Overkill338
Well-Known Member
Well, also, in the Boat Paddle years, the 7mm Rem Mag, for whatever unanswered reason, Ruger put a smaller contour barrel on the 7mm Rem Mag. My .264 Win Mag, .300 Win Mag, and .338 Win Mag, all had the same barrel.
Ruger m77 Markii?s
- Thread starter zr600
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Shane Lindsey
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 13, 2010
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What is your trigger break? Heavy triggers can cause inconsistent shooting.
I had a Mark II in 30-06 that had a really stiff trigger.
I have a Tang Safety that sports a Rifle Basics sear that is about 2# and it is scary accurate.
I had a Mark II in 30-06 that had a really stiff trigger.
I have a Tang Safety that sports a Rifle Basics sear that is about 2# and it is scary accurate.
Shane Lindsey
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- Joined
- Jul 13, 2010
- Messages
- 3,346
I honestly would start there. Mine gave me fits until I got the Rifle Basix installed. Not sure what is avaiable for the Mark II. Timney made one for the Tanger, but didn't like the installation so sent it back.
Just like a Glock trigger, heavy break makes it hard not to "nut" the trigger squeeze.
Overkill338
Well-Known Member
I went with the Rifle Basix, but I reccomend the Timney for the MkII. The Timney comes with a new sear, the Rifle Basix does not.
As far as Glock triggers, not sure what you mean. Mine are all great, I've been tuning Glock triggers for 15 years. On my Gen5, I just polished everything and added a Tango Down flat face trigger. Its Its amazzzzing now.
Rhino Hunter
Well-Known Member
I have multiple Rugers and all their triggers range from 4.5 - 7 pounds out of the box! Their attorneys install them. Lol.
I would highly recommend a trigger job before anything else.
Good luck!
mtwarych
Well-Known Member
I have a Ruger Hawkeye that was giving me fits, so much so that I basically gave up on it.
It was apparent that the original walnut stock had warped and I purchased a new Boyds stock to fix the rifles suddenly poor accuracy.
I did the same bedding job and trigger work as is in this thread. The rifle still shot poorly no matter what I tried. The rifle from the factory would shoot right about MOA with commercial ammo and sub MOA with reloads. I even tried rebuilding the front of the stock to once again put pressure on the barrel. Nothing worked.
A while back a forum member started a thread about how he refinished his stock on his M77 and the rifle was no longer accurate.
In that thread everyone was supplying good advice as what to check and look for. A couple of the posts in that thread were advising that the Ruger M77 were touchy when it came to the mounting screws and how tight they were.
I decided to buy a torque driver and give it a try and believe it or not, my Ruger Hawkeye chambered in 257 Roberts is once again shooting sub MOA.
I suggest finding that thread and maybe read it over and see if there are some nuggets of wisdom in there that may help you out.
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/refinished-my-stock-now-rifle-wont-shoot-right.224687/
As a matter of fact, my lug needed 65inchlbs of torque, my trigger guard is just touch tight with thread locker and my rear screw is at 45 inchlbs torque.
The proper torque made all the difference with my rifle.
It was apparent that the original walnut stock had warped and I purchased a new Boyds stock to fix the rifles suddenly poor accuracy.
I did the same bedding job and trigger work as is in this thread. The rifle still shot poorly no matter what I tried. The rifle from the factory would shoot right about MOA with commercial ammo and sub MOA with reloads. I even tried rebuilding the front of the stock to once again put pressure on the barrel. Nothing worked.
A while back a forum member started a thread about how he refinished his stock on his M77 and the rifle was no longer accurate.
In that thread everyone was supplying good advice as what to check and look for. A couple of the posts in that thread were advising that the Ruger M77 were touchy when it came to the mounting screws and how tight they were.
I decided to buy a torque driver and give it a try and believe it or not, my Ruger Hawkeye chambered in 257 Roberts is once again shooting sub MOA.
I suggest finding that thread and maybe read it over and see if there are some nuggets of wisdom in there that may help you out.
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/refinished-my-stock-now-rifle-wont-shoot-right.224687/
As a matter of fact, my lug needed 65inchlbs of torque, my trigger guard is just touch tight with thread locker and my rear screw is at 45 inchlbs torque.
The proper torque made all the difference with my rifle.
Last edited:
codyadams
Well-Known Member
Ruger recommends something ridiculous like 90 in-lbs on their front screw, after pillar bedding I torque as tight as I can in the flat head screws, usually around 70 in-lbs, and the hex head screws about the same, it's just easier. The rear around 50, the middle one just snug and ensure the mag box isn't bound up. If you do this, with a proper bed job, floated barrel, decent trigger, good scope/mounts, and it still doesn't shoot well....likely either the crown needs redone or barrel needs replaced, because everything else is squared away
Overkill338
Well-Known Member
Hex head screws? All my Rugers have had only flat head screws.
codyadams
Well-Known Member
They put some on the newer ones, and also for a couple rifles I ordered some hex head screws from brownells because getting the flat heads torqued that tight can be a PITA.
Overkill338
Well-Known Member
You said that right! I found a "Winchester Gunsmith Screwdriver Set" at Walmart. It had some extra thick flat bits that work perfectly.
