Question about Bases

[BitterrootBob]

I am working on a .260 Remington. The ballistics table says I need 25.5 MOA for 1000 yards. I am adding a Vortex Viper that says it has 75 MOA of elevation adjustment. The longest range close by my home is 1200 yards. Using 1200 yards as a max range and using a 100 yard zero, what if any slope would you order on a base?

I would think if I get too much slope, I wouldn't be able to zero at 100. Maybe I am wrong in that thinking. This is my first long range rifle, so I'm not sure.

 

[J E Custom]

I am working on a .260 Remington. The ballistics table says I need 25.5 MOA for 1000 yards. I am adding a Vortex Viper that says it has 75 MOA of elevation adjustment. The longest range close by my home is 1200 yards. Using 1200 yards as a max range and using a 100 yard zero, what if any slope would you order on a base?

I would think if I get too much slope, I wouldn't be able to zero at 100. Maybe I am wrong in that thinking. This is my first long range rifle, so I'm not sure.

You are right about if you get to much MOA bases, you will not be able to get a 100 yard zero.

What you are looking for is a base that will keep you in your desired range and in the middle of the scopes range.

If it is a dedicated 1000 yard rifle and will never be used less than 600 yards then I would
recomend a 15 or 20 MOA base. if you want to shoot 100 to 1200 yards you will need a 10
MOA base. beyond that you will need a 20 to 30 MOA base

Look at your drop chart and after adding a 10 MOA base verify that it will be within the range
of your scope and load.

10 MOA will increase the elevation of your scope to 85 and 10 above normal.(you still have
75 MOA it is just 10 MOA higher).

Scopes are most accurate in the middle of there range (say, 20 to 55 on yours).

J E CUSTOM

 

[BitterrootBob]

You are right about if you get to much MOA bases, you will not be able to get a 100 yard zero.

What you are looking for is a base that will keep you in your desired range and in the middle of the scopes range.

If it is a dedicated 1000 yard rifle and will never be used less than 600 yards then I would
recomend a 15 or 20 MOA base. if you want to shoot 100 to 1200 yards you will need a 10
MOA base. beyond that you will need a 20 to 30 MOA base

Look at your drop chart and after adding a 10 MOA base verify that it will be within the range
of your scope and load.

10 MOA will increase the elevation of your scope to 85 and 10 above normal.(you still have
75 MOA it is just 10 MOA higher).

Scopes are most accurate in the middle of there range (say, 20 to 55 on yours).

J E CUSTOM

Thanks!!! That is the exact kind of information/conformation I was looking for. This scope also has the XLR reticle in MOA which gives me the ability to use the reticle as well.

 

[Broz]

I have installed a few PST's and lets be safe and count on 70 usable MOA of total elevation.

In a perfect world, with spot on machining of both the rail and receiver top, with a zero cant rail you would have 35 moa up. With a 10 moa canted rail 45 moa up, 20 moa rail 55 moa up. 30 moa rail 65 moa up. If you push the limit of 1/2 your scopes total elevation (35) you could acquire a problem with 100 yards zero or being to close to bottomed out. So I feel you will be best served with a 20 moa rail. This will allow easy 100 yards zero, a good distance from bottoming the scope out at zero, and you should have 55 moa of dial up for long shots.

Please understand that if you purchase a low end rail mount for $30 or $40 none of this is a given as you not end up with the desired moa of cant you ordered. I have seen it over and over. I good scope mounting system is not a place to skimp.

Jeff

 

[Rimfire]

I have installed a few PST's and lets be safe and count on 70 usable MOA of total elevation.

In a perfect world, with spot on machining of both the rail and receiver top, with a zero cant rail you would have 35 moa up. With a 10 moa canted rail 45 moa up, 20 moa rail 55 moa up. 30 moa rail 65 moa up. If you push the limit of 1/2 your scopes total elevation (35) you could acquire a problem with 100 yards zero or being to close to bottomed out. So I feel you will be best served with a 20 moa rail. This will allow easy 100 yards zero, a good distance from bottoming the scope out at zero, and you should have 55 moa of dial up for long shots.

Please understand that if you purchase a low end rail mount for $30 or $40 none of this is a given as you not end up with the desired moa of cant you ordered. I have seen it over and over. I good scope mounting system is not a place to skimp.

Jeff

+1...

 

[MudRunner2005]

To 0 at 100 yards, I have to shoot 4 Mils low with my 5R .308, b/c I ordered a 20MOA base for it. However, my 0 should be dead-on at 575 yards. And I should be able to hit out to 750 without ever having to dope at all. It ****ed me off at first that after buildng my perfect 1000 yard setup, that I couldn't get a friggin 0 at 100....However, after shooting it like that alot, I have learned to like it, b/c like I said, I am good out to 750 without doping at all, other than for windage.

 

[BitterrootBob]

I have installed a few PST's and lets be safe and count on 70 usable MOA of total elevation.

In a perfect world, with spot on machining of both the rail and receiver top, with a zero cant rail you would have 35 moa up. With a 10 moa canted rail 45 moa up, 20 moa rail 55 moa up. 30 moa rail 65 moa up. If you push the limit of 1/2 your scopes total elevation (35) you could acquire a problem with 100 yards zero or being to close to bottomed out. So I feel you will be best served with a 20 moa rail. This will allow easy 100 yards zero, a good distance from bottoming the scope out at zero, and you should have 55 moa of dial up for long shots.

Please understand that if you purchase a low end rail mount for $30 or $40 none of this is a given as you not end up with the desired moa of cant you ordered. I have seen it over and over. I good scope mounting system is not a place to skimp.

Jeff

Thanks for the information! I don't plan on skimping on the base or rings. I was thinking of getting the base from Murphy Precision. I have a stainless action and want a stainless (silver colored) base. Silver colored bases are hard to find. I suppose I could bead blast most any base, though. I am open to suggestions for bases and rings. The Near bases seem to have a good reputation but, WOW, the cost is up there. Like I said, I have not made any decision on a base or rings and will listen to suggestions.

 

[Broz]

Thanks for the information! I don't plan on skimping on the base or rings. I was thinking of getting the base from Murphy Precision. I have a stainless action and want a stainless (silver colored) base. Silver colored bases are hard to find. I suppose I could bead blast most any base, though. I am open to suggestions for bases and rings. The Near bases seem to have a good reputation but, WOW, the cost is up there. Like I said, I have not made any decision on a base or rings and will listen to suggestions.

My 300 win does wear a Near ultra lite base. It is indeed silver. I feel the extra $ was spent in a good place.

 

[R.Morehouse]

Ken Farrell inc. Look it up and give them a call to get exactly what you need for your set-up.

 

[BitterrootBob]

Are those Near rings as well?

Any thoughts on the Near one piece AlphaHunter?

 

[Broz]

Are those Near rings as well?

No Sir, they are Nightforce Ultra Lites.

Jeff

 

[WildRose]

I am working on a .260 Remington. The ballistics table says I need 25.5 MOA for 1000 yards. I am adding a Vortex Viper that says it has 75 MOA of elevation adjustment. The longest range close by my home is 1200 yards. Using 1200 yards as a max range and using a 100 yard zero, what if any slope would you order on a base?

I would think if I get too much slope, I wouldn't be able to zero at 100. Maybe I am wrong in that thinking. This is my first long range rifle, so I'm not sure.

A 0-10Moa base is all you need to 1,000 and the 10 will get you to 1200. You also have 5 mils additional with your MRAD reticle or 20 MOA with the MOA reticle I believe.

 

[BitterrootBob]

A 0-10Moa base is all you need to 1,000 and the 10 will get you to 1200. You also have 5 mils additional with your MRAD reticle or 20 MOA with the MOA reticle I believe.

WildRose to the rescue again, LOL. Seriously, thanks. I have the rifle (You know the one) in getting a trigger and pillar bedded now. So, I'm getting close to taking it out for the first time.

I bought one of the Zeiss Conquest 4.5-14X50 AO MO with target turrets from Camera Land when they had them on sale for $600 shipped. I couldn't resist selling it, though, to make some money. By the time I sold it, the sale at Camera Land was over. Made a quick $150 profit selling it, though.

I got an equally smoking deal on the Vortex scope, though. I hope I like it as well as the Zeiss. I see some real advantages to the Vortex as long as the glass is anywhere close to the quality/clarity of the Zeiss.

This gun stuff it going nuts. Check this out: LINK...and one sold last week for $500+ with shipping. I've seen several used Co-Ax presses go for $300-$450. Freaking crazy. I've been trying to purchase a Forster Co-Ax press but I'm not insane or that desperate.

I started adding a Starrett Micrometer head to the Wilson Case Trimmer and have been selling them on eBay. I think I've sold a half dozen, or so, in the last week. Now, I find out LE Wilson discontinued their carbon steel model and are only making the stainless model. I wish I would have known, I would have bought everyone of the old style I could find.

I'll send you some photos once the 260 Remington is complete. Thanks for all your help WildRose!!! It has been appreciated.