Pillar bedding tubberware stock

Hello Namibguy
I agree with what they suggest in previous messages, but I recommend that you skim and pillar bedding. Also, that you stiffen the forearm using epoxy plus the addition of some other element, but we will see it in detail.
The first thing is to get the pillars. I give you a picture and a scheme with measurements, so you can do it yourself, or go to a workshop where they can turn these two pieces of aluminum. As you will see, they are simple and easy to do. These are the ones I've used on other Rem700s I've tuned with excellent results.
I tell you how I would do the whole job, knowing that there are other ways to do it, and that this is not the only one, but that it has given me excelent results.
Assuming you already have the pillars, the steps, roughly, would be the following: (we can see later how to do each step in detail).
1) Skim bed the action including the recoil lug. This step will allow the action to be well located and focused on the stock. That is, you do not change heights or change the location of screws or anything unusual. You simply remove some material from the stock, so that you achieve a suitable epoxy thickness.
With this, we know that the action will always be located in the same factory location, without changing heights, angles, or rotating it.
You do not need to do the full action bedding in this step, it is enough that the two areas of the action screws are done. Then you can complete all the action if you want.
If you want to do the complete bedding in one step, the better.

2) Place the pillars. You are simply looking for a drill bit with a diameter greater than the pillar, so that there is a good amount of epoxy between it and the stock.
Here is a very important step, which is to fix the pillars to the action with a threaded rod and tightened to it with a nut. This assures us that they are perfectly square and making firm contact. You put epoxy on both the pillars and the hole made in the action, and you present barreled action in place.
To adjust, you only need to tighten with tightly adjusted elastic bands. Remember that the skim bed we made before will not allow the action to move or change position.

3) Complete the skim bedding if you did not complete it in the previous step.

4) Stiffen the forearm: you simply fill the empty cells it presents with epoxy. You can drill between cells, so that the epoxy unifies them.
This is a good time to place picatinny rails, or QD cups, etc., so the through bolts are embedded in the epoxy.

With this simple job, you are going to get the most out of your plastic stock.
With the right load, and doing your part as a shooter, you will be sub-moa for sure.
I hope my suggestions serve you.
Best regards
V

DRILL-BIT.jpegfinal.jpegfinal2.jpegLUG1.jpgLUG2.jpgMEASUREMENTS.jpg

PS: There are photos of work done in Rem700 and Tikka, but they serve so that you can see the process.
 

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Im buying my first rifle a 223 rem 700 and i do not have the funds to buy a new stock and probably wont for quite a while. I don't live in the US so even boyds stocks can get quite expensive. I was just wanted to know what you guyd would think about the idea of drilling a hole through a threaded rod and then heating it up(assuming i can keep it hot for long enough) and threading into the polymer stock to make the pillars since epoxy doesn't like sticking to those stocks. I just wanted to ask before potentially ruining a stock cant really replace at the moment.
Leave it alone is my advice... should shoot well enough being a 223
 
I've never tried this, but you could get a fine thread tap that would barely cut threads in the screw holes. That would insure that the epoxy would not slip in the hole.
 
NamibGuy,
my advice is the same as more than a few guys. try it first.. now here is where it gets tricky if you have to pillar bed, if you have access to a couple of pillars then put grooves in them, then get a course metric or SAE BOTTOM tap for threading, tap the hole from both sides leaving the center 1/4"/6MM unthreaded. then pillar bed as usual. learned this from having to pillar more than a few Savage, Remington and Winchester plastic stocks. good luck, I hope you do not have to pillar bed it.
 
Shoot first and see how it shoots. My only lost point of aim came after it got hot on a 100 plus degree day. Then I routed out forearm 1/2" square groove from 1/4" back from front of forearm to very near recoil lug area and glued with JB Weld 3/8 ths square bar steel in. Drilled for sling mount at front and also drilled hole in 3/8 ths bar near recoil lug area and installed recessed screw. Then install pillars and bedded action.
Once I got it perfect and point of impact never changed! I bought a custom laminated bench style rough cut stock and made a beauty. Good Luck.
 
Leave it alone is my advice... should shoot well enough being a 223
Leave it alone and shoot first on a bench with a forend bag if the stock flexes at the bipod mount and a rear end pillow bag. I'd put a scope on it and see what groups you're getting. If it needs action bedding and/or pillars, then follow the many good tips above. Plus YouTube. I've used two-part JB Weld and it really adheres! An A+ epoxy. I would never try melting a pillar job.
 
How much do ypu estimate is that small amount, are there any hardware store items i can use to do it my self instead of buying pillars?
Menards and hardware stores have electrical or plumbing nipples a couple inches long that work quite well for this, they come in brass as well.
 
NamibGuy,
my advice is the same as more than a few guys. try it first.. now here is where it gets tricky if you have to pillar bed, if you have access to a couple of pillars then put grooves in them, then get a course metric or SAE BOTTOM tap for threading, tap the hole from both sides leaving the center 1/4"/6MM unthreaded. then pillar bed as usual. learned this from having to pillar more than a few Savage, Remington and Winchester plastic stocks. good luck, I hope you do not have to pillar bed it.
I am curious to know what you achieve by threading inside the Pillar. Are you able to better focus the pillar regarding the action ?. Interesting what you say. Can you deepen the concept?
Thanks
V
 
I have a friend with drill press and a vice thought that might work for straight holes.

Usually with pillars you want the inside hole concentric with the outside plus some clearance, about 1/16th of an inch, so that any misalignment can be taken up with the clearance around the screws. I strongly suggest that the holes be put in the middle of the pillar with a lathe to maintain concentricity. If you bought the "adjustable pillars" from Brownells it would save you a lot of time and aggravation when they are set into the stock. I think it's important to remember that this is being done to improve the accuracy of the rifle, and.....it ought to be done as precise as possible so as not to create any further issues down the road. I can tell you that I have done quite a few pillar bedding jobs, and.....would never attempt to do the job that you have asked about in the manner that you have stated.
 
not trying to be ugly but I don't think you should try the pillar bedding yet not saying you cant do it but if you screw up your stock you are screwed I learned to do it on old take off stocks were it did not matter if I screwed the pooch I believe your best bet is just do a standard bedding job watch videos on it until you feel comfortable then get after it if it gets screwed up you can sand it out and go again no harm no foul good luck
 
Im buying my first rifle a 223 rem 700 and i do not have the funds to buy a new stock and probably wont for quite a while. I don't live in the US so even boyds stocks can get quite expensive. I was just wanted to know what you guyd would think about the idea of drilling a hole through a threaded rod and then heating it up(assuming i can keep it hot for long enough) and threading into the polymer stock to make the pillars since epoxy doesn't like sticking to those stocks. I just wanted to ask before potentially ruining a stock cant really replace at the moment.
I would contact Remington directly on this matter as they would know the exact chemistry to determine any thermal issues
 
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