend one time that wouldnt shoot and floating the barrel didnt really help even though that is often the problem. I finally pillar bedded the lug and it would shoot 1/2 moa with a pencil barrel.
codyadams
Well-Known Member
The flat bottom actions like mausers, enfields, springfields, rugers, etc. Generally react very well to pillar bedding. I have bedded a few rugers, 7 or 8, have only had one I couldn't get to shoot under 3/4 MOA with the factory barrel, and most shot better. I did bed the entire action with devcon, but front and rear action screw bedding is better than nothing. Go through all your basic checks, and with a floated barrel and bedded action go shoot it and see how it does.
The one that just wouldn't shoot consistently with any ammo recently got a barrel change, it now wears a 24" #5 Bartlien and I'm excited to start playing with that one. My dads .264 wm with a krieger is a nail driver too, love this gun. If you zoom in, you can see the burris adapter and see rings hespco was talking about. The best option is to have the reciever drilled and tapped and just run a rail, but this is the second best non gunsmith option IMO.
Here are a few of the ruger beddings I have done. All these have been tack drivers.
The one that just wouldn't shoot consistently with any ammo recently got a barrel change, it now wears a 24" #5 Bartlien and I'm excited to start playing with that one. My dads .264 wm with a krieger is a nail driver too, love this gun. If you zoom in, you can see the burris adapter and see rings hespco was talking about. The best option is to have the reciever drilled and tapped and just run a rail, but this is the second best non gunsmith option IMO.
Here are a few of the ruger beddings I have done. All these have been tack drivers.
Overkill338
Well-Known Member
My four are .264 Win Mag, 7mm Rem Mag, .300 Win Mag and .338 Win Mag. The 7mm was bedded and it didn't shoot any better than the others. In fact, I never got it under 1.5". The 300 shoots 1/2" if I do my part, and the .338 is 3/4". They both wear Hogue Stocks with floated barrels. M77's can be finicky.
I would still get the barrel bore scoped if you find no problems in the mounts and rings. It may have imperfections in the rifling. Wouldn't be the first time!
adk hunter
Well-Known Member
I too went thru this... We FULL length bedded everything and it was a one hole wonder. Gun was a .308 featherweight and loved anything 180gr. I got the b/c stock from cabela's. The stock ended up warping in the wrist area and they wouldn't make good on it...I put it back in the wood stock. Shoots ok when it gets picked up.
