Redding s type die advice

[Ts3]

When I ordered my GAP nontypical in 30 Nosler, I also ordered a set of Redding type S match neck dies. Now a year later I have the rifle and am ready to work up a load. Should I exchange this 3 die set for the 2 die FL size set?

I have been reloading for about ten years and for a dozen cartridges. Typical RCBS full length, die to shell holder and cam over by the instructions, etc. I read so many times to neck size only, with occasion shoulder bump, to improve precision and increase case life. So when I spent good money on my first high-end rifle, I bought what I thought would be best to give me the best loads. I have read a lot since then and it seems that neck sizing is probably not best at all, and especially for a hunting rifle. The best 5-round group I have gotten with factory Nosler ammo is 0.75" at 100 yds. Only 55 rounds total at this point. I honestly expected better from this rifle. Hoping hand loads with the 181 gr hammers I just ordered will be better. I guess I could neck size and then use the body die to bump the shoulder every time? Better to just go to the full length set?

 

[Nimrodmar10]

It just depends on how much care you want to take with your reloading . On my precision rifles, I use the Redding ztype S Bushing Neck Size Die and the Redding Body Die. I also get a full length die in case I need to full length size for some reason and don't want to run the cases through 2 types of sizing dies. With the bushing N/S die, I can use the correct size bushing to latch the neck thickness of the brass I use. It also sets the neck tension that I want for each load.
So, my advise is to buy both types of die

 

[SealT5]

Congrats on the new rifle.

Since you already have the 3 die set do this. After barrel break in find an accurate load. Now neck size only a batch of brass. Next take another batch of brass and size using the body die then the neck. See for yourself is there is a noticeable difference in FL vs Neck for your particular rifle. My bet is you'll be just happy with the FL batch and want to purchase the die to save a step in your reloading process. Me personally I'll never run the risk of a round not chambering while in the field or even range for that matter. Redding FL Type S dies have served me very well over the years. I've never had a rifle not achieve .25" moa.

Share some pictures of the new addition! Goodluck .

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

if its a Redding #: 38817
the 3 dies set comes with a body die , for just that reason . id run what you have , until you see problems

 

[Ts3]

So I guess I don't lose anything but time and effort to use the body and neck die every time. I don't mind really.
Yes, #38817
What do you mean by: "until you see problems"? Hoping to not have those!

 

[Ts3]

Thought you'd never ask

 

[Ts3]

I just measured the necks of that loaded nosler ammo. Ranged .340-.341". What size bushing do I need?

 

[Crunchy]

.339 or little tighter at .338 both would be a safe bet. I would go 339

 

[elf]

If you want the best possible die, have your smith run his reamer into die blank same time you have the new barrel chambered. Perfect fit.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

id go a little tighter 337 338 - shipping will be the same if you get 1 or 5 , id get the tightest one you think you'll never need , rather than waiting plus paying shipping again

the problems are self inflicted , i make everything difficult ,, i prefer the neck 3 die set over the fl 2 die set

if you drop the body die on a Redding comp shell holder every time then neck size , you should never see any problems

 

[Ts3]

I went ahead and ordered 338 and 339. I'll give this setup a go. I also ordered a Wilson trimmer to replace my RCBS. The last few times I used it, it seemed to slip, trimming cases shorter and shorter.

 

[RegionRat]

Let us assume you are going to target a 0.002" diameter reduction for grip on the necks.
If you measured .340 then your goal is 0.340 - 0.002 = 0.338
If you measured .341 then your goal is 0.341 - 0.002 = 0.339

Grip diameter for neck tension is a parameter that isn't set in stone, it needs to be developed by experimentation. If it were me, I would order each bushing from 0.336 to 0.339 just to be able to cover a batch of brass that needs trimming or one that comes in fat. You may settle on one quickly and never touch the others again, or you may find the need to move up or down one depending on the anneal state of the cases. I don't run the expander ball in the dies any more, but sometimes I use the expander mandrel to condition the necks after trimming and chamfering. I also ordered precision ground expander mandrels in fine increments to have my contingencies ready.

As for controlling the shoulder datum and sizing, my advice is to play it safe as a baseline and minimally bump with the body die every time. Yes, you can get away with neck sizing to a degree, but sooner or later the cases will be difficult to chamber or extract. If you can tolerate an experiment, see if one that is sized down more than necessary groups differently than ones that are just bumped or neck only. You will likely find there isn't any significant difference. If that is the finding, you would always bump the shoulders for reliable feeding and extraction. YMMV

BTW, is that 30 Nosler brass really that thick? I mean (0.341 - 0.3085)/2= 0.0163 thick neck walls? My 30 cal no-turn neck chambers are 0.340 diameter. I didn't realize the Nosler brass was that thick.

 

[Ts3]

I guess so. Just measured several more. All .340-.341.
I was planning for .001" or .002" reduction.

 

[FURMAN]

Run a .338 and be done with it. If after exhausting all other options your rifle will not shoot then and only then would I suggest changing bushings. Never, I repeat never have I not been able to get a load to shooting well under .5 moa with a magnum cartridge using Federal 215ms, an appropriate powder, a heavy for caliber Berger bullet, and .002 neck tension. If you take the advise of some you will have a burnt out barrel by the time you have found the perfect bushing, the perfect primer, the perfect bullet, the perfect powder. Pick the components you want to shoot. Pick a bushing I suggest .338 and stick with it until it will not shoot. Once you find the load go learn to shoot this rifle. Do not waste barrel life testing everything. Some things just are not worth it.